paleface
Active member
I want to get away from the typical propane/ AC refrig. I noticed the whynter frig is both 12 volt or AC. Does anyone know of that same option but in an upright model? Thanks Doug
12 volt/ AC upright refrigerator
- Thread starter paleface
- Start date
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workinonit
Well-known member
Mine is an AC fridge that runs off the inverter. Low current draw.
paleface
Active member
Workinonit, what size inverter and what kind do you use and do you also have solar charge? Doug
Kirk
Well-known member
paleface
Active member
paleface
Active member
That is encouraging. Still the whynter is 12 volt or AC yet it is in a cooler style and I wondered why the same could not be made in an upright. Doug
Lou Schneider
Site Team
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2005
- Posts
- 13,584
12 volt or AC simply means it has a 12 volt DC plug in power supply - either internal or external.
mweber (KC9NPT)
Well-known member
I have a 10 cu. ft Haier with a Voltwork 1500 amp inverter, way oversized. I can go 12-14 hours on battery.
paleface
Active member
paleface
Active member
Lou, have you looked at the Whynter 65 qt cooler-refrig. ? I am looked for that same option but in the fashion of an upright model. Doug
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The Whynter isn't a compressor-driven unit - it's a so-called electronic chiller. I'm not familiar with the Whynter itself, but that type typically has a limited cooling capacity and can only chill something like 30 F below the ambient temperature. Not sufficient 24 hr us on for 80+ degree days. And the physical size of the chiller unit increases in proportion to the size (cubic ft) of box - that's why you seldom see them in larger sizes. The big advantage of that type is better portability than a 12v compressor unit. A compressor-type unit is superior in almost every other aspect and the difference grows more pronounced as the size of the fridge increases..
A 12v only fridge works fine in an RV because the RV has its own AC/DC converter built in. As soon as you plug the RV to shore power, the converter comes on and effectively switches the fridge to 120vac source rather than battery.
An alternative is to use a 120vac only fridge and couple it to an inverter that has an internal auto-transfer switch. That effectively makes the fridge an AC/DC appliance but at a slight loss in power efficiency (inverters are typically 80%-85% efficient in 12vdc-->120vac power conversion). The required wattage for the inverter varies with the fridge size but 1000W-1500W is sufficient. Typical daily consumption of 10-15 cu ft 120vac fridge is around 1.5 KWH.
Kirk
Well-known member
There are several other companies that make that technology coolers, but none that I know of who make any actual refrigerators, for the reasons that Gary listed above. That type of cooling is a fairly good substitute for an ice chest, but little more.
jlhog
Well-known member
Our fridge is 120 v only. When on the road I run a 3 ft extension cord to the invertor. Sems to work fine that way.
paleface
Active member
That is informative and what I need to know. I think you are mistaken about the cooling capacity of the whynter. If you look and review youtube testimonials it gets down near 0 degrees if wanted. Doug
John From Detroit
Well-known member
From Google's AI:
I have had a few of those. In fact I still have one. As others have said most cool only room temp -30, So at 70 they cool to 40.. at 90 to 60.. Plus they suck a lot of current (like 6 amps or more)
I also have a small chest freezer/refrigerator. Compressor driven what I call the "Danfoss" class (it's one of the brands of compressors used in these units) It replaced another Chest Freezer of the same class (Different brand) Currently sitting at -4º F (room is 75) A real Refrigerator/freezer/Deep freeze (Below 0F is deep freeze)
Both Norcold and Dometic at one time made RV-sized units using this same technology. These are designed as a "Drop in" replacement for their upright RV absorption units. Other than EXPENSIVE (But worth it I think) I can't tell you much about them. I do not know if they still make them or if they have gone to more traditional compressor types.
I have had a few of those. In fact I still have one. As others have said most cool only room temp -30, So at 70 they cool to 40.. at 90 to 60.. Plus they suck a lot of current (like 6 amps or more)
I also have a small chest freezer/refrigerator. Compressor driven what I call the "Danfoss" class (it's one of the brands of compressors used in these units) It replaced another Chest Freezer of the same class (Different brand) Currently sitting at -4º F (room is 75) A real Refrigerator/freezer/Deep freeze (Below 0F is deep freeze)
Both Norcold and Dometic at one time made RV-sized units using this same technology. These are designed as a "Drop in" replacement for their upright RV absorption units. Other than EXPENSIVE (But worth it I think) I can't tell you much about them. I do not know if they still make them or if they have gone to more traditional compressor types.
paleface
Active member
paleface
Active member
I will then opt for one of the DC only and will try to find out which one has the best reputation with good service. Do they all draw the same power usage? Doug
Kirk
Well-known member
Each one will have a power requirement listed with the specs. It may be in either amps or watts.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Could be - I said I was not familiar with the brand and it is certainly possible to build one that would do that. But there is a practical, cost-effective limit with that technology, which is why you don't see it used in larger, fixed location fridges. As with any technology, each one has its own advantages & disadvantages and what works well for one application may be a lesser choice for another.
