WD 40 or Corosion C

[NY_Dutch]

The original WD40 is not a lubricant, when it dries it forms a sticky film that insulates after water is displaced and the carrier has evaporated.
Calling it a lubricant is not wrong though, even water can be a lubricant.

WD40 is 30-35% base oil according to their MSDS. "Lubricant" is the first thing listed under "Product Use". Of course it's not the correct lubricant for all purposes. That one doesn't exist...

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Agree with NY Dutch; WD40 is a lubricant as well as a water displacer, but a light duty one. It doesn't hold up well under heavy friction or have a lot of "cling", and it's a bit gummy for precision machinery (sewing machines, fishing reels, etc). But it works fine for a squeaky interior door hinge or sticking latch.

 

[Tom]

I'm a great believer in using the right tool for the job, so I use a variety of products, e.g. WD40, penetrating oils (Kroil is my favorite), Kwikee KwikLube lubricant, Boeshield T9 corrosion blocker, and white lithium grease. If I could have only one, it would probably be the KwikLube, but WD40 would be close as a general purpose lube & loosener. I use those two often around the house and car.

The KwikLube is a spray that lubricates well, clings for months even outdoors, provides some corrosion blocking, and doesn't have a residual aroma (that I can smell anyway).

This caught my eye in their ad, interesting:

"... this formula goes from a penetrating fluid to protective grease in minutes"

 

[Tulecreeper]

Thanks for all the info. Definitely do not want to carry multiple cans if I can get one that does well for most of the items listed. Interesting no mention of Corosion C in responses. I watched a video about it the other day but don't know much about it.

I tried to find "Corosion C" in a search and nothing comes up. I have never heard of it. I have several cans of "Corrosion X" HD in my shop, though. I don't use it as a lubricant, but it makes a super excellent corrosion inhibitor. I use it on my battery connectors and it prevents them from sulfating (that white powder that builds up), and it last a really long time. I only have to wipe them down and reapply about twice a year.

 

[BoomerTX]

Good catch and my apologies. Corrosion X is what I watched the video about not 'C'.

 

[Probe1957]

Corrosion-X is definitely good stuff but it is spendy.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Corrosion-X is definitely good stuff but it is spendy.

Yes, it is. But the two cans I have in my shop I bought probably 10 or 12 years ago and the propellant is still there so they last a long time.

 

[Rene T]

Yes, it is. But the two cans I have in my shop I bought probably 10 or 12 years ago and the propellant is still there so they last a long time.

It will last alot longer if you don’t use it.

 

[Tulecreeper]

It will last alot longer if you don’t use it.

Very true, but since I only use it as a sulfate inhibitor on my battery terminals I probably have a lifetime supply.

 

[Ray-IN]

The only time sulfation occurs is when there is a leak of acid fumes or liquid around the battery posts.
I have Interstate AGM start batteries in my MH without any signs of corrosion since 2013. I'll see it if they begin leaking vapors or liquid.

 

[Tulecreeper]

The only time sulfation occurs is when there is a leak of acid fumes or liquid around the battery posts.
I have Interstate AGM start batteries in my MH without any signs of corrosion since 2013. I'll see it if they begin leaking vapors or liquid.

Yes, that would be the route to go to get rid of the sulfation. I've always used flooded cell batteries.