Torque on hitch

[Excalibur]

I am installing a new WDH on my van. Instruction video from manufacturer says tighten bolts on shank for hitch assembly to 260 ft/lbs. My torque wrench goes to 250 ft/lbs. Opinions on whether that's enough or is the extra ten pounds critical? Really would hate to have to spend 250 bucks to get that extra ten pounds. Opinions? Thanks in advance.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Well, there's always the shade-tree mechanic method: tighten to 250 and then just a "a little bit more".

 

[Tulecreeper]

Well, there's always the shade-tree mechanic method: tighten to 250 and then just a "a little bit more".

^^^ That ^^^

Get a cheater bar and give it 1/4 extra turn.

 

[Excalibur]

^^^ That ^^^

Get a cheater bar and give it 1/4 extra turn.

I will probably need a cheater bar anyway. I am 67 years old. Hehe...a piece of 3/4 pipe works wonders

 

[Tulecreeper]

I will probably need a cheater bar anyway. I am 67 years old. Hehe...

Then you're like me. You'll need two extra 'arrghs!", and an 'ugga-ugga'.

 

[SpencerPJ]

I'd say all good. I put a couple drops of Loctite on my bolts.

 

[CharlesinGA]

If in question, take it to a local diesel or heavy equipment shop and ask if they have a torque wrench to do it with. Tip the guy who does it a $20 (or two) and You are done. Some hitches use grade 8 bolts between the head and shank and they go quite a bit higher. Grade 5 is 260-320 if I recall, for typical zinc plated bolts.

If the ball came "pre-installed" and you do take it to a shop, flip it sideways and ask them to put 450 lb/ft on the ball for good measure. The socket is 1-7/8" and if an Equal-i-zer® hitch (and yes I know the OP was planning on buying a REESE hitch) a thin wall socket is needed, such as a Powerbuilt (which at $23 is a lot cheaper than the $90 socket Equal-i-zer® sells for this) A thick wall such as a Williams won't fit. Another strike for those who espouse Equal-i-zer® (though they have a HUGE selection of shanks/drawbars.)

Especially if you DO NOT go past the 250 of your torque wrench, be sure and recheck the torque after each of the first several tows. Which should be done no matter the torque but esp if you are on the low side.

Charles

 

[John From Detroit]

Approx 260 = about 200-300 (Actually a bit wider range) so 250 works. Add locktite blue to the threads before running the nuts on... This will result in a very slightly higher torque on the nuts than torquing dry and once it sets. (About 30 minutes) well. you wont' be removing them w/o heat.

 

[SpencerPJ]

To the OP, keep in mind, places like Autozone have a tool loaner program, should you wish to borrow a larger tool or larger torque wrench for a unique project. Pretty simple, go in store, put tool on credit card, comes off when you return it.

 

[RNS]

10 # is within margin of error. Torque wrenches are not very accurate anyway near their limits. Also pretty sure your wrench is not calibrated either.

 

[Onyrlef]

I must be lucky, not realizing the science involved I always just tightened the nut til it wouldn’t get any tighter and carried on.

 

[gwinger]

I'd say all good. I put a couple drops of Loctite on my bolts.

Blue loctite only. Red is not removable without using a torch.

 

[CharlesinGA]

While cheap torque wrenches, even the ones from Harbor Freight, are known to be accurate when tested, the torque wrenches I recommend for an individual are the split beam models made by Precision Instruments which I recommend because there are no springs to take a set should you forget to zero the tool The torque wrench calibration room where I worked told me that they had never had a split beam model fail a calibration test. If you realized how abused these tool were, you would understand how that is a really good testimonial for them.

For an individual that means a lot as its likely you will never get it calibrated (due to the inconvenience and expense) and you will almost for certain forget to zero it when finished.

Precision Instruments | Split-Beam Clicks

They have become expensive, but can still found for reasonable prices. The ½ inch drive flex head model and its baby brother the 3/8 drive model are my go to torque wrenches, and I own about 30 different torque wrenches of various sizes and brands.

In the US, the ANSI standards for torque wrenches and calibration (which pretty closely mimic the standards of Australia, the UK and the EU) require the accuracy to be specified for a range from 20% of full scale, to 100% of full scale. Thus a tool that is accurate within 4% (very common) at 250 lb/ft is considered within tolerance from 240 to 260 lb/ft.

Charles

 

[gwinger]

If you are concerned about being accurate and not spending money for a HD torque wrench. Tighten it to 250 and take your truck and hitch to a 'good' RV dealer or truck repair facility and have the retorque the bolts.
You should actually have them checked after a few hundred miles of towing.
My dealer does this every time I take mine in for the state inspection.

 

[rgsauger]

I may have been known to put a small tack of weld on the nut at the end of the bolt just to make 100% certain it could not back off. I sleep better…..

 

[Ray-IN]

Approx 260 = about 200-300 (Actually a bit wider range) so 250 works. Add locktite blue to the threads before running the nuts on... This will result in a very slightly higher torque on the nuts than torquing dry and once it sets. (About 30 minutes) well. you wont' be removing them w/o heat.

The blue LocTite allows a bolt to be removed, the red requires heat for removal.

 

[John From Detroit]

The blue LocTite allows a bolt to be removed, the red requires heat for removal.

I know I think I said that in another post but it may have been a different thread.. I've use all 3.. Blue is my favorite for 1/4" and larger for the reason you cite.. Small bolts get green.

 

[chims]

I'd say you're good. I took mine to 230 lbs and have never had a problem.

 

[RedForeman]

While cheap torque wrenches, even the ones from Harbor Freight, are known to be accurate when tested, the torque wrenches I recommend for an individual are the split beam models made by Precision Instruments which I recommend because there are no springs to take a set should you forget to zero the tool The torque wrench calibration room where I worked told me that they had never had a split beam model fail a calibration test. If you realized how abused these tool were, you would understand how that is a really good testimonial for them.

+1 on split beam torque wrenches. I have a 30 yr old pair, 3/8 and 1/2 drive Snap-on, that still work like they did when new.

Interestingly, I noticed recently that Harbor Freight has added split beam torque wrenches in 3/8 and 1/2 to their Icon (best) tool line. They still have the cheap twist handle kind, but in more quality tiers.

That said, I went with electronic torque adapters for my big stuff. I ordered Neikos from Amazon, a 3/4 drive (150-750 ft-lb) about 5 yrs ago, and more recently a 1/2 drive (29.5-147.5 ft-lb) to keep in my pickup. Both have been accurate enough for what I use them for, and very convenient since they work with the hand tools I already have. They have a trace function and a tone that chirps as you approach set torque, then solid tone when you hit it. If you don't need the precision of a clicker, these can be convenient and save a few dollars. For my semi truck lug nuts, I don't need the precision of a $800 clicker when an electronic adapter for under $100 does just fine.

Coincidentally, Harbor Freight sells these too, under their Quinn line.