Squeaky trailer floor

[Bullyus]

Hi.......... I have a 2003 Komfort 25 travel trailer with a small slide...... This winter the lino on the floor cracked badly. I am going to replace it with vinyl planks. The floor has always squeaked badly when walking on it. I wanted to see if i could do anything with this while the vinyl is removed. I cant see any screws or staples that hold the floor to the frame. Going from underneath would be a huge job as the bottom is enclosed. Anybody have any ideas ? Thanks very much.

 

[stripit]

Years ago I had a 24 ft Prowler with a squeeky floor. We also had a covering under the bottom. It felt and sounded like the plywood floor was making noise as it was laid across the metal cross beams. I cut a section under the area of the noise in the bottom covering. I cut it 3 sides ( big enough so I could sit and have my shoulders up inside while sitting on the ground) with the uncut portion facing forward so when I put the "flap" back in place the wind when driving forward would not catch and peel the flap back open. I used 1X2 wood as a surround to screw the flap back up when done. From under the trailer I had my wife stand inside to walk on the floor to make the squeek. Then drilled and screwed screws through the cross beam into the plywood. Whole job took about 1/2 hour, pretty easy once you get under and see.

 

[Rene T]

I would use a stud locater then get some self tapping screws with big heads and screw the subfloor down to the cross members. Use a ton of screws

 

[Domo]

Some folks use baby powder in the cracks to ease the friction when the floor moves in sticks and bricks homes - perhaps that can quiet it down.

And, as @Rene T suggests, find 'em and screw to 'em - studs that is...

 

[Onyrlef]

Hi.......... I have a 2003 Komfort 25 travel trailer with a small slide...... This winter the lino on the floor cracked badly. I am going to replace it with vinyl planks. The floor has always squeaked badly when walking on it. I wanted to see if i could do anything with this while the vinyl is removed. I cant see any screws or staples that hold the floor to the frame. Going from underneath would be a huge job as the bottom is enclosed. Anybody have any ideas ? Thanks very much.

One word: Squeak Enders. You'd still have to access the subfloor area.

 

[Rene T]

One word: Squeak Enders. You'd still have to access the subfloor area.

I don’t believe they would if they use a stud finder and do everything from the top hopefully.
Just make sure the stud finder will pick up metal studs.

 

[Kirk]

One word: Squeak Enders.

This is a new one on me so I looked up Squeak Enders on Amazon. I'm wondering which of those products did you use?

 

[Onyrlef]

This is a new one on me so I looked up Squeak Enders on Amazon. I'm wondering which of those products did you use?

We used them on floors with wooden joists ( those with the L bracket, you’d have to match the type to whatever supports the decking.

 

[Bullyus]

Years ago I had a 24 ft Prowler with a squeeky floor. We also had a covering under the bottom. It felt and sounded like the plywood floor was making noise as it was laid across the metal cross beams. I cut a section under the area of the noise in the bottom covering. I cut it 3 sides ( big enough so I could sit and have my shoulders up inside while sitting on the ground) with the uncut portion facing forward so when I put the "flap" back in place the wind when driving forward would not catch and peel the flap back open. I used 1X2 wood as a surround to screw the flap back up when done. From under the trailer I had my wife stand inside to walk on the floor to make the squeek. Then drilled and screwed screws through the cross beam into the plywood. Whole job took about 1/2 hour, pretty easy once you get under and see.

Thanks for your reply..... Im trying to find something that will work without cutting up the underside. May have to do this in the end if nothing else works. The problem is the sqeak is the whole kitchen floor. Thanks for your input.

 

[Rene T]

If you should decide to use screws and you’re concerned about the heads sticking up, just use a fostner bit and counterbore a hole about 1/8” deep for the head to sit flush. Then you could always, if needed, fill the hole with some type of floor leveler

 

[Rene T]

If you should decide to use screws and you’re concerned about the heads sticking up above the floor, Just counterbore a hole with a Forster bit the same thickness as the screw head. Then you could fill the hole with some type of floor leveler

 

[Bullyus]

If you should decide to use screws and you’re concerned about the heads sticking up, just use a fostner bit and counterbore a hole about 1/8” deep for the head to sit flush. Then you could always, if needed, fill the hole with some type of floor leveler

I think its a wierd floor with some type of insulation squished between chipboard. Dont think there are any wood braces below . somehow attached to metal frame . Possibly just around the out side. Im going to remove the lino next week and see what it looks like. Thanks for your input. Hemi

 

[Onyrlef]

Forstner bits are for drilling holes where a regular drill bit is impractical, a bugle head screw will countersink itself or a countersinking bit which ordinarily can be bought in a set of three different sizes. Meantime if you can locate metal joists just be aware self tapping screws are notoriously bad about spinning out or not holding well. I'd drill a pilot hole then use a course thread metal screw.

 

[Bullyus]

Forstner bits are for drilling holes where a regular drill bit is impractical, a bugle head screw will countersink itself or a countersinking bit which ordinarily can be bought in a set of three different sizes. Meantime if you can locate metal joists just be aware self tapping screws are notoriously bad about spinning out or not holding well. I'd drill a pilot hole then use a course thread metal screw.

Ok... Will do ..Thanks for your help. Hemi

 

[Rene T]

Forstner bits are for drilling holes where a regular drill bit is impractical, a bugle head screw will countersink itself or a countersinking bit which ordinarily can be bought in a set of three different sizes. Meantime if you can locate metal joists just be aware self tapping screws are notoriously bad about spinning out or not holding well. I'd drill a pilot hole then use a course thread metal screw.

Using a Forster bit will give you a nice flat hole. Using a self sheet metal self tapping screw will have a farely large head and a lot of surface area under the head. You would end up with much more surface area with these screws than you would with your suggested bugle screw.

 

[Onyrlef]

Using a Forster bit will give you a nice flat hole. Using a self sheet metal self tapping screw will have a farely large head and a lot of surface area under the head. You would end up with much more surface area with these screws than you would with your suggested bugle screw.

For one, It’s forstner and two, bugle head screws are specifically designed to countersink themselves in wood. More surface area is irrelevant. Chasing a pilot hole with a countersink bit would be the ordinary method.

 

[Bullyus]

Using a Forster bit will give you a nice flat hole. Using a self sheet metal self tapping screw will have a farely large head and a lot of surface area under the head. You would end up with much more surface area with these screws than you would with your suggested bugle screw.

Thanks for the reply............. Hemi