PowerTek Power Controller RL-1009

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Mtn.Mike

Active member
Joined
Apr 15, 2011
Posts
38
The above unit provides A/C power to my hot water tank. It's turned on via the 12v switch on my control panel
The unit burned out and I understand that they no longer make it.
Does anyone know where I can find one.

Thanks, Mike
 
It's just a 12v actuated relay for a 120v power line a fairly generic item. The replacement needs to be rated to handle the amp load of the water heater, which is about 12 amps actual (1500 watts). Figure on a 15A rating for the relay. Does the RL-1009 have a standard 120v outlet in it to plug the heater in, or is it hardwired (no plug - just wired right to the controller)?

These relays are readily available as components but you may need a packaged (components in a box) solution. That's usually what PowerTek supplied. As far as I know, PowerTek is still in business - I think its actually made in India. Might just need a different part number.

Grainger Supply probably has a suitable relay in their catalog. And here is one on Amazon that would do it if the heater plugs into the PowerTek: http://www.amazon.com/XANTECH-AC1-Controlled-AC-Outlet/dp/B000NU0T62
 
Thanks Gary, it has a standard 120v outlet that the water heater plugs into so I will look at your link and go from there.

Mike
 
They are still used to deactivate front tvs when the coach is running, so you ought to be able to find one somewhere. I have a Power Tek RL-1003 in mine for that purpose. Rated enough to handle your heater too.

Here are some on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RV-LEVITON-POWERTEK-TV-POWER-CONTROLLER-RL-1003-12V-DC-120V-AC-MOTORHOME/371277872561
http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWERTEK-POWER-CONTROLLER-RL-1003-120VAC-15A-RV-TRAILER-MOTORHOME-/201264668104
 
The RL in the part number means ReLay.

As Gary said Grainger, and most electrical shops sell some rather good size jobs that can control a water heater (MINIMUM 15 amps at 120 volts.. I'd rather have 20 amps at 240 volts.  But watch coil current (or use a pilot relay)

What is a pilot relay.. This is a small relay that puts way less load on the control borad,, buit it then powers the coil on the monster relay.


For Televelison use 5 amps at 120 volts should be enough.. Usualy no pilot is needed since these the "Controller" can pass many amps.

NOTE WHen I say minimum I mean minimum,, If a relay is rated say six hundred volts on the contacts,, THat is acceptable... Likewise a relay rated for 50 amps will work... But the bigger the relay the more expensive as a rule.

Box to put it in?  you can DIY that or pick up a project box at Radio Shack.
 
I should add that this sort of relay is either "Normally Open" (passes no current unless activated) or "Normally Closed" (passes current until activated).  The RL-1003 is intended for a tv ignition interlock, so is "normally closed", meaning the power goes to the tv unless and until the +12v signal is received.  Most likely the RL-1009 for your water heater was "normally open", meaning the heater gets no power until you activate the relay via the small 12v switch. To use the RL-1003 for the heater, you would have to wire it backwards so that the little switch is usually on, keeping the relay open. Turning the switch off lets the relay go to its normal closed position and the heater gets power.

But I found an RL-1009 on Ebay too!
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XPower+tek+rl-1009.TRS0&_nkw=Power+tek+rl-1009&_sacat=0
 
Well stupid me wired the controller wrong. When I looked at the old one I had the wires mixed up so after rewiring it I now have a working unit.
Thanks for all the help guys.
 
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