Recent content by emiddleb

When you are plugged into shore power, 120v does a pass-through on the inverter for all the 120v plugged-in stuff. You can see this by turning off the 'salesman switch' when you are on shore power. When it's off, no 12v ceiling lights, fans, pump BUT your 120v TV, microwave, plugs etc will...

I will only say that I had my ARP installed years ago on my 1201 without the Norcold "fix" box, and it has never had an issue. Still working fine after 7+ years. My opinion, not a lawyer nor played one on TV, not trying to second guess ARP, etc... they would not want to be in the position of...

Good move, if you ask me. When the whole 120x fridge recall came out, I did some research and instead of doing the recall I went with the ARP unit. I liked the specs better than the Norcold fix and so far (8 years now) it's worked fine so far.

By any chance did you install the Norcold thermal cutoff fix they issued several year ago, the one that prevents overheating?

Just go plug any ol' thing into the outlet where the fridge is plugged in... volt meter, table lamp, power drill... anything that runs on AC. If it works, you've got power at the outlet and the problem is the fridge. If doesn't work, fridge might be ok and you need to focus on power side...

My Roadmaster dolly manual specifies 18" plus/minus 1" from the ground to the top of the hitch ball. I had to get a drop to meet that, especially after I aired-up to drive.

It's not the manual for the camera/display that you need. It's part of the Trip-Tek system. Under the dash there is a box that merges the backup camera input with the Trip-Tek/Medallion input to display both on your monitor. It's the little control panel with the "View" "Screen" and Up/Down...

Need one more closeup of the tire. The DOT codes you show are giving info like where the tire was made (factory) the tire size/specs of the manufacturer. What you are looking for is a block with 4 numbers. They indicate the week/year of manufacture (ie 4020 would be the 40th week of 2020.)...

When I replaced mine I went to a 1-Din radio. Magnadyne does make a trim plat for converting their 1-1/2 to 1 Din. While I mine through them, they are available on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Radio-Mounting-Adaptor-Magnadyne-M99XXSDKIT/dp/B01FUV37JY

And if you call them, be sure to ask if they fill RV on-board tanks. Aps and maps often show all propane places but many of them are BBQ tank-swap/fill only.

DurangoGold, what RV year/make/model do you have? Didn't see it in your profile or postings. May have missed it. Reason I ask... on my DP the slides and jacks (HWH system) run off the chassis battery bank, not the house battery bank. The inverter would run off the house bank. Do you know...

You probably have the TripTek system... keypad with "View" "Screen" "Reset" and up/down arrows and displays on your monitor. When you had your maintenance done they didn't reset the info in the TripTek system. It has nothing to do with actual maintenance, just timers and counters in the...

Not that I'm cynical but... 1) It's always easier to blame the other guy and sit back than it is to actually buckle down and do the work for a solution. 2) Blaming the other guy gets you a soundbite on your brand of mainstream media. Working hard behind the scenes to get something done doesn't...

While I agree that a tripped CFCI is most likely, your 120v breakers are behind a panel under the bed, built into the bed platform. Look for a removable panel.

You have a couple banks of 12v push-style fuses, might check to see if any of those have popped. On my floorplan there is a bank on the bed platform (behind a panel with the 120v breakers) and a couple sets in the outside bay right under the driver's seat.