Recent content by coy55boyrv

Thanks for that suggestion, John. Just wish you had posted earlier. Now I have to get on the roof again. That stuf makes sense!

I wrapped it with more of the self-fusing silicone tape. I should have taken a final shot, but my phone was out of film... ;)

Thanks again for all your help. I was able to complete repairs at minimal cost. The only thing I had to buy was a boot to cover the nipple protruding through the roof. The original looked like what you'd find on a distributor cap to attach the coil cable. Couldn't find one. So, I bought rubber...

This is the plan I'm working on. If it doesn't work, I'll probably have to pull a new cable through the roof. Is that difficult? Or should I hire the job out?

Thanks for all the replies. Unfortunately, there was no 'F' connector at the base. It only 'looked like' 2 different cables because a previous owner/mechanic had stripped off the outer layer of insulation. It now looks like one continuous run of cable from the top of the antenna to the forward...

I've noticed reception on my TV deteriorating recently and suddenly it was nonexistent. I thought it might the the TV tuner, but when a connected a set of old rabbit ears - voila! So, I began testing the cable. Everything checked out OK from the TV through a splitter to the distribution box to...

Hi everyone! One of my front clearance lights was cracked and needed replacement. The rest of them were all faded, so I decided to replace them all. Unfortunately, 2 of them had bracket adhesive failure and the bracket came out with the fixture. It looks like some kind of tube delivered glue of...

Thanks Gary (and everyone else) I found this article independently and had already bookmarked it. I'm currently using method 3 but would like to upgrade to method 1. The downside I found was explained in the article..."The most elegant (and of course, most expensive) solution". Those darn things...

My RV currently has a modified wave 1100 watt inverter tied to a couple of outlets that were added when the inverter was initially installed. One is under the dining table and the other is under the lounge table. I want to upgrade to a pure sine wave 3000 watt inverter so that I can have 120V...

Well, I fixed it although I'm not really sure how. I verified the valves were all in the correct position. Next, I checked the output side of the water pump and it was OK. The only other thing I did was to add 20lbs. pressure to the accumulator. I went inside and opened all the water valves and...

A 'winterizing' valve makes sense. However, with the pump running I can change the valve to either position and get no vacuum at the tube nor do I get pressure in the line. When you say 'open the cold', I'm not sure what you mean. (Sorry, new to RVing and still learning). Can you be more...

After going through the required plumbing repairs (replace kitchen sink and tub faucets, etc.) using city water pressure, I'm finally ready to test the water pump. I filled the tank, made sure the valves were open to eliminate air pockets, and turned on the pump. It made noise and vibrated...

According to what I found on the wiring schematic, the TLM is connected to the 12V breaker panel. So far, I've discovered 3 separate fuse boxes not counting the breaker panel. There may be others yet to be found. It's all part of the fun!  ::)

Well, I had my doubts...but, the new board solved the problem. Thanks for your help, guys!

Thanks, John. I'd already looked at this diagram. I traced out the 12V line (marked JA) and found a termination marked the same at the 12V breaker panel. I pulled the level monitor panel this morning. Once I get everything put back together, I'll let you know what happened...