Outlets not working

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trthomp

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2024
Posts
6
Location
Georgia
Hi
I have 1997 winnabago adventurer cherverlet
Model WCG32WQ
I have 7 outlets working and 5 not working. We have one GFCI. All the outlet have been replaced. I can not find a outlet in the bathroom. The ones not working are the 2 nightstand outlets, 1 outside entertainment outlet, 1 outside outlet and the outlet by the table. We bought the rv used. It has been a fixer upper. Also the push buttons over the microwave, where can you get them to replace. They seem fine but we are replacing everything, why not. What are they called.
Thanks in advance.
 
Outside outlets are often GFCI protected
Try this in the evening or later (dark or very dim) plus into one of the "Dead" outlets and look for the GFCI's telltale (Tripped indicator) that's step one. No joy

Ok next DAY unplug from power and get a cable tracker from Harbor Freight Cable Tracker (You can find them cheaper on Amazon by the way but shipping)

Hook to the White wire on one of the dead outlets and beep beep your way along the wire till you either find NO BEEP (or a lot less beep) or a live outlet (note in advance which wires are live or not)
 
trthomp said:
Hi
I have 1997 winnabago adventurer cherverlet
Model WCG32WQ
I have 7 outlets working and 5 not working. We have one GFCI. All the outlet have been replaced. I can not find a outlet in the bathroom. The ones not working are the 2 nightstand outlets, 1 outside entertainment outlet, 1 outside outlet and the outlet by the table. We bought the rv used. It has been a fixer upper. Also the push buttons over the microwave, where can you get them to replace. They seem fine but we are replacing everything, why not. What are they called.
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
In the bathroom, if you cannot find any outlet at all, have you checked on the underside of a wall-mounted cabinet? This was exactly the issue in our RV. After replacing the GFCI under the cabinet, it and the 4-5 downstream outlets elsewhere in the RV started working perfectly.
 
The outlet on the out side was not GSFI and has new standard outlet in it. I have to get the gsfi outlet for it after I get the outlets working. I will get the cable tracker tomorrow and let you know what I find.
Thanks
 
trthomp said:
The outlet on the out side was not GSFI and has new standard outlet in it. I have to get the gsfi outlet for it after I get the outlets working. I will get the cable tracker tomorrow and let you know what I find.
Thanks
Click to expand...
It doesn't have to be a gfci outside, just ON a gfci circuit (from elsewhere). So a failure inside could lead to a "dead" receptacle outside.
 
There is only one gfci that we have found. That is one of the new ones we installed. We have found all the outlets and replaced all of them. I am thinking there should be one in the bathroom but the previous owners took it out. I think that it is where the 5 outlet not working are supposed to continue there and they just took out the outlet. I have no clue. Lol
 
If there is blank plate where the bathroom outlet was removed, check to make sure the wires are intact.
I am assuming you checked the breakers in the distribution center.
Question is, did they ever work for you? Who knows what the previous owner did.
 
We have had it for 1 year and after finely getting mechanical work done now we are in the house work. I pluged in a hair dryer to all outlets checking them and look at that, more work. Lol
We have brakers only below the fridge. This is where our fuses should be. We have round white push buttons above the microwave. They fill loose so I want to replace them. Just don't know what the name it to look them up. We think they got rid of the fuses because they are not where there diagrams say they are at. Also the diagrams show there should be a outlet in the bathroom. It's just hard to understand.
 
The GFCI circuit in your MH will be wired like this. The GFCI protects every receptacle down-stream. The outside receptacle will not actually be a GFCI fixture. I like to use a non-contact voltage tester to trace live wires.
1712281599096.gif
 
Last edited:
If those are round white circuit breakers over the fridge that seem "loose" that is normal. Leave them alone, They are quite expensive also, can run $10 to $20 each. Same circuit breakers used in many light aircraft.

Wiring diagrams and install drawings. Open each one of the 12 PDF's and download and save them.

1997 Adventurer/Suncruiser G32WQ Wiring Diagram Book​

Plumbing drawings, one large PDF, download and save it.

Coach parts breakdown, drawings and lists. Download and save.
Adventurer (G)

1997 Operator Manuals
Winnebago
2008 Winnebago Parts and accessories catalog. Download and save.

I suggest downloading and saving all of these PDF's to a new, clean thumb drive to keep in the coach, and keep a copy on your home computer or laptop.

Charles
 
trthomp said:
We have had it for 1 year and after finely getting mechanical work done now we are in the house work. I pluged in a hair dryer to all outlets checking them and look at that, more work. Lol
We have brakers only below the fridge. This is where our fuses should be. We have round white push buttons above the microwave. They fill loose so I want to replace them. Just don't know what the name it to look them up. We think they got rid of the fuses because they are not where there diagrams say they are at. Also the diagrams show there should be a outlet in the bathroom. It's just hard to understand.
Click to expand...
The body wiring installation drawings does show the 12v DC breaker panel (two rows of round push to reset breakers) up high over the stove area, so that is correct. The drawings show both 30 amp and 50 amp installations, so it depends on what yours was set up with from the factory as to which drawings you want to look at for the 120v AC circuits.

For a 50 amp coach, the Wiring diagram, Body, 6 of 8 shows a GFCI in the Galley Cabinet for the kitchen recepts. It shows a GFCI in the bathroom for the Dinette, outside, and exterior entertainment center

For a 30 amp coach, the wiring diagram, Body, 8 of 8, for US 30 amp models shows a GFCI for or the galley that also supplies the Galley sidewall, Rear TV, Rt rear recp, dinette overhead or coffee maker.
Another GFCI in the bath feeds the Dinette sidewall, Rt bedroom recp or left sidewall bedroom or left nightstand, plus the exterior recp plus the exterior entertainment ctr.

Charles
 
Last edited:
trthomp said:
The outlet on the out side was not GSFI and has new standard outlet in it. I have to get the gsfi outlet for it after I get the outlets working. I will get the cable tracker tomorrow and let you know what I find.
Thanks
Click to expand...
No the outside outlet is not a GFCI that's inside

Breaker----GFCI---Outlet---Outlet---Outlet--Outside outlet and possibly ---Outlet
The GFCI is inside. the outlets it protects are both inside and outside.
 
trthomp said:
We think they got rid of the fuses because they are not where there diagrams say they are at.
Click to expand...
I would be amazed if there are no fuses in the 12V system. Have you checked the 12V diagrams from the list in post #11? If there are no fuses in the 12V supply then you have a very dangerous situation that should be corrected.
 
Ok thanks for all the help. Turns out that they took the bathroom outlet out. That outlet supplied power to the rest of the outlets. Got to do some work to put new hole in sink side and put outlet in place.

Now can anyone tell me this.
I have a Suburban sf-35 furnace need new thermostat. It has 8 wires for it. Can I use any thermostat for rvs to replace it. I have a cheap thermostat I got for 12.00 analog. It uses 6 wires but doesn't work when I hooked it up.
 
For the T-Stat. only two wires are likely needed for heat. the rest are for ... something else. (Air Conditioner?) and you'd need to know what each wire does.
Wires for heat are often BLUE. but the key word is OFTEN. all the time they are not. One should have 12 volts on it relative to ground and ground can be black, white, or something else.
 
trthomp said:
It uses 6 wires but doesn't work when I hooked it up.
Click to expand...
If the thermostat is used for the furnace only, then a very inexpensive thermostat that works with a coil that opens and closes a set of contacts is all that is needed. The 2 blue wires from the furnace are for the thermostat and if connected through the contacts it will heat and when it warms enough to open the contacts, the furnace will stopl
1712496442449.png
If the thermostat is shared with the air conditioner it then it requires more wires as you seem to have. The wires then go from the thermostat to a circuit board in the air conditioner which determines which unit to control and if it is heating or air conditioning. Here is an example of one of the possible thermostats like this.
1712496620731.png
 
The stock thermostat in an Adventurer is almost surely a combined a/c & heat model. And it likely has front & rear zones, maybe even two furnaces. A photo of the present thermostat would really help us give useful answers. Also, why does it need a new one? What isn't working as expected? Loss of thermostat control is often not the fault of the thermostat itself...
 
Kirk said:
If the thermostat is used for the furnace only, then a very inexpensive thermostat that works with a coil that opens and closes a set of contacts is all that is needed. The 2 blue wires from the furnace are for the thermostat and if connected through the contacts it will heat and when it warms enough to open the contacts, the furnace will stopl
1712496442449.png
Click to expand...

In my Class A the OEM carrier A/C in the front controlled the furnace. When it died Carrier being no more and the proper Adapt-a-kit not being found we put in a what is it Coleman (Air-Express) with "local" T-stat so no furnace.. I got something very much like the above at the local ACE hardware for under 20 bucks and found where the Blue wires ran up the wall (Strangly a very logical spot and easily accessed) Added the T-stat at that point

Worked BETTER than the OEM setup Way better.
 
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