A couple guages not working

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Boundiful

Boundiful

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Posts
90
Location
San Diego, CA
In my '91 Bounder my generator guage is stuck at 522 hours. If I leave the generator on for 10 or 20 minutes it just stays the same. The tenths wheel doesn't move either.

Any idea where to start looking to fix that?

And my gas tank guage for the MH is very unreliable. Sometimes it says it's full when I know it isn't. It seems to read at about 1/2 full or a little less all the time. I don't want to run out of gas so I just set the miles driven to 0 each time I get gas and figure I can get about 150 miles on $100 worth of gas or approximately 25 gallons. Not the best but hopefully it will keep me from running out. I rarely use the generator.

How many miles per gallon am I getting in that coach? I'm guessing 6mpg. That sound about right?

Thanks,

Boundiful
 
The hour meter has two leads coming off of the back of the gauge. With your generator running you should see 12 volts across the leads. If you do the gauge is bad, if not trace the positive wire to the generator and see if it is disconnected.
 
6 mpg is probably reasonable for your coach, in reality it probably does a bit better.  You could have a loose ground on the gas gauge at the tank, but that might be hard to check without dropping the tank.  My HR when it is TRULY full, the needle goes WAY past the F mark and will sit there for 200 miles or so.  Then it drops rapidly :-[
 
Use a voltmeter to test for 12VDC at the back of the hour meter when generator is running.  If you have voltage then the guage is bad if you don't have voltage then backtrack until you find the break/connection that is the issue.  Don't forget to check the negative as it could just be a bad ground.

As far as the fuel guage they use a potentiometer with an arm to detect fuel level.  These potentiometers can get a bad spot in them and read erroneous in certain positions (fuel levels).  The only way to correct the issue is to change the sending unit as the potentiometer is not available seperate.

If you are running the F53 Ford chassis with the 7.5l/460 cid engine and you are going to replace the sending unit, I suggest that you replace the fuel pump/sending unit as an assembly and use the factory Ford updated replacement rather than an aftermarket.  They are a little spendy but with the issues those are notorious for I wouldn't risk it with an aftermarket.

They have another upgraded part number from Ford.  I just replaced one last week in a clients motorhome, if you are interested let me know and I can provide you with the correct updated part number.  Mike.
 
zmotorsports said:
They have another upgraded part number from Ford.  I just replaced one last week in a clients motorhome, if you are interested let me know and I can provide you with the correct updated part number.  Mike.
Click to expand...
Might as well get that part number from you. I'll check it out. Gotta watch the cash flow these days but hopefully that will change soon and someday I can afford to get it taken care of.

Thanks.

Boundiful
 
Chris, the current Ford part number for the fuel pump/sending unit is F6PZ-9H307-BB.  The TSB that relates to this fuel pump issue is 97-23-9.  Any Ford dealer can pull up the TSB and get you the current information if it happens to change again.

There is a jumper wire # F7PZ-9A213-BB as well that the TSB says is required.  However, open the fuel pump prior to purchasing the jumper wire as the last several I have done had the pigtail/jumper wire in the box with the fuel pump even though the parts guys will tell you that it is seperate.

Mike.
 
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