I think my water heater ruptured!! Need help!

[_Rusty_]

It looks like the vents directly above the HW heater (outside) are possibly refridgerator related. There most certainly is an access on the inside related to this. Is there any chance there is a fridge issue? Mine has an ice maker that sprung a leak once, but it wasn't a gusher.

 

[John From Detroit]

Oh I recall when my Rig was new and the dealer was installing the baseplate on my 1st towed.. i walked with the service consultant and an insurance adjuster through the service bays The Adjuster stopped at a ruptured water heater. I said to the consultant "Forgot to drain it over winter"? he replied "Yup". I never made that mistake.

 

[Daveedothegreat]

Thanks to your tips, and advice, I found the bypass, and bypassed the hot water heater. It seems it is ruptured, but now we have water, im looking into replacing the water heater now. Thanks to everyone who helped me. I need to find a new manual shut off valve, for my fridge now. It seems to be leaking when I turn on the propane. There are a few little fixes I need to make. Someone did not winterize this rv when they stored it.

 

[scottydl]

For future reference if anyone else has a similar RV (and to satisfy our curiosity)... where was the tank access and bypass valves?

 

[Daveedothegreat]

The bypass was threw a vent just under the refrigerator, and when I bypassed the heater tank, water came on, but only cold until I replace the HW tank. The a/c in the bedroom stopped operating as well. This rv came with two. They both used to come on and work, and now the a/c system in the bedroom, doesn’t turn on at all, it has to be electrical. It worked as of two days ago. There is a front/rear switch above the microwave, and now when it’s switched to rear it will not work.

 

[Rene T]

The bypass was threw a vent just under the refrigerator, and when I bypassed the heater tank, water came on, but only cold until I replace the HW tank. The a/c in the bedroom stopped operating as well. This rv came with two. They both used to come on and work, and now the a/c system in the bedroom, doesn’t turn on at all, it has to be electrical. It worked as of two days ago. There is a front/rear switch above the microwave, and now when it’s switched to rear it will not work.

Can you start another post with all the details like the make and model of the AC and the thermostat and what you’ve done so far for troubleshooting.

 

[John Canfield]

..... The a/c in the bedroom stopped operating as well. This rv came with two. They both used to come on and work, and now the a/c system in the bedroom, doesn’t turn on at all, it has to be electrical. It worked as of two days ago. There is a front/rear switch above the microwave, and now when it’s switched to rear it will not work.

Do you have roof airs or the packaged unit at the rear of your RV (usually called basement air?)

 

[Daveedothegreat]

We have roof mounted a/c’s.

 

[sabodyan]

Try checking the temperature and pressure reducing valve (T&P). If the temperature rises, thermal expansion can further increase the pressure in the tank, damaging the hot water tank leading to a leak.

 

[NY_Dutch]

Try checking the temperature and pressure reducing valve (T&P). If the temperature rises, thermal expansion can further increase the pressure in the tank, damaging the hot water tank leading to a leak.

The thread you're replying to is from last April, so presumably the issue has been addressed by now. The OP had already posted that the area inside the service door of the water heater was dry though, ruling out the T&P valve. Given the location the rig was stored in, it's likely the tank was allowed to freeze with water in it.