12 volt Power

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joejh52

Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2015
Posts
12
Location
Englewood Florida
I have a 2005 Voyage. Recently I lost all the 12v power. I found out the battery solenoid was bad. I changed both the battery solenoid and the battery disconnect solenoid.
I now have 12 v power
The problem now is the battery disconnect switch is not working. Can a bad battery be causing this issue.
The house batteries read 12.4 volts and when the generator is on they read around 13.8
So they are charging.
Any ideas?
 

mel s

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2014
Posts
836
joejh52 said:
I have a 2005 Voyage. Recently I lost all the 12v power. I found out the battery solenoid was bad. I changed both the battery solenoid and the battery disconnect solenoid.
I now have 12 v power
The problem now is the battery disconnect switch is not working. Can a bad battery be causing this issue.
The house batteries read 12.4 volts and when the generator is on they read around 13.8
So they are charging.
Any ideas?

joejh52
Can you please explain what you mean by "not working"?
 

joejh52

Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2015
Posts
12
Location
Englewood Florida
mel s said:
joejh52
Can you please explain what you mean by "not working"?

When I push the battery disconnect switch, the solenoid does not click.
The 12v power stays on all the time now.
I went from no 12v power to power all the time

edit by staff - removed a bunch of white space
 

John Canfield

Site Team
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Aug 8, 2006
Posts
13,487
Location
Texas Hill Country
Did you buy an exact or at least compatible replacement solenoid? Did you take a picture of the wiring before you removed the old solenoid? Have you looked at the Winnebago wiring diagram for that part of the 12V wiring and verified your wiring?
 

joejh52

Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2015
Posts
12
Location
Englewood Florida
I am sure the wiring is correct.
We got back from a trip everything was working fine. About 2 weeks later I went over to clean some things up. When I pushed the battery disconnect switch, the solenoid did not make any noise like the clicking that usually happens.

I had no 12v power in the coach, no power to the gennie. The engine started right up and ran fine.

I used a meter and figured put that the battery solenoid was bad. I figured I would change both solenoids at the same time.

As soon as I hooked the batteries back up I heard the vent fan come on...yeah 12v power back on. Walked over pushed the gennie switch and it started right up. I checked all the 12v lights everything is working great....life is good.

But and there seems to always be one..I shut everything down and when I pushed the battery disconnect...nothing. I still had 12v power on in the coach but the switch did not disconnect the battery.

I cleaned all the battery cables still not working. Took the batteries out and had them tested but the charge was too low the get them checked. I took them home charged them up but still the switch doesnt engage.

So good news is that I have 12v power...bad news cant disconnect the batteries
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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Joined
Feb 2, 2005
Posts
73,489
Location
At our Silver Springs FL home
I don't know what to suggest.  Either you have some small glitch in your replacement wiring or the new solenoid is bad too.  There is no magic answer - just patient diagnosis of the circuit and its components. Basically the same process you used when the original stopped working.
 

youracman

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Nov 17, 2015
Posts
275
Location
Denver, CO
Hi Joe-

I recently replaced both the solenoids in my rig too.  They were working just fine, but I did a "preemptive strike" because they were 11 yrs old and must have had a gazillion cycles on their copper contacts.  There are better ones out there that use silver alloy contacts, but I elected to go with WGO parts (from Lichtsinn) ?? 11 years service will work for me.

The first sentence in John's post above is important in that the coach batt disconnect solenoid is a "latching" type solenoid.  From the electrical dwg on your coach, it appears that this latching solenoid and its wiring is the same as on my Class C?..pictured below.

I took the old solenoid that I saved for a spare (force of habit, I guess) and tested it on the fender of my car today.  It "works as advertised"; namely, when I applied 12v across the small small/armature terminals (momentary application, then release the B+ [positive] lead) the solenoid closed??and stayed closed without drawing any current.  In order to get the solenoid to "open" I momentarily applied 12v to the (small) armature connections again, but in reverse polarity ?.. and the solenoid "unlatched";  I then had an open ckt across the large power terminals. SOooo, it needs powered closed and also powered open ...... as I see it, anyway.

I tried to get a wiring diagram/schematic (for the salesman's switch itself) from WGO tech support today, but all they seem to have are the "wiring and plug" type diagrams that are available online.  I  believe the "salesman's switch" that controls the solenoid is wired as shown below?.. makes sense.  My coach is in Yellowstone now or I would pull the switch back and verify that.  The switch sits in "neutral" and is spring-loaded to momentarily connect the solenoid as shown when moved to either the "On" or Off" position.

Assuming you have the correct configuration latching solenoid, you could have a DOA switch (even though new) as Gary stated; or maybe the salesman's switch itself (or associated switch wiring to the solenoid) is bad.

Pls check back with the forum re the outcome.......... we're all learnin'.

In any event???.good luck with the fix,  and safe travels. 




 

Attachments

  • AAB- Isol Sol AKA  Salesman's  Switch.jpg
    AAB- Isol Sol AKA Salesman's Switch.jpg
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  • Coach Batt Isol Solenoid.tif
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youracman

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Nov 17, 2015
Posts
275
Location
Denver, CO
OOps......looks like a problem with the tif file (typ salesman sw schematic)  Let me try again

 

Attachments

  • Coach Batt Isol Solenoid.tif
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