No Hot Water from Electric

[DaleandKarla]

I have a hot water heater on my 2008 Itasca Latitude that gives me the option of propane or electric 110V heat. The electric option does not seem to be working. Switch lights up, no breakers appear to be tripped, but no hot water. Propane heat works just fine. Is this the heating element? Anything else it could be? What are my troubleshooting steps?

 

[DonTom]

I have a hot water heater on my 2008 Itasca Latitude that gives me the option of propane or electric 110V heat. The electric option does not seem to be working. Switch lights up, no breakers appear to be tripped, but no hot water. Propane heat works just fine. Is this the heating element? Anything else it could be? What are my troubleshooting steps?

You probably should mention the make and model number of water heater, so we at least know what is in it.

FWIW, I wouldn't expect 120 VAC to heat up water all that fast. Probably takes a lot longer than propane.

But troubleshooting heating elements is usually quite simple. But first we need to know what we're dealing with. Make and model of the water heater will be helpful.

-Don- St. Cloud, FL

 

[PancakeBill]

Do you have a multi-meter? aka VOM. with breaker off measure resistance at element on back of water heater. With breaker on measure voltage at element.

This will determine if eement is bad or something wrong in circuit.

 

[Rene T]

Do you remember by chance accidentally turning on the power for heating electrically and then realized that the tank was not full of water?
If it is a bad element it’s not a big deal. They are available at Lowes and Home Depot for around $12.00. You’ll look for a 110 volt AC 1400/1500 Watt element. It will be about 8” long. They also have a wrench on the same display to swap out the elements.

 

[CharlesinGA]

The water heater circuit breaker is the 20 amp on the far right in the breaker panel. You should open it and then reclose it. Do not just depend on it looking or seeming to be in the correct position, Breakers will trip and not show it on occasion. Your system is complicated somewhat by the fact that the power from the breaker goes to an EMS control module (load shed) and from the EMS module it goes to the water heater.

Are you by chance on 30 amp power rather than 50 amp now? Depending on what you have operating, the EMS may be shedding the power from the water heater in favor of another more needy appliance or device.

The electric heat element for the Atwood GCH10A-4E water heater (WBO p/n 145541-01-000 Water Htr-10, Gas/120/IGN, REM) is located on the INBOARD side of the water heater near the bottom under a plastic cover. There is a miniature relay in that plastic box also that is controlled by 12v DC from the WH control board via a yellow wire that runs over the top of the WH from the outside.

Does the water heater heat when the engine has been operating? (it has a heat exchanger to allow it to be heated from the engine cooling system much like the heater in your car, however it may not be connected)

There are access panels on the inside that will get you into the plumbing and wiring on the inboard side of the water heater.

Its quite possible that the element was burned up in the past by being energized with no water in the tank

WBO breaks up the wiring into four different sets, depending on the model and serial number.

• IPM37G (Serial Number begins with 70M84J2)
• IPM37G (Serial Number begins with 70M84J3)
• IPM39W (Serial Number begins with 70M91J2)
• IPM39W (Serial Number begins with 70M91J3)

These links will take you to the complete wiring diagrams and installation drawings for your Latitude, if you select the correct one based on model and s/n.

Plumbing drawings, also depending on model....

• IPM37G (Serial Number begins with 70M84J2)
• IPM37G (Serial Number begins with 70M84J3)
• IPM39W (Serial Number begins with 70M91J2)
• IPM39W (Serial Number begins with 70M91J3)

Atwood water heater service manual for all models and configurations, this is a 2004 manual but the water heaters are basically unchanged for the early 2000's

http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Atwood-Water-Heater-Service-manual.pdf

Charles

 

[CharlesinGA]

You probably should mention the make and model number of water heater, so we at least know what is in it.

FWIW, I wouldn't expect 120 VAC to heat up water all that fast. Probably takes a lot longer than propane.

But troubleshooting heating elements is usually quite simple. But first we need to know what we're dealing with. Make and model of the water heater will be helpful.

-Don- St. Cloud, FL

According to the Winnebago plumbing drawings they have an Atwood GCH10A-4E

My experience with the 6 gallon heater is that you have good hot water in about 30 mins, a 10 gal model may take 45 mins to heat. Once heated it will stay hot for hours.

Charles

 

[Scott 3]

Check on the outside of the tank for a little on/off switch.

 

[Rene T]

Check on the outside of the tank for a little on/off switch.

That’s only for a Suburban heater. According to Charles, it’s suppose to be a Atwood.

 

[Isaac-1]

If you have a multimeter it is easy to check to see if the electric heating element is working, there are youtube videos that show you how. It is very common for these electric heating elements to burn out on RV's as all it takes is turning on the electric heating switch for a second while the water is drained from the tank for it to burn out.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Solid advice from Charles! The most likely causes are a tripped breaker or load shed (if using 30A shore power). Reset the breaker and check the Powerline display to verify that it has NOT removed power from the heater.
If those checks prove ok, then you will need to verify at the heater element itself, which is on the back (inboard) side of the water heater. You may have to remove a wood panel or drawer to get access. Others have described how to check the element already.

 

[Kirk]

WBO breaks up the wiring into four different sets, depending on the model and serial number.

It sure would be nice if all manufacturers had those drawings available to owners!

What are my troubleshooting steps?

Update us on how you are doing and if successful? We can probably give more help if you let us know what steps you have taken and what you find, if needed.

 

[Krazeehorse33]

If you don't have a non-contact AC voltage detector add one to your tool kit. You can touch it to the connector on the heating element and determine if you have voltage there or not. You can do that with your VOM obviously but this is much quicker and easier. If you have voltage there when the switch is on and it's not heating then it almost has to be the element.

 

[DaleandKarla]

You probably should mention the make and model number of water heater, so we at least know what is in it.

FWIW, I wouldn't expect 120 VAC to heat up water all that fast. Probably takes a lot longer than propane.

But troubleshooting heating elements is usually quite simple. But first we need to know what we're dealing with. Make and model of the water heater will be helpful.

-Don- St. Cloud, FL

Thanks Don, It is a Atwood GCH10A-4E. Lots of great advice in this thread for me to troubleshoot. I'll report back here once I have a chance to try to diagnose and repair.

 

[DaleandKarla]

Do you have a multi-meter? aka VOM. with breaker off measure resistance at element on back of water heater. With breaker on measure voltage at element.

This will determine if eement is bad or something wrong in circuit.

Thank you so much Bill. Yes, a VOM was one of my first tool investments for this RV. Sounds like it is exactly what I need to diagnose the issue. I'll report back here when I know more.

 

[DaleandKarla]

Do you remember by chance accidentally turning on the power for heating electrically and then realized that the tank was not full of water?
If it is a bad element it’s not a big deal. They are available at Lowes and Home Depot for around $12.00. You’ll look for a 110 volt AC 1400/1500 Watt element. It will be about 8” long. They also have a wrench on the same display to swap out the elements.

Thanks Rene - I have a bad feeling I may have done this actually. Lots of great advice in this tread for confirming its the element or something else. I'll report back!

 

[DaleandKarla]

The water heater circuit breaker is the 20 amp on the far right in the breaker panel. You should open it and then reclose it. Do not just depend on it looking or seeming to be in the correct position, Breakers will trip and not show it on occasion. Your system is complicated somewhat by the fact that the power from the breaker goes to an EMS control module (load shed) and from the EMS module it goes to the water heater.

Are you by chance on 30 amp power rather than 50 amp now? Depending on what you have operating, the EMS may be shedding the power from the water heater in favor of another more needy appliance or device.

The electric heat element for the Atwood GCH10A-4E water heater (WBO p/n 145541-01-000 Water Htr-10, Gas/120/IGN, REM) is located on the INBOARD side of the water heater near the bottom under a plastic cover. There is a miniature relay in that plastic box also that is controlled by 12v DC from the WH control board via a yellow wire that runs over the top of the WH from the outside.

Does the water heater heat when the engine has been operating? (it has a heat exchanger to allow it to be heated from the engine cooling system much like the heater in your car, however it may not be connected)

There are access panels on the inside that will get you into the plumbing and wiring on the inboard side of the water heater.

Its quite possible that the element was burned up in the past by being energized with no water in the tank

WBO breaks up the wiring into four different sets, depending on the model and serial number.

• IPM37G (Serial Number begins with 70M84J2)
• IPM37G (Serial Number begins with 70M84J3)
• IPM39W (Serial Number begins with 70M91J2)
• IPM39W (Serial Number begins with 70M91J3)

These links will take you to the complete wiring diagrams and installation drawings for your Latitude, if you select the correct one based on model and s/n.

Plumbing drawings, also depending on model....

• IPM37G (Serial Number begins with 70M84J2)
• IPM37G (Serial Number begins with 70M84J3)
• IPM39W (Serial Number begins with 70M91J2)
• IPM39W (Serial Number begins with 70M91J3)

Atwood water heater service manual for all models and configurations, this is a 2004 manual but the water heaters are basically unchanged for the early 2000's

http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Atwood-Water-Heater-Service-manual.pdf

Charles

Wow! - thank you so much for the detailed advice and links, Charles. I appreciate you taking the time to provide all that. I should be able to get to it this week and will report back with what I find out! I am on 50A power and the heat exchanger with the engine does seem to be working. The water is quite warm at the faucet after a day of driving.

 

[DaleandKarla]

It sure would be nice if all manufacturers had those drawings available to owners!

Update us on how you are doing and if successful? We can probably give more help if you let us know what steps you have taken and what you find, if needed.

Thanks Kirk - lots of great advice and steps to take in this thread. Yes, I'll absolutely update on the thread once I have a chance to check it out. Thanks again!

 

[DaleandKarla]

If you don't have a non-contact AC voltage detector add one to your tool kit. You can touch it to the connector on the heating element and determine if you have voltage there or not. You can do that with your VOM obviously but this is much quicker and easier. If you have voltage there when the switch is on and it's not heating then it almost has to be the element.

Makes sense - thank you so much, Kevin! I'll check it out and report back.

 

[DaleandKarla]

Solid advice from Charles! The most likely causes are a tripped breaker or load shed (if using 30A shore power). Reset the breaker and check the Powerline display to verify that it has NOT removed power from the heater.
If those checks prove ok, then you will need to verify at the heater element itself, which is on the back (inboard) side of the water heater. You may have to remove a wood panel or drawer to get access. Others have described how to check the element already.

Thanks Gary - I'll go through some of the diagnostic steps in the thread and report back!

 

[DaleandKarla]

Update - I was able to test the resistance at the electrical element. It seems to be OK, read about 10-11 ohms. When I turned on power to the WH, no voltage registered across the element. I started pulling the wires off the thermostat to ensure they were connected properly and ended up pulling the thermostat off before the wire would release. I'm going to replace the thermostat and thermal cut off kit before going any further. They look like they've been there for while, so a new set won't hurt. Then I'll pick up with the troubleshooting at that point.