Recent content by Viper02

After looking at several RV parts stores ( that stock everyting ) they all say the same thing. the motor 232726 is NLA and NO substitute motor PN available... specs on dimensions of motor within this...

The thermistor in an RV fridge operates on resistance feedback to the fridge control module.. the temp of the Fins on the adjustable ones has NOTHING to do with the operation... On the Dometic RM1350 the thermistor is mounted on the ceiling of the fridge and is NON adjustable... Some RV fridge...

I have been using the TST 507 system since 2014.. The older monochrome display and the original sensors took about 5 to 10 minutes the FIRST time they were turned on for the season.. after that usually less than 5 minutes.. I upgraded the to the TST 507 color display and a set of new sensors for...

If you have the basic electrical skills this issue should be easy to TS.. TS the 12 volts DC to the control board ... IF the lower control board has 12 volts DC incoming and the 12 volt ATC fuse is good then either you have loose connections at the control board or the board has failed.. the...

The OP has an issue with the incoming 50 amp (120 FEED) .. that is the ONLY THING that would cause 3 converters in a row.. WFCO should last for decades as well as the Progressiive Dynamics unit.. With popped CAPS on that is the KEY INDICATOR of incoming overvoltage .. period

There are two fuses.. one is glass and is for the 120 side.. If the fridge is not cooling on electric mode then remove the heating element wires where they connect at the control board and measure the resistance of the two heating coils. should measure around 10 to 13 ohms each. If they read...

I leave my fifth wheel plugged in all the time when stored at the house.. running converter off 15 amp outside house outlet.. Have for the last nine years with the current RV we own.. The two GC2 six volt batteries are always fully maintained.. I do not remove the batteries for the long cold...

If the batteries are fully discharged often most converters will switch into boost or bulk mode charge rate which is around 14.2 to 14.6 volts.. The ONLY WAY to verify the converter is operating properly is remove the battery cables and with shore power applied measure the converter output at...

If you measure 12.76 volts DC WITH CONVERTER RUNNING then you have a problem.. The converter will always indicate around 13.4 to 13.8 volts running..

Yup it would have worked just fine... My Suburban is the SW 12DE and I could easily add the remote relay and and inside switch to operate in electric mode instead of having to use he switch mounted on the front of the WH.. personally the remote relay is another source of failure ( and the relay...

You should be able to locate the leak if it is coming from the front cap to roof seal joint... Clean the existing sealant and look for voids, etc and reseal... DO NOT USE DAP ANYTHING on the roof membrane.,. Use the Dicor or Alpha systems self leveling on the flat surface and non sag sealant on...

If you are not already using tire covers on your RV then you should.. The tires block the UV.. this is the MAJOR contributor to the tire breaking down and starting to split on the sidewall, etc.. If you are parked for more than a few days then get the covers and install them to enjoy longer tire...

Been here since 1991.. retired here after career finished with USAF and then worked 20 years for Micron in Boise.. Town is slowly growing.. nice area still to raise kids and such..

When you buy an RV you had better be able to do repair work yourself.. The so called manufacture warranty is a novel concept... My current 2014 fifth wheel has been at the selling dealership once in nine seasons of use... and the was 1 month after we bought it.. Everything else is maintained by...

Take the exterior covers off both of these LG units and you will have plenty of clearance.. WE own an LH washer and dryer and these are easy to remove the exterior covers off of