Recent content by FunSteak

Good point. Also, yes, I carry tools and spares at all times. ;)

Hmm. I am installing 200AH, and don't know the capacity of my alternator. I was willing to sacrifice the boost switch in favor of greatly improved battery life. Planning to pick up a heavy duty jump pack. If I don't need to forgo that function, it would be great. I'm sure I can get my...

Yes, I'd cap and label it, not remove it altogether. I'd like to keep it easy to return to stock if needed. My thoughts on the Amp-L-Start are that it's regulated, and therefore shouldn't cause any overloading issues. I welcome a correction if anyone knows why that's not the case.

Thanks. This is exactly what I was looking at. Looks like I'm on the right track!

Our rig is a 2017 Minnie Winnie 26A. I'm preparing to replace our current lead acid house batteries with lithium. I'm looking for a bit of guidance on understanding the current state, and installing a DC-DC charger, so as not to burn up my alternator. If needed, I'm okay with disabling the...

Everything on the walls of our coach hangs with these exact strips, and hasn't budged for six years. As long as both surfaces are clean and free of any oils, they hold really, really well.

I think that's a camlock connector for a Wastemaster hose. Pretty cashy, but also very cool.

Almost! Only warranty issue we had was a loose piece of paneling in the bedroom. Dealer fixed it overnight, no worries, and it's been solid ever since. Pretty glad I bought in 2017, pre-covid. Even though it's an "entry level" coach, we've been really, really happy with it.

I fill our rig at a local equipment/party rental place. Best price around, charged by the gallon. Not many RVs around here use them, so I've never had to wait in line.

Drawers on our Winnie have little angled plastic levers inside the track on each side. About 2/3 of the way back from the front. To release the drawer, you push one down and one up simultaneously.

Exactly. I once I started feeling some drag, I backed off.

This is correct, and I should have mentioned it's a Suburban. 3/4-14 NPT.

Yes, I'm now installing the new one right away. At the end of our first season, I had it winterized at the dealer and they left it out, so I (mistakenly) assumed that was the way to go. Now that it corroded and I've repaired it, I'm changing my routine. Live and learn!

Huh. I did look and feel, and didn't notice any ridge. NPT threads are tapered, and seal that way, not by engaging a ridge. See: https://i.shgcdn.com/7d49db4a-327f-4f92-b9b6-9eaae79008dc/-/format/auto/-/preview/3000x3000/-/quality/lighter/ If I'm wrong, I'm all ears. I can tell you that...

For the past six years, I've removed the anode from our water heater upon winterizing, and then installed a new one in the spring. At the start of this year, I noticed the threads in the water heater were getting pretty rusty, and the anode wouldn't tighten as far. I did a bit of reading...