Cheap handling fix with adjustable links?

[Deb&RickTX]

You might want to consider getting polyurethane sway bar bushings from skuterdude at the same time.

I've considered that as well, but for the future. This rig had just over 8k miles on it when we purchased it in Dec so the bushings are in very good shape right now. The end link bushings look like they might be poly already. Just the bar bushings appear to be standard rubber. Either way, we just want to try it and see if it helps. If this is enough, upgrading the bushings later is a possibility. If instead we need to change bars, they come with poly bushings.

Shocks are also a consideration. At present it has standard Ford shocks. Bilstein or Koni might be considered in the future. Any opinions on which to prefer? Bilsteins are definitely cheaper. I've heard good things about each.

Thanks,
Rick

 

[Boat Bum]

Ford engineers put those two adjustments there and I'm sure they've been tested anything outside of that has not gone through the same testing by Ford engineers and thus would be suspect to me.

 

[RRR]

I've considered that as well, but for the future. This rig had just over 8k miles on it when we purchased it in Dec so the bushings are in very good shape right now. The end link bushings look like they might be poly already. Just the bar bushings appear to be standard rubber. Either way, we just want to try it and see if it helps. If this is enough, upgrading the bushings later is a possibility. If instead we need to change bars, they come with poly bushings.

Shocks are also a consideration. At present it has standard Ford shocks. Bilstein or Koni might be considered in the future. Any opinions on which to prefer? Bilsteins are definitely cheaper. I've heard good things about each.

Thanks,
Rick

Ford switched to poly swaybar bushings in about 2012. My 2016 has them.

The CHF is the first thing I did. Only thing for me is the front wheels come off the ground sooner. As long as the rear are on solid ground I'm good.

Edit: Should have said the CHF made a large improvement and the only negative was front wheels raising sooner.

 

[Deb&RickTX]

4/29/’23

Received the plates today. Started with the back before they arrived. Probably should have ordered the rear poly bushing set. Rubber bushings in link ends weren't degraded horribly, but definitely were locked into the surrounding metal parts. Had to disassemble the whole structure to get things to fit.



The front was a lot cleaner. The links had what appeared to be poly bushings already. The issue there was the bolts on the bar bushing brackets. Took some WD-40 and a good breaker bar to get them loose enough to move the bar. The plates fit perfectly. Good thing I had just purchased a 16mm socket since the bolt heads supplied for the plates were 16 not 15mm. I didn’t have a box end or other wrench in that size. (Had 15 and 17). No problem. Probably a better bolt. Just an FYI for other purchasers.



All-in-all, I’m very pleased with the product, and especially with his communication and support.

Will take her on a shake down run tomorrow. Our first expedition is scheduled for the following

weekend.



5/1/’23

Took her out for a shakedown run yesterday. Though not a complete fix, the improvement is noticeable. Much less roll in turns and less reaction to road irregularities. I’m much more comfortable with the handling already. Our next trip to a state park should tell us more.



I definitely recommend Eric (Skuterdude) as the source for these plates. He has been responsive and helpful in a timely manner throughout. At some point I’ll probably get the rear bushings from him as well.

Rick

 

[Boat Bum]

Wow, for someone who was afraid of changing the geometry there sure is a lot of change going on there, more so than the simple adjustment intended by Ford. I hope it works well for you.

 

[Onyrlef]

4/29/’23

Received the plates today. Started with the back before they arrived. Probably should have ordered the rear poly bushing set. Rubber bushings in link ends weren't degraded horribly, but definitely were locked into the surrounding metal parts. Had to disassemble the whole structure to get things to fit.



The front was a lot cleaner. The links had what appeared to be poly bushings already. The issue there was the bolts on the bar bushing brackets. Took some WD-40 and a good breaker bar to get them loose enough to move the bar. The plates fit perfectly. Good thing I had just purchased a 16mm socket since the bolt heads supplied for the plates were 16 not 15mm. I didn’t have a box end or other wrench in that size. (Had 15 and 17). No problem. Probably a better bolt. Just an FYI for other purchasers.



All-in-all, I’m very pleased with the product, and especially with his communication and support.

Will take her on a shake down run tomorrow. Our first expedition is scheduled for the following

weekend.



5/1/’23

Took her out for a shakedown run yesterday. Though not a complete fix, the improvement is noticeable. Much less roll in turns and less reaction to road irregularities. I’m much more comfortable with the handling already. Our next trip to a state park should tell us more.



I definitely recommend Eric (Skuterdude) as the source for these plates. He has been responsive and helpful in a timely manner throughout. At some point I’ll probably get the rear bushings from him as well.

Rick

Did you drive up on the blocks to make it easier to do the install?

 

[Deb&RickTX]

Wow, for someone who was afraid of changing the geometry there sure is a lot of change going on there, more so than the simple adjustment intended by Ford. I hope it works well for you.

The plates Preserve the geometry to a large extent. Look at the angle between the links and the bar. Without the plates the links are too short to connect with the second hole without developing a very obtuse angle. A longer link could accomplish the same purpose, but the plates are a bit less work. (Don't have to remove the link from the frame). And as a bonus, having 3 holes to pick from allows a choice in degree of added torsion.

 

[Deb&RickTX]

Did you drive up on the blocks to make it easier to do the install?

Yes. I'm an old pfart so having a few extra inches clearance helps. Safer than trusting levelers to stay put.

 

[Old_Crow]

I know it works, but f it'd been me building those plates, I'd have trimmed the upper corners to make the piece look less like a chunk of metal and more like an actual bracket. I've just built too many tabs and brackets for motorcycle frames and classic cars over the years to let that square piece of plate ride.
If I ever decide to do the front I'm just going to extend the links with a piece of DOM tubing and be done with it.

Did you happen to take the coach for a ride after you did the rears and before you did the front? I know what just doing the rear did, just curious to see if it's worth doing the front.

 

[Onyrlef]

Yes. I'm an old pfart so having a few extra inches clearance helps. Safer than trusting levelers to stay put.

Heard that, besides crawling under one with only the levelers between you and being crushed is not a great idea. I'm guilty of having done it a time or two but when I'm going to be under it awhile I raise it with the levelers and position jack stands just in case.

 

[Old_Crow]

Heard that, besides crawling under one with only the levelers between you and being crushed is not a great idea. I'm guilty of having done it a time or two but when I'm going to be under it awhile I raise it with the levelers and position jack stands just in case.

That's just silly. You aren't taking the tires and wheels off to do this project. If you can crawl under the thing when it's just sitting there, but just want a bit more room to work, use the jacks. If they fail, the worst that happens is the coach sits back down on it's wheels and you can wiggle out from under it.

If you're removing the wheels and tires or you can't actually fit under thing without raising it, ignore this advice.

 

[Onyrlef]

That's just silly. You aren't taking the tires and wheels off to do this project. If you can crawl under the thing when it's just sitting there, but just want a bit more room to work, use the jacks. If they fail, the worst that happens is the coach sits back down on it's wheels and you can wiggle out from under it.

If you're removing the wheels and tires or you can't actually fit under thing without raising it, ignore this advice.

Really? So your advice is ignore the warning in the manual which specifically says never go under the MH while it's up on the leveling jacks because you have an opinion otherwise? Meantime, there are a number of places under a MH that if the jacks fail and you happen to be under that area with no secondary support, you'd be crushed.

 

[NY_Dutch]

Really? So your advice is ignore the warning in the manual which specifically says never go under the MH while it's up on the leveling jacks because you have an opinion otherwise? Meantime, there are a number of places under a MH that if the jacks fail and you happen to be under that area with no secondary support, you'd be crushed.

I can crawl anywhere under my motorhome except under the axles without extending the jacks. I do extend the jacks a bit for some extra "wiggle" room though for some projects, without worrying about a jack failing. My previous motorhome was just as easy to work under, and I did that when I installed the jack system it was lacking when I bought it.

 

[Larry N.]

That's just silly. You aren't taking the tires and wheels off to do this project. If you can crawl under the thing when it's just sitting there, but just want a bit more room to work, use the jacks. If they fail, the worst that happens is the coach sits back down on it's wheels and you can wiggle out from under it.

If you're removing the wheels and tires or you can't actually fit under thing without raising it, ignore this advice.

That depends on the coach, Wally. I can't fit under mine (nor under my previous coach, a Beaver) when the bags are aired down, which happens anytime that I extend the levelers -- it dumps the air first -- and in any case over time. So while that may be true on many gassers, it's less likely to be true on a DP.

Care is needed on things like this.

 

[Boat Bum]

I was pleased to find I can slide under my coach and access everything serviceable w/o raising it.

 

[Deb&RickTX]

I know it works, but f it'd been me building those plates, I'd have trimmed the upper corners to make the piece look less like a chunk of metal and more like an actual bracket. I've just built too many tabs and brackets for motorcycle frames and classic cars over the years to let that square piece of plate ride.
If I ever decide to do the front I'm just going to extend the links with a piece of DOM tubing and be done with it.

Did you happen to take the coach for a ride after you did the rears and before you did the front? I know what just doing the rear did, just curious to see if it's worth doing the front.

I'll agree the outline could be more eloquently done. If I were to build them I'd at least radius the front lower corner to match the bar front. That said, the guy I got these from was a friend of the original supplier of these plates. Though they are his design he's now in his 80's and turned over the "business" to Eric. From what I gather from my conversation with Eric, the design is evolving. But this is what he has in stock now. Very simple design, but I don't happen to have access to a 100 ton press so my making them is out of the question. Extending the links is a good idea. In fact that is what started me asking the original question on this thread. My limitations also come into play there. My welding skills are almost non-existent. And my knowledge of metallurgy is too rudimentary to pick the correct tubing for an extension. So I just went with what I could do. This weekend should tell us more.

 

[RRR]

That's just silly. You aren't taking the tires and wheels off to do this project. If you can crawl under the thing when it's just sitting there, but just want a bit more room to work, use the jacks. If they fail, the worst that happens is the coach sits back down on it's wheels and you can wiggle out from under it.

If you're removing the wheels and tires or you can't actually fit under thing without raising it, ignore this advice.

Right up to the point that a jack fails and you are twisted around with a body part where it will get crushed. Even it it doesn't kill you compressing your head a couple of inches likely will hurt.

 

[Onyrlef]

I can crawl anywhere under my motorhome except under the axles without extending the jacks. I do extend the jacks a bit for some extra "wiggle" room though for some projects, without worrying about a jack failing. My previous motorhome was just as easy to work under, and I did that when I installed the jack system it was lacking when I bought it.

I can crawl anywhere under my motorhome except under the axles without extending the jacks. I do extend the jacks a bit for some extra "wiggle" room though for some projects, without worrying about a jack failing. My previous motorhome was just as easy to work under, and I did that when I installed the jack system it was lacking when I bought it.

You're a sample of one. The warnings advising against crawling beneath a MH up on leveling jacks are for those who aren't so reassured by anecdotal accounts of "I did it and survived so that means it's perfectly safe for everyone".

 

[Onyrlef]

I'll agree the outline could be more eloquently done. If I were to build them I'd at least radius the front lower corner to match the bar front. That said, the guy I got these from was a friend of the original supplier of these plates. Though they are his design he's now in his 80's and turned over the "business" to Eric. From what I gather from my conversation with Eric, the design is evolving. But this is what he has in stock now. Very simple design, but I don't happen to have access to a 100 ton press so my making them is out of the question. Extending the links is a good idea. In fact that is what started me asking the original question on this thread. My limitations also come into play there. My welding skills are almost non-existent. And my knowledge of metallurgy is too rudimentary to pick the correct tubing for an extension. So I just went with what I could do. This weekend should tell us

It never occurred to me it wasn't very atttactive.

 

[Deb&RickTX]

It never occurred to me it wasn't very atttactive.

LOL! I just look at them like the strakes on the underside of an Indy Car. They contribute to aerodynamic downforce. ;-)