1 battery vs 3

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chaostactics

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I'm currently running pros and cons of running 1 300 ah battery vs 3 100 ah batteries.

my initial argument was in having 3 batteries if one battery fails i'll still have 200ah of batteries. However, some people have recommended only running one 300 ah battery. it would be more economical both for battery cost and cost of wiring. it would also make the over all system weigh less between the battery weight and cable weight.

what else should I consider in this decision?

Im looking at the 300 ah Ampere Time battery, which will be mounted inside the TT RV cabin
 
Im looking at the 300 ah Ampere Time battery, which will be mounted inside the TT RV cabin
I have that battery in both my RVs. They cost a couple of hundred bucks less these days than when I purchased mine.

I am happy with mine.

They are quite heavy because they use the same case as their 200AH with different and heavier cells. That also means they are smaller than most other 300 AH lith batteries.

According to the manual for the battery, you can keep these FULLY charged at all times. In fact, they recommend them to be stored at a full charged unlike all the other lith batteries I know of. It's easier to keep them fully charged than to have to store them at 60% SOC like many others. At least until they make an RV converter where we can set for where the SOC is to stop charging.

You can view the battery here in my 2022 RV.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
I'm currently running pros and cons of running 1 300 ah battery vs 3 100 ah batteries.

my initial argument was in having 3 batteries if one battery fails i'll still have 200ah of batteries. However, some people have recommended only running one 300 ah battery. it would be more economical both for battery cost and cost of wiring. it would also make the over all system weigh less between the battery weight and cable weight.

what else should I consider in this decision?

Im looking at the 300 ah Ampere Time battery, which will be mounted inside the TT RV cabin
my main argument would be the BMS current rating and your anticipated maximum current draw.
if you have a 3000W inverter for example and 12V then the load could be around 270 Amps, if that single battery has a 200 Amp BMS then your basically SOL..!
 
my main argument would be the BMS current rating and your anticipated maximum current draw.
if you have a 3000W inverter for example and 12V then the load could be around 270 Amps, if that single battery has a 200 Amp BMS then your basically SOL..!
Screenshot_20221003-094659_Chrome.jpg
I'm running the new Victron 12/2000 80a unit
 
View attachment 158253
I'm running the new Victron 12/2000 80a unit
Ok.. that unit has a max continuous draw of 1600 Watts and 90% or better efficiency.
you could expect a current draw at 12Volts of approx ( 1600 / 12 ) * 90% = 148 Amps.
the Amperetime 300 A battery has a 200 Amp BMS. you would be loading it at approx 75% of it's capacity. in this case a single battery would suffice. i did not include any other loads with that calculation as I have no other data.. but I doubt you have any other high DC loads that would push your total over 200 Amps..
 
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I prefer links that tell you directly where you'll be taken, although hovering over your 'A' will also tell you that.
Yes, just look at the bottom left of the screen when you do (at least in my Windows 11 running MS Edge).

There are also many other ways to deal with that for those who are paranoid about being linked to a virous or whatever. Such as right click and use "copy link" from that "A" and open a new tap to see where it will go before going there.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
Yes, just look at the bottom left of the screen when you do (at least in my Windows 11 running MS Edge).

There are also many other ways to deal with that for those who are paranoid about being linked to a virous or whatever. Such as right click and use "copy link" from that "A" and open a new tap to see where it will go before going there.

-Don- Auburn, CA
Or just look at the posted link and know with no other actions needed...
 
According to the manual for the battery, you can keep these FULLY charged at all times. In fact, they recommend them to be stored at a full charged unlike all the other lith batteries I know of. It's easier to keep them fully charged than to have to store them at 60% SOC like many others. At least until they make an RV converter where we can set for where the SOC is to stop charging.
We easily handle keeping our LiFePO4 batteries at about 70% for storage. All that needs done is to set the voltage on the chargers (both the inverter and the solar) to 13.2v. Ours just say to store below 80%, and this gives us a 72-74% SOC. If you wanted a bit SOC, just set the charge voltage a bit lower. We just up the charge voltage up to 14.4v for 100% as needed for dry camping or boondocking.
 

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