Residential refrigerator installation, Cost, Recommendations

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sc4668

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Joined
Apr 18, 2017
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265
Location
Brooklyn, MI
I am looking for information on having a residential ref. installed in my 5th wheel. I currently have a Norcold N811RT installed that still works fine but I want a residential as we will be living full time for the next 6 to 8 months while are house is being built. I want an inverter with a transfer switch so the ref will run on battery when 110 ac is not available we do not boondock very much. I am looking for a price that someone that has done this has paid so I know if I am getting a fair price. Also what is a used working Norcold worth? Thanks, I appreciate any information or comments. I am also looking at the DC refrigerator that Home Depot sells want to compare between the two.
 
sc4668 said:
I currently have a Norcol 10 cf installed that still works fine but I want a residential as we will be living full time for the next 6 to 8 months while are house is being built.

Just out of curiosity, if the fridge is working fine, why do you want to replace it?
 
I am replacing the refrigerator because I want frozen ice cream and a larger capacity refrigerator.
 
Bill, did you install the refrigerator yourself? Did you also install an inverter and transfer switch? By the way the batteries I got from you are working real nice, thanks again.
 
FYI - I purchased a 1200 watt inverter with a built-in automatic transfer switch. Works great.
 
sc4668 said:
I am replacing the refrigerator because I want frozen ice cream and a larger capacity refrigerator.


Understand, was just curious
 
I replaced my Norcold ref  4 years ago.i had a Samsung RF18 installed. I bought refrigerator at Lowe?s for about $1200, installation was about $1500. I lost a small cabinet above old refer. otherwise it fit well. I bought Samsung because I did not need to change inverter. Best money I have spent on MH.
 
We have an 06 Itasca ellipse we had a 3 door norcold. I don?t know the model. It was 32 inch wide. I don?t recall the height. I suspect it was about 60 in. The Samsung is on a platform that stick out in front from the surrounding cabinets about 3 in..This platform is above our furnace. Wife can?t reach top shelf. I can. It takes about 2 hrs to get cold enough to load. Holds more than enough food for two. We only dry camp overnight, so it does not drain batteries. We leave it on while we travel. We are happy with the installation and refer.
 
The AIMS 1200 watt pure sine inverter with auto-transfer switch is one good choice, but there are several other brands that are similar. Usually under $200.

It's very difficult to estimate the cost of a conversion because each RV model and floor plan can have unique challenges in wiring, cabinet mods, getting the fridge inside, etc. And having an RV dealer do the work is always pricey - they overcharge for everything. A handyman or independent shop is probably better, if you can find one.

Some folks try to fit in an 18-21 cu ft fridge, but you can get a 10-14 cubic ft residential fridge for around $500-$600 and they fit easily in most RVs. Usually they can be fit through the entry door and also fit in the existing opening. That's still about 50% bigger than the N811 plus its colder, more reliable, chills the interior evenly and freezes ice cream properly.
 
Thanks for the info . I found a Frigidaire 10.1 cf that is $585 at Home Depot size is depth 26.25
Height 59.875 and width 23.75 it is almost a direct replacement for the ruff opening for the Norcold installation drawings. How do you secure the refrigerator in the opening and do I remove the rollers at the both of the refrigerator?  Looks like a easy installation.
 
Make sure you come up with a way to secure the door shut while traveling.  If you don't, you could or will end up with scrambled eggs when you get to your destination. 
 
Seems like I always buy two of whatever I need.

Here is a free set of safety latches.  They are really needed on the road.

The catch is that you have to stop by Lake Havasu City for a free dinner here at our new home and pick them up.
 

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http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,116280.msg1051938.html#msg1051938

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?action=profile;u=35260;area=showposts;start=210

 
Some fridges have feet that can be manually lowered to prevent rolling,  but I would also add some sort of wheel block or retainer to make sure it stayed in place in case the RV ever makes a violent turn (stuff happens!),  I used 3/16" aluminum angle to make retainer brackets for my 14.6 cu ft GE and screwed them to the surrounding wood frame.  Two at the bottom and two at the top. Also a 1/16" aluminum angle retainer at each side, just gripping the edge where the door seals. Sometimes a little creativity is required to find unobtrusive ways to fit retainers.

I may have been a bit overcautious, but I had recently seen photos of a Winnebago factory install where the fridge had shifted in a sharp turn and torn the upper wood retainer framing right out of the wall.  The fridge tilted out of its hole and into the aisle.  A 150# fridge on the move at 55 mph packs a lot of energy!
 
Thanks everyone for their input. I am going with the Frigidaire 10.1 cf model and a AIMS 1200 watt inverter with the automatic transfer. Going to start the removal of the NorCold N811RT tomorrow and prep for the install. If anyone need a good working NorCold at a reasonable  let me know tomorrow
 
Used RV fridges are in demand, but connecting with a potential buyer in your local area is difficult, making a sale unlikely.  And it has to be local pick-up, cause packing & shipping is too difficult and expensive.  You might try Craigslist.


I removed a working Norcold 1200, of which there are many in the RV world.  I thought sure someone would want at least parts of it, e.g. the glass shelves, door hinges and latches, control boards, etc.  NADA. The only interest came from remote locations and it was neither economic nor practical to get the parts to them.  They seemed to expect that I would disassemble, pack & ship and they would pay only $5- $10 to cover costs. I wasn't looking to make a profit, but even the main control board cost more than that to ship and my level of effort was well beyond trivial.  I ended up sending the board to a good friend who might need one some day and didn't charge him anything. I kept the smaller parts for a year but ended up throwing them away.
 

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