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RVing quick tips

RVing Quick Tips

These RVing quick tips were contributed by RV Forum members.


Air up and check inside duallies:

Here's how to check air pressure and air up inside dually tires without extenders. Click the link below to see the photo as you read the following. Note the two foot air chuck configuration. The 6 inch long 5/16" fuel hose serves to remove the valve cap from the inside dual.

Insert the the fuel line through the hole in the wheel or wheel cover, forcing it over the valve cap, then twist in a counter clockwise direction. Use the two foot chuck shown to air up or check air pressure. Use the fuel line again to reinstall the valve cap. This procedure worked very well for me for several years and I did not need extenders.

This tip submitted by forum staffer Ron.

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Align truck and 5th wheel:

I attached a retractable tape measure to the side of my king pin hitch. When I uncouple, I measure and write down the distance from the tape measure to the ground, then I level the trailer height. When I am ready to leave, I pull down the tape measure to the height at which I uncoupled and raise the legs until I reach that distance. I back the truck in and it is always at the perfect height. Takes the guesswork out of king pin height and saves lots of time.

Also, I painted a white strip on my truck mounted hitch and on the top of the king pin. I am then able to line up my hitch and king pin by using the rearview mirror. Between the ruler and the painted strip, I am normally able to connect the truck and unit in one try!!! That is exceptional for me; Prior to these simple additions I would be in and out of the truck ensuring correct height and alignment maybe 4-6 times.

This tip submitted by forum member threefull (aka Bill T).

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Block sun and heat loss via skylights:

Large skylights, such as the ones often found above RV showers, can result in unwated heat from the sun in additon to allowing heat to escape from inside the RV. Forum members have used various ways to solve these issues:

Make or buy cushions that just fit inside the skylight. This will reduce direct sunlight and keep the RV cooler. (Liz)

Make shades for the skylights using auto window shades and Velcro. This has worked fine in our RV and the shades have stayed up with no problem. To attach Velcro be sure to clean off the area with rubbing alcohol and allow to dry. Also it is best to wait several hours ( usually wait 24 hours) before attaching the shade. (JoAnn)

Mount a piece of acrylic sheeting (aka plexiglass) below the skylight, using aluminum angle for the mounting brackets. That creates a second dead air space and cuts down on heat transfer immensely. Using smoke colored acrylic will cut down the sun loading somewhat as well. (Gary)

This tip submitted by several forum members.

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Broken tank monitor switch:

How to repair a broken switch on the indicator control panel (Tank1, tank 2, water, propane, voltage). The activation switch lights up the information. That switch is virtually non-replaceable or impossible to get.

When mine malfunctioned, I did not remove it (it's glued in), but rather added a small push-button switch (N/O) as shown in the image. The wires from the new switch are simply attached to the wires of the broken one. Cost less than a dollar.

Click here for photo.

This tip submitted by forum member Carson.

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Burned out switch bulbs:

Many of the switches on my coach are "indicator/Switches", that is they light up when turned on. This includes the hot water heater switches, the step lock switch, and a few others. Those tiny bulbs always burn out quickly, so you don't know if the switch is on or off.

I picked up a bunch of LED indicators at an electronics supply, the kind that have a single LED in a plastic tube about a quarter inch in diamater, and leads come out the end. You drill a hole, push the LED through (leads first), slip a "Speed nut" on the "Back side" (over the leads), and push it up and it's there. Parallels the indicator in the swithces with burned out bulbs. The LEDs should outlast me.

This tip submitted by forum member John Davis (aka John in Detroit).

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Clean ceiling stains:

I've had some success removing ceiling stains using OxyClean with Woolite made for carpet cleaning. The only trouble was spraying upwards, it's made for spraying downwards. I did just a small area at a time, sprayed, let set for about 5 minutes, then blotted with clean towel, just as the directions tell you. Does clean it, but very slowly. I'll have to go over some areas.

The Oxy-clean suggestion is a good one. Let it soak a while though. Oxy Clean is a mild bleach and doesn't work quickly, but it is quite safe, even when used in strong concentrations.

This tip submitted by forum member Daisy Thomas, with clarification by RV Roamer.

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Cleaning the gutters:

I have to park under two Oak trees at the residence. The gutters on my TT are always clogged with leaves and what does drain just finds the easiest route out of the gutter, usually down the side of the TT. I try to keep them cleaned out, but ladders and I have a history of disagreements, so I came up with a way to clean them with my feet on the ground.

I went through my stash of PVC and came up with a power wand that I can use from the ground. I made it out of 3/4" PVC and long enough for me to reach the gutters easily. Just hook it to the hose. I put the extra slip to hose fittings in so that I can adjust the direction it sprays and it also does the house gutters. No more ladders but the ER guys might miss me.

Click the links below to view photos.

This tip submitted by forum member reddogsrunning.

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Deodorize and dehumidify:

Do you need a good deodorizer, defumer, dehumidifier, de-everything for your RV? Have you heard of ZEOLITE?

Zeolite is a volcanic product with a"high ion exchange capacity". It comes in both granular form or in rock/pebble form in mesh air bags. (1 and 2 lb bags.) Just put it in the fridge, bathroom, pet areas etc.

It will last indefinitely but requires occasional "recharging" by placing it in sun light for a few hours. Then it'll be just like new.

I cannot recall where I purchased the mesh bags, maybe a hardware store, Camping World, or a pet store. The granular version is also called "ODORZOUT", used primarily for pet problems. The description of ZEOLITE MESH BAG is a fascinating read.

This tip submitted by forum member Carson.

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Dispensing fluids and additives:

Here's a contraption I use to safely and accurately dispense additives to my fuel tank. Being the cheap tightwad I am, this contraption costs very little, if anything.

There are two options for the container. If you have ever bought differential oil in a quart container, chances are it came with a pointed spout. If you or someone you know uses Clairol hair dye products, you know one of the ingredients is dispensed from a plastic bottle with a pointed spout.

Using one of these bottles with a pointed spout, if you get some flexible plastic tubing to fit over the pointed spout, you can prefill the bottle with the desired amount of additive and safely dispense the liquid into the target.

I also use one of these to fill the deep cycle batteries in the coach with distilled water, but obviously not from the same dispenser as I use for fuel additive.

This tip submitted by forum staffer Steve.

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Don't fool the AC:

Here's a little hint for users of roof type A/C units, using rotating type ceiling air vents.

Ensure that any vent outlet is not pointing at the thermostat. Cold air hitting the thermostat will wreak havoc on your desired indoor temperature. You may even think your A/C is on the fritz.

Even your heater outlet may sneak warm air up the wall towards the thermostat.

This tip submitted by forum member Carson.

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Dribbling windshield washers:

Are your windshield washers spraying or dribbling? Maybe a little tune-up is required, especially if you have been using plain water instead of "Washer Fluid" for some time.

Algae builds up in the reservoir and will clog the pump and lines. I know from experience, and my local auto dealer wanted big bucks to fix it; 1-2 hours labor. Here is what to do:

Use a garden hose with a spray nozzle feeding lots of hi-pressure water into the tank. Let it overflow for some time. I actually used a spray wand aka black tank wand to make sure all corners would be covered.

Next, drain via a siphon hose, to about half full. Add one cup of Household Bleach (watch your eyes) and stir, then let sit for 10 or more minutes.

Engage washers once or twice, rinse windshield with hose while doing that. Then use the hose and spray technique again by overflowing, to fully remove all dirty water from the reservoir.

Next, drain the tank fully (siphon out) and refill with fresh water and run wiper washer again for a reasonable time.

Final step is to drain again and refill the reservoir with the proper "Wiper Washer Fluid".

This tip submitted by forum member Carson.

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Easy air bag inflation:

This little trick is for RV owners using "Front Suspension Air Cylinders", sometimes called airbags. If you don't already have remote valve stems via extension hoses, this may be of interest to you.

I have a Chevrolet P30 chassis and crawling underneath to check the pressure is virtually impossible. The images (click the links below) show my installation of the hoses and valves to a very accessible and secure spot.

I installed Firestone bags and the hoses were part of the kit.

This tip submitted by forum member Carson.

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Easy-access panels:

I was getting tired of unscrewing the panel that hid the hot water bypass valve and thought there might be a better way. In addition, when the dog steps on his water bowl and the water runs under the cabinets, it's nice to be able to quickly remove the bottom panels.

I bought two drawer pulls that match the cabinetry in the kitchen and mounted them where the screw holes were on the panel. I then took some commercial-grade Velcro and put it behind where the handles mounted so that I could simply pull off the panel. Click on the links below to view pictures.

This tip submitted by forum member Dave (akacougar3514v).

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Emergency leak repair:

Keep a fresh unopened tube of silicone caulk in your RV for small emergency leak repairs. We were sitting in a driving rain one day and noticed water coming in through the window over the kitchen counter. We could see a tiny bit of daylight at the top-middle where the sliding section closes and locks. We had never had it happen before since the awning is usually out on that side. This day it was too windy to have the awning out.

After the rain quit, I pulled a picnic table up to the side of the Motorhome and stood on it to caulk the top of the window frame and fill the little gap in the frame joint with my tube of silicone. I recommend that once you open a tube of silicone, you buy another tube and keep it as a spare since the contents of an opened tube will eventually get hard (cure) over the next few months. I recommend buying clear silicone, since it will be the least noticable over the widest range of colors to be repaired.

I also carry a roll of Eternabond tape for more significant (roof) leak repair.

Given my required use of a picnic table above, I suppose another tip would be to carry a 3-4 step ladder, if you have the room & weight available.

This tip submitted by forum member Frank (aka KodiakRV).

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Find the medicine bottles:

Just when you have a headache and decide to take some Tylenol, you look in the medicine cabinet and see lots of small bottles on the shelf, held back with a bar. Apart from having to rummage around for the Tylenol, you notice there's a lot of unused space above the little bottles. Here's a solution for both problems.

Attach a 4" length of industrial strength Velcro along the top edge of the shelf's back wall. Then cut small pieces of Velcro and attach them to the backs of the small bottles. Now the small bottles are stuck to the cabinet wall in a higher position, making them more visible and easily found. This also frees up space on the actual shelf for other things. Write the new expiration dates on the old bottles and reuse them. Alternatively, cut another small piece of Velcro for each new bottle you buy.

This tip submitted by forum member Kathy (aka cuts-up).

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Food odors inside refrigerator:

Have you inadvertently left food in the refrigerator or freezer after unplugging the RV? Here's how to remove that bad food odor. Put baking soda on a plate or saucer and leave it on a shelf inside the refrigerator.

This tip submitted by forum member John Davis (aka John in Detroit).

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Floor vents get your toes:

There are 3 furnace floor vents in my rig; bedroom, galley and near drivers seat. The bedroom one spurred me into action. In the middle of the night for a trip to the bathroom, I would have to step on that vent with raised ridges ---- ouch!

I found a 'flat-topped' vent (strong plastic, in a local RV shop). The length was close but I had to cut a bit of the bottom insert part off to make it fit in the hole. Voila, my dream came true.

This tip submitted by forum member Carson.

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Hanging photos and art:

3M makes velcro that uses their Command Strips (adhesive tape). Attach pieces of one half of the Velcro to the back of the picture and pieces of the other half to the wall. This has the added benefit of being able to cycle through different pictures when you get tired of one.

3M also makes hooks using the same Command Strips.

Just be sure to use the wall side of the strips against the wall of the RV and against the back of the picture. The strips can be removed later with no damage to the wall or picture.

This tip submitted by several forum members and staff.

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Illuminate the pantry:

When we bought our Dutch Star motorhome, we opted NOT to put in the rolling pull-out trays in the pantry, as they waste too much storage space. Being almost full-timers, it is generally stocked pretty well anyway. For light, we put up those battery-powered "moon" lights. We just replaced orignal cheap ones with LEDs that work great. I just have to remember to turn them off before shutting the door again.

This tip submitted by forum member Daisy Thomas.

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Increase water flow:

Low water-flow in galley sink? Remove the aerator from the spigot, clean the screen and remove/discard the water saver washer. Water usage will stay the same.

This tip submitted by forum member Carson.

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Interior window blackouts:

Our bedroom pull down shades did not keep the bright sun out. Also, if we were parked near those big bright lights sometimes found at campgrouds, the lights would keep us awake at night. I made panels of dark fabric, sewed a pocket across the top, slipped a spring loaded tension rod through the pocket, and put the rod under the valence. I repeated this for all the windows we needed blacked out and they work VERY well.

This tip submitted by forum member Marsha.

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Keep cabinet doors from opening:

On the first day of our seven week trip out north and west, we discovered after we got to the campground that some of the cabinet doors had come open. The highways and interstate going across north-east Oklahoma, from Ft. Smith to Tulsa and then over to I-35 and up into Kansas, were probably the culprit, with contents inside the cabinets moving back and forth causing the doors to open. Our solution was to partially make our camper kid-proof.

We visited a Walmart in Wichita, Kansas, and, in the baby department, I found:

  • a device that hooks over two knobs of opposing doors and then slides together.
  • an inside the cabinet latch that has to be un-latched after the door is partially open

Between the two of these, small bungee cords, storage containers in the cabinets to restrain the contents and redistribution of heavier items to other locations, we didn't run into any further problems. We just had to make it part of our "rigging for the road" routine.

This tip submitted by forum member Mike Goad.

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Keep mice out:

It had been bothering me to think that mice could climb into this one hole I knew about. So my project was to fix it. Of course there are probably many other accessible holes for mice to get into, but I knew about this one.

The area is where the electrical cord goes down thru the floor and leaves a gaping 3" hole. The plan: Seal the hole. The tools: Sewer cap donut, and flushing ear muffs for boat engine. The outcome was a success. Click the links below for photos.

This tip submitted by forum member rubysamm.

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Keep wipers off windshield:

When we were camped in snow/ice, I used tennis balls under the wiper arms to keep the blades off the windshield; I was afraid that they'd freeze onto the glass and be damaged when I tried to remove them. Some folks use this technique any time their rig is in storage, irrespective of the weather.

This tip submitted by forum staffer Tom.

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Laptop stand:

A floor-standing laptop mount can be easily built from galanized pipe and fittings available at any hardware store. The tray can be made of wood to fit the PC. Click the links below to see photos.

This tip submitted by forum member George Mullen.

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Lap tray for notebook PC:

Some folks like to have their PC on their lap while watching TV or just lounging around. This can be a little awkward and there have been reports of folks receiving leg burns from the bottom of the PC. I solved this with the help of my wife. I cut a piece of 1/4" thick laminate for the PC tray. My wife cut a piece of foam and glued it to the underside of the tray. No more wobbly PC or hot legs.

This tip submitted by forum staffer Tom.

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Mildew removal:

A forum member in Florida reported that his RV had developed mildew on all the seals around the doors and windows. He had heard that bleach will destroy the rubber seal. Gary responded with the following:

Use a bleach solution rather than full strength bleach and it won't bother the rubber at all. You can make it fairly strong, 10-15% bleach, but be careful of clotting, your eyes, etc. A heavy duty cleaner such as Simple Green or Mean Green also helps.

The bad news is that the mold tends to get down into the pores of the rubber and can be very stubborn to remove, even though the bleach solution may have killed it. Sometimes replacing the rubber is the only way to get it looking clean again.

This tip submitted by forum staffer Gary (aka RV Roamer).

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Non-spill funnel:

For me, this was one of those why didn't I think of that? solutions, courtesy of forum member Terry Brewer.

Almost every time I use a funnel to pour fluid such as oil, coolant, or windshield wash, the funnel almost always decides to move at the wrong time. This is especially true if I'm pouring a fluid into a 1-gallon container. The result is that either I miss with my pouring or some of the contents of the funnel spill.

Terry's simple fix is to wrap a piece of duct tape around the neck of the container and overlap it with the funnel. The result is that the funnel stays in place and you're not trying to hit a moving target.

This tip submitted by forum staffer Tom.

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Peeling or bubbling wallpaper:

If the bubble is not along the seams, take a razor blade and gently cut from one end of the bubble to the other. Don't make the line straight, as a straight line will tend to be more visible than a squiggly line. The following applies equally to repairs on and off the seam.

Wipe the wallpaper where you need to make the repair with a damp sponge to make the paper more flexible. Now, gently raise the wallpaper up and with a flat popsicle stick or something very slim and flat such as a cake batter knife, spread some wallpaper paste behind the wallpaper. Don't force it, but you do want to work the paste into all the corners of where it is comming up. If you should accidently tear the paper, not to worry, just put a bit more paste on the tear and press it back in place. Don't be concerned about getting too much paste on because, as you put the paper back and wipe it down with a damp sponge, it will pick up any excess glue. The glue should be tacky enough to hold the paper down, if not, you may need to apply some pressure until it sets up.

This tip submitted by forum member Larry (aka 2006F350).

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Pre-travel reminders:

I attach a series of reminders to the steering wheel to remind me of things I MUST check before moving my motorhome. The "reminders" are nothing but ladies' hair clips available in the "hair care" section of most drug stores. Each clip is labeled using a generic tape label maker (in my case, a Brother PT-65, from Office Depot). The labels can be easily read in the photo, except for the left-most one; it states "TV ANT" (for the roof-top batwing antenna).

The clips are normally stored on my sun visor. When I arrive at a campsite ALL clips are moved to the steering wheel, regardless of whether any particular clip is applicable for my stay. Before starting my engine to leave, I confirm in my mind that I have taken the proper action represented by each clip before I return that clip to the sun visor. So far the system hasn't failed me.

This tip submitted by forum member George Mullen.

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Prevent cold draughts:

Have you ever felt a cold draft coming into your motorhome during a cold night? Chances are, unless you left a window open, that the dashboard climate control switches (vent, heat, A/C, defrost) have been left in the "ON" position before you shut the engine off.

Most RVs, (maybe not diesels) have vacuum operated air-intake vent valves/baffles. In many cases, when you shut the engine down, these valves stay where they are and don't close. Make sure you hit the "OFF" button before engine shutdown. The outside air intake baffle will close and stay closed. Voila, no blizzard in the cabin.

This tip submitted by forum member Carson.

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Protect wiper blades from sun:

Protect your wiper blades from the sun while the rig is parked or in storage. Take some foam water pipe insulating tubing, available at most hardware stores. It comes in 6 foot lengths for 3/4 inch piping, it is preslit, and is about 1 inch in o.d. Cut a couple of pieces to length for your wipers, and slip right over the blades. They will last a long time, and so will the rubber on the wipers and its cheap.

If you're buying or making screens for the windshield and windows, add a couple of covers for the wiper blades. They will slip over the blades and may have Velcro to hold them in place

This tip submitted by forum member Carson, with additions by others.

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Removing decals:

I found it faster to remove the tape by using a long dowel rod and winding the tape up on it. By using a long dowel the prssure is spread evenly over the tape and it does not tear. I used a glue remover to clean up the residual glue. (Jeff)

Use an eraser wheel. It is a rubber type wheel approx 4" in diameter that you mount into an electric drill and literally erase the decal. Surprisingly it does not harm the surface under the decal. It is often used on boats, cars & trucks. New stripes should not be put over old stripes as they will either not stick good or distort over time. All stripes and striping materials can be found at a good auto body & paint supply shop. Or look at Eastwood. The erasers are shown on Erasers. (Robert aka RSFlight)

This tip submitted by various forum members.

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Repair torn awning fabric:

I have a tear in my slide topper. It is close to the Motorhome and about 12 inches long. I bought a roll of awning repair tape at the local RV store and applied to both the top and bottom side of the topper, covering the tear. So far it has held up for over a year.

This tip submitted by forum member Camping With Miles.

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Re-use partial tube of caulk:

If I am using a tube of caulk and stop with a partial tube, I use a small piece of aluminum duct tape. Wrap it around the nozzle and pinch shut, and it will keep your caulk from setting up in the nozzle. It works for my elastomeric caulk that I use.

This tip submitted by forum member Jerrygroah.

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Rusty floor vents:

A couple of my floor vents were rather dingy and had rust around the edges. Off they came, a little sandpaper to remove the rust, a cleaning with a degreaser, a good rinse and dry, then a spray paint application with my favorite color - slate gray - 'RUST-OLEUM'. Should be good now, like new, for another 12 years.

A little side hint: If you feed your dog/cat kibbles near the vent, put a mat over it. This was also a good time to vacuum out the air duct and clean it.

This tip submitted by forum member Carson.

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Save space in the gray water tank:

When we don't have full hook-ups I keep a dishpan in the sink to wash dishes, then dump the dirty dish water into the black tank. Puts more water into the black tank and keeps the gray from filling so fast. Another way to keep from filling the gray so fast is to wash dishes outside (IF allowed - I would ask first).

This tip submitted by forum member rmw1990.

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Securing a Euro chair:

Many RVers have a Euro chair that does double duty as a desk chair and a recliner. James showed us how his Euro chair is secured for traveling.

This tip submitted by forum member James One.

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Staying cool inside the RV:

It's almost impossible to keep some RVs cool in full sun on a hot day. The insulation is often minimal, many lack dual-pane glass, some have lots of windows & skylights that allow the sun's rays to heat the inside and air circulation is often poor, especially in rigs without ducted air. All this adds up to a lot of discomfort and the risk of heat prostration or even death for pets or people. It may actually be less risk to leave a pet lying in the shade under the RV than to coop it up inside where the enclosed box can turn into an oven and go to 110-140 degrees.

Some things that can be done include:

  • 1. Even the slightest shade on the site helps. Think about where the sun is at mid-day and late afternoon, when it is hottest, and use the advantage of trees for shade.
  • Open awnings to shade the windows and walls and thus reduce sun-loading on the interior.
  • Put reflective tint on window glass.
  • Put foam insulation in ceiling vents. RV stores sell "pillows" designed for a standard 14x14 vent, but you can buy 2 inch foam in most any craft or fabric store and cut your own. Even a cloth cover snapped over the opening will help quite a bit. Don't forget the shower skylight if you have one.
  • Additional fans will circulate the air and reduce hot spots.
  • Consider closing off unused areas during the day, especially if leaving a pet. Your a/c may be able to keep a smaller area cool.
  • Cut and fit insulating sheets using the 2x3 foam-backed poster boards available in most craft stores, Walmart, etc. This material is 1/4 inch rigid foam and will generally stand on its own in window tracks, entry door, etc. It dosn't look real shabby and can be stored easily under a matteress or back of a closet.

If you decide to put reflective film on the windows, make sure you get the type that's specifically designed for RV double-pane use. The film used in cars and available everywhere, can cause excessive heat on the window itself and break the glass. Camping World and other RV specialty shops have the stuff you want. (Karl)

This tip submitted by forum staffer Gary Brinck (aka RV Roamer) with additions by forum staffer Karl Kolbus.

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Stop stuff moving around:

When traveling and the refrigerator is not very full, to keep stuff from "traveling" around inside, I put in empty pots or bowls wherever the need is. This also works in the pantry, when there is space available for the pots or bowls.

This tip submitted by forum member Daisy Thomas.

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Seal the stove top:

A rubber shower door seal, which is designed to fit under a typical glass shower door, works great as a gasket between the metal rim of a typical RV stove-top and counter. One seal, cut in half, is enough for both sides of the cook-top. It works great to stop the obvious rattle(s) and also prevents liquid/spillage from the counter surface seeping under the rim of the stove-top. There is just enough room to pry up the rim and slide the rubber under. Sold at most hardware stores for about $2.

This tip submitted by forum member Buddy Tott.

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Store muddy boots:

We use our travel trailer to go to calf shows 3 times per year and EVERY time it seems there will be a storm. I use empty cardboard beer flats to put in the cabinet near the door to set our dirty shoes on, since we can't leave them outside due to rain and wind. Keeps the mud/dirt off the floor and keeps the boots out of the way.

This tip submitted by forum member rmw1990.

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Store remote controls:

Need a place to store your electronic remotes? Slap some Velcro on the back, mount a strip to the inside of a cabinet....tada !

This tip submitted by forum member Kenneth.

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Storing fishing poles:

The "safest" place I could find for the fishing poles was under the head of the bed. Under our bed there's an elevated section approx 4' high, 3' long, and 3" deep that runs the width of the bed. All the poles, broken down into their 2 or 3 pieces, fit nicely in this area, although they have to be laid diagonally to fit. One or two short 1-piece poles also fit, although not as safely as I would like. I'm very careful every time I raise the bed to access something that I don't inadvertently move a pole and have it get crushed when I lower the bed. But the inevitable happened - someone (not me and definitely not the other half) moved a pole and ..... crunch. (Tom)

If you have passthrough bays, mount some rod holders on the ceiling. For even better protection, hang some large diameter PVC in the bays. (Ned)

My Winnebago has a 10' long compartment on one side running lengthways (doesn't pass through). I use a large diameter PVC tube on the top of that compartment. (Caltex)

When I put the flyrod on board it will go along the chassis rails between the two bays that are open between them. (Ron)

I have a rack across the middle in my Pace arrow that has the padded clamps common for holding fishing poles. I have to pull them out on one side and then walk around and do it on the other though. (Woody)

This tip was compiled from responses by various forum members.

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Storing liquor bottles in transit:

Put the bottles somewhere they can't fall over. Get a liquor carton from a liquor store and put the bottles in that. The dividers will keep them from banging against one another and they won't fall over.

We have a rack that sits in the clothes closet - think of a wine rack sitting on its side, so that the bottles are upright. Same thing could be attached (screwed) to a countertop or sidewall (if wall panels are sturdy enough) to hold bottles. Not much too it - a rectangular box with dividers for however many bottles you want. I made my dividers adjustable (they slide on wooden rods rather than being glued into place) to accommodate both standard liquor bottles, cordials and wines, but you may not care about that.

We put old clean socks on our liquor bottles and keep them in a basket under the sink in our coach.

This tip submitted by forum staffers Ned & Gary (aka RV Roamer) and forum member Liz Pearce.

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Test the smoke alarm:

Is your smoke alarm really working? Yes, you can test it by pushing the test button to find out. But, will it alarm in the presence of real smoke?

One way to test it in a "real" smoke environment is to invite your cigar-smoking neighbor over and have him blow a good whiff of smoke directly into the detector. This is called a dynamic test. Other ways to test it, suggested by forum members, include:

  • Invite the cigar smoking friend OUTSIDE the motor home and remove the detector to the outside for the test. That way the rig don't smell of cigar for the next way too long.
  • Pop a couple of pieces of bread in the toaster without the AC or vents running.
  • Light a candle and then blow it out.

This tip submitted by forum member Carson.

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Trash Bag Holder:

I wanted to have something to hold a trash bag that would keep it open for ease of access and to be able to keep it off the ground away from animals. I took an old 5 gal bucket and measured down approx. 8" from the top and cut the bottom off. This leaves you with a handle and an 8" trash bag holder. I feed the empty bag up from the bottom and fold it around the top of the remaining bucket. I can then hook the handle under the raised portion of the camper near the king pin. It isn't on the ground and animals can't get it. Best part is its free if you have an old bucket around.

This tip submitted by forum member kafansler.

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Utilizing dead space for storage:

In our RV, I use the large cabinet which would house a washer/dryer (if we had one) as a pantry. I had a lot of empty space above the top shelf, but hubby never got around to making me a shelf for up there. I took 4 tea cup hooks and purchased a mesh laundry bag at a dollar store. Cut the bag to the width of the cabinet put teacup hooks up on each side at a distance which is about the height of a roll of paper towels. I stretched the mesh "bag" out and hooked it upon the hooks. Now extra (lightweight) rolls of paper towels, napkins and chips travel up there.

This tip submitted by forum member JoAnn.

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Velcro frees up cabinet space:

Velcro is amazing stuff! Use it in the medicine cabinet, spice cabinets, be creative. You would be surprised how much more room there is on the bottom of those shelves for small items. Need a place to store your electronic remotes? Slap some Velcro on the back, mount a strip to the inside of a cabinet.

This tip submitted by forum member Kenneth.

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Water evaporation from p-traps:

During lengthy storage the water in the P-traps (the U-shaped pipe under sinks and bathtubs) has a tendency to evaporate. This will eventually cause fumes/odors to permeate into the RV from the waste tanks.

Simple solution: Make sure the traps are filled with water, then add 1 tablespoon of el-cheapo vegetable oil through the drains. The floating film of oil will now substantially prevent evaporation. It will also help to keep the stoppers in place, but not really necessary.

This tip submitted by forum member Carson.

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