Recent content by quaddriver

the biasing resistors for the output stage do get warm and are typically 2W in size and >1 in parallel.  I have found 5W in size online...its not a HORRIBLE upgrade. ps:  the resistors used are of the 'flameproof' type.  But the laminated phenol boards will discolor long long before any heat...

it aint the slow speeds that will blow it up, its the high speeds. use a good ohmmy meter and find the resistance of the motor.  its easy to find the max current that can flow on a 13.8v circuit.  now you have a good idea of the wattage required.

is there a gfi tripped somewhere?

how did he get the motorcycle on top?  and more pressing:  who rides it off the top?

are you sure its not a fusible link?

do you mean the gen and chassis battery are on one post and the coach battery on another post? that would be a charging setup then.

The new converters (intellipower, connecticut electric etc) recitfy the 120vac to dc right off the bat. then they drive 2 channel inverters but at about 4Khz, and in the meantime, they have 50/60 and 100/120 hz chokes everywhere. then use a transformer to step the modified wave ac down to a...

other posters are right, to save cost/wieght, the wire is likely 14-2+G.  And the snap outlets used are 15amp.  assuming you can find a 20 amp snap outlet or put in a box to take the proper outlet, you need to alter the wire, and you might want to upgrade the breaker as well.  It has been my...

the solenoid could be one of two things: 1) (most common) a solenoid to add the coach battery to the chassis battery for starting boost 2) (usually found on ford based C's) a solenoid to connect the alternator to the coach battery temporarily to allow driving charging. gotta trace some wires...

no isolator between the alt and the coach battery section?

welllllllll, the old 'analog' tvs ran in the VHF range, the HD broadcats run in the UHF range. the range frequencies are diseparate enuf that an antenna tuned for one freq, aint gonna work too well on another band you can, with a few parts from digikey or whatever, 'electrically shorten' your...

oddly, since you are using the inverter for 120 while driving, it might be easy to wire THAT inverter directly to the chassis battery - less hardware in the way to blow up in the rain, at night, on a deserted road, with chupacabra noises in the woods

by the time you buy the gas valve(s), the new pilot end, the ignitor/sensor, the board, the thermostats, and modify the unit to mount the thermostats, you would be best off just getting a DSI brand new....

well I got a neighbor in the scrap biz who gets rvs given to him, he peels them for the metal (frame), aluminum (skin) and copper (wiring+gas lines), and burns the rest.  He tossed out a LOT of good dometic fridges, stoves, heeaters etc I have been taking stuff that has demonstrable life left...

typically, when a class A/C is running,  the converter of course is off, and its internal relay has the coach panel switched to the battery.  This is the same scenario as boondocking. both batteries are connected, so if you want to supplement with a little charge, a simple aux battery isolator...