1994 Fleetwood inverter

[benneufeld]

Hello I have recently purchased a 94 bounder 37x edition with a Kariba washer/dryer(1300w , and rm2807 refrigerator(215) It also has a smart Tv, 250w) with surround sound (250w) and ps4 (85w) gaming console. Microwave (1380w) and hot water tank (1500w) and a keurig coffee machine(400w)

it didn’t come with an inverter so many things using 120v don’t work. I would like to use a solar panel setup, complete with 2 100ah LIPO batteries to comfortably run all the appliances.

But i don’t know which is the best inverter for my my setup, please give any recommendations.

 

[HueyPilotVN]

With that list of all those loads you are going to need more than 200 AH.

New Project, Solar for Class C

I have been doing almost nothing for the last 7 months so I am going to get off my butt and start a new project, I am going to put as large of a solar installation as I can on the Class C Chateau. I am limited by usable roof space but I think I can put 8 (200 watt panels), on the roof for...

www.rvforum.net

 

[uchu]

The solar panel and battery array you are thinking will power the lower wattage appliances. For things like washer/dryer, microwave and water heater you will need a reliable source of AC electricity. Like a good capacity generator.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

It's not the inverter size/type you need to worry about; it's the size of the battery bank to power it and the means of recharging those batteries on a daily basis.

The microwave and water heater are particularly large power draws (high wattage) and not very suitable for inverter use unless you can carry 800-1000 amp-hours (AH) worth of batteries.. Running the microwave for a few minutes is practical, but heating water electrically will quickly drain even a large battery bank. I suggest you use the heaters propane mode for that.

To select inverter size, simply add up the wattage of all the devices that will run simultaneously and get an inverter with a peak capacity about 10% greater. Figuring the battery bank size requires a lot more research. You need to assess how many watt-hours of 120v power you will consume daily (xxx watts for yy hours). Once you have that figure, divide by 12 to get the battery amp-hours needed to deliver those watts. Then add 10%-15% for inverter power loss in the process. You will probably be shocked at the amount. Then estimate how much solar or generator wattage & time will be needed to recharge those batteries every day!

 

[Kirk]

A lot of good advice here but I'll offer another thought. With a 1994 Bounder you can very quickly spend more money on upgrades than you can ever recover. Adding an inverter and improved batteries is probably well worth the cost.

 

[Mr Lars]

We have a ‘95 Bounder 35UWB. We also do not have an inverter. It’s my understanding that Bounders of this era were not available with inverters. Our ‘house batteries’ operate just the 12 volt electrical system in the living quarters. Any 120 volt stuff requires hookup to a pedestal, or running the generator.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

We have a ‘95 Bounder 35UWB. We also do not have an inverter. It’s my understanding that Bounders of this era were not available with inverters. Our ‘house batteries’ operate just the 12 volt electrical system in the living quarters. Any 120 volt stuff requires hookup to a pedestal, or running the generator.

Back then inverters were not common except in high end coaches like Wanderlodge and Foretravel. Some mid-upper tier brands had small inverters so they could power a tv and VCR for off-grid entertainment, but that was about it. But that's just from the factory. Over the years more than a few owners have added inverters capable of much more and the larger battery banks needed to power them.