Onan 2800 Microlite Generator sustained running issue.

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Selkirkslim, thanks for your info.
Spec code is Spec:K
Same as mine then.

Look at the AC spec sticker on the side of it, IF it's still there and note the amp draw.
Most AC units will suck up about 12-15 amps on start up and drop back to around 12 when running.
Look at the sticker on the side of that freezer, add that amp draw to the AC unit and that's your sum total of what you're asking that 2800 to do.

IF, it's over 25 amps on start up, that old girl is gonna be huffin and a puffin just to get goin and keep up.

Offhand Archies, this all sounds as if it's a fuel delivery issue; i.e. liquid fuel making it to where it has to be versus a vapor form which is worthless to the carb and cylinders.
 
It has always ran everything just fine, I've had this set up since 2006. Just recently it has started doing this. I'm going to change the fuel filter even though I think it's fairly new. Fuel line running to the gas tank is also new. Going to start with the cheapest fixes first.
 
It has always ran everything just fine, I've had this set up since 2006. Just recently it has started doing this. I'm going to change the fuel filter even though I think it's fairly new. Fuel line running to the gas tank is also new. Going to start with the cheapest fixes first.
Fuel filter, air filter ( on the off chance it needs one) , pull the plug and take a gander at it while you're at it.

Aside from that, the only other issue I can think of is it's just not getting enough air flow?

It's very difficult to Dx an engine or that sorta thing over the wires.

Hope some of this has helped.
 
Selkirkslim
You actually brought up a good point about the air flow. I put sound proof around the generator. I think that may be the problem with it blocking air flow. Going to remove it. Good point and thank you
 
Hello new to this site and I just searched “Microlite” and found this thread.

So my Microlite 2800 is about 15 years old but I run it all the time, tons of hours on it but I maintenance the heck out of it and that’s probably why it has lasted so long but recentry when I’m driving with it running and the ac is on or off even, it shuts off. It won’t start back up by the remote but it does when I hold the governor arm all the way wide open(I think open) and press start button at the generator.
This is a new issue I’ve been having the last 2 or 3 drives. Oil is clean and perfect at the full mark.
I was wondering about that video posted by dontom about the oil needing to be just above the fill line. Does that do the trick?
Anyone care to chime in?

Thank you

You should probably repost this as a new question so as not to confound the original question and also to highlight your specific problem.

My generator was exhibiting similar issues - I call it hot shut down. As the engine heats up it needs a "leaner" mixture. All I had to do was to lean out the idle and run needles within spec.

An indicator of rich running will be a gassy smell when trying to start and probably a sooty exhaust.
 
Selkirkslim
You actually brought up a good point about the air flow. I put sound proof around the generator. I think that may be the problem with it blocking air flow. Going to remove it. Good point and thank you
Depending on how recently you installed that sound proofing, that's more than likely your leading problem.

The exhaust baffling on the inside of that is generally there for a reason and it was well thought out and designed by Cummins before they put it out for sale.

So I would start there .

Welcome.
 
You should probably repost this as a new question so as not to confound the original question and also to highlight your specific problem.

My generator was exhibiting similar issues - I call it hot shut down. As the engine heats up it needs a "leaner" mixture. All I had to do was to lean out the idle and run needles within spec.

An indicator of rich running will be a gassy smell when trying to start and probably a sooty exhaust.
The possible points to ponder are endless.
 
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