Recent content by NickB

It's pretty simple, really. You drill a hole in the side of the camper, install  the inlet and tee it into a cold water line. Have you checked underneath the coach, though? Not all of them had the inlet through the sidewall. It could also be inside of a compartment.

I would recommend using a Marinco brand Power Inlet or Charger Inlet. They come in 15, 30 and 50 Amp varieties and are designed for exterior use.

Just a side note here: The Rhino Lining roof product is actually a different product then their bed liner spray, Gary. I looked at sourcing it, but the start up costs are astronomical and it ends up being more expensive to the customer than a complete rubber replacement. I think they tried to...

It happens a lot. Like was said, it's delaminated because of water damage. That section can likely be reinforced with wood studs, overlaid with new luan, then a sheet of fiberglass, seamed and sealed. This type of repair would be obvious because of the seam in the fiberglass. Estimated repair...

Where are you from? Up here in the Northeast, we have a mattress company out of Jamestown, NY called Jamestown Mattress. They make great quality custom sized mattresses for really good prices.

That's a good point. I guess when OP said "fling open" I just thought of how those things sometimes pull the door out of somebodies hand who wasn't expecting it and startles everybody... Either way, I think it's the same risk of damage.

It sounds like you have a gas strut to hold the door open? More than likely, it will just loosen up the screw holes and they'll have to be re-drilled and reinstalled. There's some stress on the hinges, too. If one of those goes, you'll probably have to replace the entire door assembly (can be as...

We really liked having the 2" receiver welded on the back of our last Travel Trailer. We used a 4 bike carrier and sometimes a hitch-haul platform for gear. It's very convenient.

If the rubber is worn through, it's due for a new membrane. You can source these online or at a local dealership and although it's a lot of work, probably not outside of the realm of experienced DIY. If the rubber isn't worn through, but the holes are from damage, you may get away with...

Search for "RV rigid insert". This is what you're seeing marked in orange. Like Rene said, just get a blade under their and carefully pry it out. You may want to heat it a bit with a hair dryer if it's a cool day when you do this.

There is a huge variation in coverage between different companies and even between their different policies. What you're looking for is an "Exclusionary Policy" ideally. This means that rather than working off small list of covered components, they're working against a list of excluded...

You may also consider a Vehicle Service Contract that includes roadside assistance. Not knowing what you have, I'm spitting into the wind, but consider that hypothetically: If you were to purchase AAA RV plus at about $160 a year, over 5 years you'd have spent $800 for just roadside. If a you...

10 years marks a major depreciation factor on RVs. At 10 years, they become largely unable to be financed, which is a burden on dealers, therefore decreasing market value. Doesn't mean it won't be a good coach, but beware of the depreciation. Also for financing purposes, a 1 or even 2 model...

Yep. This. You need to remove the plastic screw covers by gently prying them out of the track. They may be brittle and break, in which case, your local RV dealer should have replacement pieces in stock. The caulking will probably need to be cut(carefully!) to get the door loose.

Clearly some of us have not had the gut-wrenching experience of cleaning out a clogged tank. In my time spent as an RV technician, I had the displeasure dozens of times and wouldn't balk for a second that the oh-so-small investment in the recommended products to prevent that amazingly awful...