Recent content by SCVJeff

While there’s lots of guessing going on without going after this with the proper diagnostics, they’re just guesses. While a DVM is a must IMO, my most used meter is an amp clamp that works on both AC & DC. An Amp clamp is the last word and will easily tell you the real load through that breaker...

We don’t even have enough vacuum to run the dash heater VAV’s. That requires an aux pump that has its host of issues too Having said that I have a friend that runs Bio in a 36’ Journey/ CAT. He could tell he had a filter blockage coming up by his loss of power. No other alarms or indications...

I have found that my locally owned, non-franchised tire shop not only stocks a wide variety of tires from most cars to large commercial vehicles.. there’s obviously limits. But these guys have the ability to outsource from any other supplier they require without contractural locks that WalMart...

I would question the bleep programmer. What a job to sit around and come up with this sh.. er, stuff I also looked up that word… nope!😜

it’s ridiculous I tell ya…

I wouldn’t be attempting to test 1000CCA+ battery banks with it. Leave that to the Harbor Freight (or SUN if you can afford it) load tester. BTW- A very long time ago I met the president of Fluke at CES and tried to sell him on my new company slogan: “If it Works, It’s a Fluke” I’m still...

This doesn’t count as a low Z METER. It’s a switchable pile. I have one of these and they work really well, and get hot fast! I forget what the current draw is but probably around 80’ish amps

I have never in my life seen a low impedance Voltmeter that would affect a test like this

I just installed one of these as a drop-in for a friend into an old WFCO chassis, along with two boiled out GP24’s that were only a year old with new AGM’s. The install mechanics are reasonably simple, and the new 4-stage charger will save the AGM batteries from certain death from the WFCO junk...

The frame on all my panels are extruded anodized aluminum and they are doing OK, but all mounting hardware is stainless. As someone who camps extensively on the beach and constantly fighting corrosion (maybe worse than a allot of boats due to a constant on-shore breeze pushing breaking wave mist...

I have my 5 panels attached with VHB and they are as solid as the day I put them up there. Having said that I have the same roof as you that also has some delam bubbles in it and (still) plan to do what John is suggesting with epoxy filler. It “shouldn’t” a big deal.. I was looking at using...

While helping a friend install aux fans on the exhaust of his Monaco Cayman, after cutting out the screen to drop in the fans I noticed that the wood around the fridge exhaust flue was all charred.. this was a fire just waiting for an excuse to ignite! The simple fix was to line the top of the...

I just got done doing this conversion for a friends new (old)(really old)) RV. The old converter/ charger wiped out 2ea. <2 year old batteries. Post install, she gifted herself with 2 new AGM’s since they now won’t melt

Well, I own a 34H, I have 2 friends that have 36G’s, and another with a 32. They can be as much trouble as anything else. The ONLY real difference is the rock solid chassis and the CAT/ Cummins power train. The Allison’s are bullet proof (knocking heavily on the family room wood table), I...

Bras are thick, UV proofed Vinyl. Growing up around boats I have never seen anything other than Canvas/ Sunbrella used. About the only thing those two have in common are the snaps. Which reminds me I better make sure those are Stainless