Buying older motorhomes

jaybird said:

We bought this gem two years ago, as our " disposable" trial to see if we liked a class "C" from having TT's and truck mounted.  If we didn't like it, what was $4,500? I could get that back.

Well, this coach is one that we will NOT sell.

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jaybird you've given me some hope... that's exactly the style we are shopping for right now.  Any tips on older Ford Class C maintenance?  Have you had any problems with the manifold gaskets?  That's the problem I've been told just about every Ford has at some point or another.

scottydl said:

jaybird you've given me some hope... that's exactly the style we are shopping for right now.? Any tips on older Ford Class C maintenance?? Have you had any problems with the manifold gaskets?? That's the problem I've been told just about every Ford has at some point or another.

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Scotty:

As with any mechanical instrument, just keep the oil clean, trans full, and general "in your gut maintainance".
Have a good? PRE-TRIP check list before you pull out EVERY TIME.
One thing I did was to change to Synthetic "heavy duty" when I changed out the fluids in the torque converter.
I also use? ?DELO 10-30 heavy duty oil in the coach

Run it around the block twice a month or so, just to keep seals lubricated, and the chemicals in the tires that prevent UV rays for sitting.
Turn on ROOF A/C once or twice a month to keep the freeon and seals lubricated.

KEEP refer and freezer door OPEN so they do not have " nasty smelling". Keep air vents open in drive way to help dissapate the heat.

NOW FOR MANIFOLD BOLTS:

If you follow this " easy step" you should never have any problems..............

WE have two sons that are in the trucking industry, one is a p/d driver, the other is a certified educator  by the State of California to teach "class a's skills"

BOTH of them have told me, that we should at the end of a "long run", let the engine IDLE DOWN for seven or so minutes, to dissapate the heat on the manifolds.? This is what the big rigs do, the thing that breaks manifold bolts, is running long and hard, going into a petrol stop, and just shutting the engine off.? Warm air meeting cool air... PING there go the bolts.

Pull in any where, put in neutral, walk out, check the HEAT of the tires, ( if they are exceptionally hot, then you got trouble), write down mileage between last stop, and this stop, then shut 'er down.


jb

Wow   thanks for that in-depth explanation.  This is the 2nd time the "idling down" process has been recommended... the first time could have also been your advice in another thread.  But a question about that... don't engine generally run hotter at idle than when they are moving (and highway-speed winds are rushing through the engine compartment)?  How does idling for 5-7 minutes cool the engine?  Also could you elaborate on checking the heat of the tires?  Is that just feeling them by hand on the exterior, and if they are hot what does that mean?  Thx -

scottydl said:

Also could you elaborate on checking the heat of the tires?

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I use an infrared thermometer, available at RadioShack, Harbor Freight and other places. Whenever we stop, I walk around the coach and the toad, pointing the thermometer at each tire in turn. It gives me an instant readout of tire temperature.

I'm not necessarily looking for an absolute value, but for one that's out of line with the others. I know/expect that tires on the sunny side will be hotter than ones on the shady sideand that the inner tires of duallies will be hotter than the outers. So I take these factors into account when deciding if a tire is running "too hot".

Scotty ( and Tom)

Infrared monitor is " just another gadget" to me to carry.

Scotty:

Go outside and touch your tires with you hand they should be HOT from traveling, but not HOT enough to cause a burn.

What this does......

If the threads are hot, there is the possibility of thread separation AND TIRE FIRE.*? ?Ever notice all the road allygators on the freeway when you are driving?


idling down:

the AMBIENT AIR is not pushing thru the engine in a forward motion when you are not traveling, so if it idles downs gradually, there is no chance of heat vs cool air.


* YES, rubber tires can catch fire, and do alot of damage to occupants and the coach

Jaybird,

Aren't those alligators mainly the recaps used by truckers coming off?

As for an extra gadget to carry, the IRT is small and light and I don't need to wash my hands after feeling all the tires, nor will I burn my hands if a tire is really hot. So I'd prefer to carry and use the IRT. What you do is your choice.

Tom!

I was not finding fault with your infrared,

we all have our own way of doing things, that is what makes a forum great, many ideas to weigh.

Yes, tire" allygators " are mostly retreads, but thread separation can happen from hot tires or tire fires.


I have editied an "what to look for in purchasing a used RV" ebook ...........



jb

jaybird said:

I was not finding fault with your infrared...

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Didn't say or think that you did.

....we all have our own way of doing things...

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Yep, that's what I said.

Jaybird

On our way home a couple of weeks ago we contributed to the alligator population. The tire carcass stayed up and did not lose any air while the tread just peeled off. I've been told by a tire expert who I respect very much, that the nail puncture that I had repaired the day before was the cause. An air bubble was probably trapped in the tread and overheated while driving and blew the tread off the tire. Yeah the tire was hot but not that hot and the air pressure was at least 20#s less than the fronts.

Thanks for posting that Bernie. Didn't realize it was so easy for non-recaps to shed the tread like that. I learn something new every day.

Tom said:

Thanks for posting that Bernie. Didn't realize it was so easy for non-recaps to shed the tread like that. I learn something new every day.

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Tom you're slipping into old age. I posted the same info on 8/30/06 in my Bridgestone Truck Tire thread ;D ;D.

"Neil explained that delamination of the tire tread was probably due to the puncture repair. All truck radial tires are now one ply carcasses tho as strong as the 10-16 plies as their load ratings call for. When the puncture was repaired, there was probably some air leakage between the patch and the carcass support plies which probably blew off the tread when the air in the leakage pocket heated up with driving."

BernieD said:

Tom you're slipping into old age.

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"Slipped" is probably a more correct word Bernie    OTOH I've read every one of the 62,000+ messages here and have a tough time remembering all their content 

BernieD said:

...... that the nail puncture that I had repaired the day before was the cause. An air bubble was probably trapped in the tread and overheated while driving and blew the tread off the tire.  ........

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Bernie,

When they fixed your flat did they plug it? The Goodyear tire man we had at Westours told us that it was all right to fix a flat with a plug for a road side repair so you could get to a repair facility. Then have the tire taken off and have a patch put on the inside.

Alaskansnowbirds said:

When they fixed your flat did they plug it? The Goodyear tire man we had at Westours told us that it was all right to fix a flat with a plug for a road side repair so you could get to a repair facility. Then have the tire taken off and have a patch put on the inside.

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Don

No, it was patched at the service location. No plug was used.

Gasman,
**This thread has shifted from the original post so I am commenting to Mr. Gasman.**

Another good source for finding an RV would be Craigslist.org. I recently found a great buy in a 1984 Holiday Rambler Imperial 34' class A motor-home. This wasn't a planned purchase I just "happened" on it.
This has an all aluminum body, 7k gen, 2 roof AC units, separate ice maker, two door fridge/freezer, satellite, solar panels. 45k on odometer w/5k on rebuilt motor. I am tickled at this buy. I wasn't looking for it but I just happened to see it. Since then I have seen similar deals on CL. Everything works, everything. Taken it out several times this year. Nice unit for its age.

Oh I paid 3k for it!!

So Holiday Rambler I believe to be a really good RV. Love it!

http://ridgehosting.com/RV.JPG

Admin: Update your forum so we can post pictures, please....SMF 1.1RC3

TheDude said:

Admin: Update your forum so we can post pictures, please....SMF 1.1RC3

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Photos can be posted in the existing forum - as attachments. When posting, click Additional options, then Browse to find the photos on your hard drive.

Due to misuse by a few members, I disabled the ability to post images in the body of messages. Upgrading to SMF 1.1RC2 will not affect this because they'd still be disabled.

Nice looking HR.

Some experts I have talked to say that the "alligators" you speak of are usually new tires.  They have thicker tread than recaps, and if they are not up to required pressure, the heat and flexing stress causes the failure.  If there was a higher rate of tire failure with recap tires, they wouldn't be allowed in interstate commerce.....
Art

TheDude said:

Another good source for finding an RV would be Craigslist.org. I recently found a great buy in a 1984 Holiday Rambler Imperial 34' class A motor-home... Oh I paid 3k for it!!

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Dude, you have given me hope once again.  I would be just as tickled if I could find a deal like that!  I might even settle for an older Class A over a Class C for that price tag.  Lucky dog!    The fact that you say there have been similar deals is encouraging... I'll have to start checking Craigslist regularly.  Any search (or other) tips you have would be much appreciated.

Steve said:

Stay away from anything under the brand name Safari, built by SMC or models of Beaver if they were built by SMC.  The same would apply to Harney Coach, purchased by SMC in the late 90's. 

Safari eventually went out of business in about 2004 when their assets were bought by Monaco.  However from the mid 90's to the time they went out of business, their quality control was virtually non existent and their coaches were built with major and in many cases irreversible engineering flaws.  Safari's were dumped by their owners and though they can sometimes be bought  at seemingly attractive prices, they should be avoided at all costs.

Having had one and knowing many people first hand who owned them, I can substantiate my advice.

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I can't understand why Steve, CDN is so down on Safari products.  I'm a proud owner of a 2004 Safari Trek and couldn't be happier.  I participate in the Trek Tracks message board and enjoy our trips to Quartzsite in January where over 60 of us gather every year for fellowship and good times.  I like my Safari Trek and the quality built into it.  If you're looking for a lot of motorhome with a shorter profile, check out the Trek.

Regards,

Steve said:

Stay away from anything under the brand name Safari, built by SMC or models of Beaver if they were built by SMC.  The same would apply to Harney Coach, purchased by SMC in the late 90's. 

Safari eventually went out of business in about 2004 when their assets were bought by Monaco.  However from the mid 90's to the time they went out of business, their quality control was virtually non existent and their coaches were built with major and in many cases irreversible engineering flaws.  Safari's were dumped by their owners and though they can sometimes be bought  at seemingly attractive prices, they should be avoided at all costs.

Having had one and knowing many people first hand who owned them, I can substantiate my a
Regards,

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opinions are like noses,we all have one.
i have a beaver and know many beaver owners that are all happy with their rigs. to speak so harshly on a quality product is a shame in my opinion