120Volt outlets all of a sudden go dead.

Microwave is working.
(Edit: disregard this post! Now I see your RV is a 30 amp.)


Then one leg working and the other is not. I would find the TWO AC circuit breakers that are together and click both of them off and on again. Sounds like one of the two is tripped and may not look tripped.

The other possibilities still remain, but start with the simple.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
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My 40 year old analog clamp-on VOAM died last week. Can't figure it out, fuse is good battery is good. Much prefer analog if I am working 120 or 240. Have three digitals but guess I am going to have to get a new analog if you can even find them anymore.
There is a very large selection of analog VOMs on Amazon. You can also buy BOTH in the same unit. I like the scales on this one (analog only) because both 120 VAC as well as 12-13 VDC is halfway up the scale when on the 250 VAC or 25 VDC scale.

22 bucks.


1754360319963.png



-Don- Reno, NV
 
No mention of ohms per volt, that used to be a front and center spec for analog multimeters. And no mirrored scale? I know, polishing a turd for anything you'd test in an RV and I'm actually surprised these meters even exist. Can't be many companies making d'arsonval movements anymore. I remember back in my service daze everyone was issued a Simpson 260 primarily because they could be used to test line level audio but I thought they sucked. If you forgot to turn them off the batteries went flat, I hated reading little tick marks on a critical measurement and the cases busted if you dropped them. Give me a DMM with a backlight all day long.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
No mention of ohms per volt, that used to be a front and center spec for analog multimeters. And no mirrored scale? I know, polishing a turd for anything you'd test in an RV and I'm actually surprised these meters even exist. Can't be many companies making d'arsonval movements anymore. I remember back in my service daze everyone was issued a Simpson 260 primarily because they could be used to test line level audio but I thought they sucked. If you forgot to turn them off the batteries went flat, I hated reading little tick marks on a critical measurement and the cases busted if you dropped them. Give me a DMM with a backlight all day long.
I have several different VOMs for different purposes, both digital and analog. I find it to be very rare to be concerned with ohms per volt or to need 100% accuracy. In fact, most of the time I want a heavier load when I measure voltage. It all depends on the job. And too often the DMM needs to settle down and when it does, be sure to check if you're reading volts or millivolts.

I also could not stand the Simpson 260. Need the 50-volt scare to measure 12 volts? What type of BS is that? I did like the Triplett one back then which had the divide by-two switch which worked on every scale.

Give me a DMM with a backlight all day long.
Have fun trying to peak (or dip) a coil of a transmitter (or whatever) with the DMM.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
Have fun trying to peak (or dip) a coil of a transmitter (or whatever) with the DMM.
Anything old enough to need analog tuning is too old to bother with. I haven't seen tweakers in a radio since the 1990s. But I've done it, it's not that hard. Mostly depends on the refresh rate of the meter. Some like Flukes have a pretty responsive bar graph on the bottom of the display.

1754370151467.png


Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Anything old enough to need analog tuning is too old to bother with. I haven't seen tweakers in a radio since the 1990s. But I've done it, it's not that hard. Mostly depends on the refresh rate of the meter. Some like Flukes have a pretty responsive bar graph on the bottom of the display.

View attachment 1332665

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Yeah, I have used such Flukes at work. True RMS, a "digital analog" (or should I call it an analog-digital scale? :) )and all that. Better than most by far. But for 99.9% of what I use a VOM for, just give me a cheap ten-buck analog VOM.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
Yeah, I have used such Flukes at work. True RMS, a "digital analog" (or should I call it an analog-digital scale? :) )and all that. Better than most by far. But for 99.9% of what I use a VOM for, just give me a cheap ten-buck analog VOM.

-Don- Reno, NV

I agree. I worked in electronics for almost 60 years. There are places for both type of meters.
We used to carry a Simpson 260 in the service trucks along with a Fluke DMM.
The Simpson great for quick, approximate measurements. If it was close, it was good.
One problem with a person not familiar with using meters, is if they are looking for 12 volts and the digital meter shows 11.5 or 13 volts, they think there's a problem.
Same with 120 volts.
 
On ground fault outlets, they can be wired incorrectly. There are lugs for incoming voltage and lugs for output voltage to other outlets. Make sure you have it wired correctly. Be careful around 120VAC, if you are not able to safely do this just call an electrician to take care of it, or a mobile RV repair person.
 
(Edit: disregard this post! Now I see your RV is a 30 amp.)


Then one leg working and the other is not. I would find the TWO AC circuit breakers that are together and click both of them off and on again. Sounds like one of the two is tripped and may not look tripped.

The other possibilities still remain, but start with the simple.

-Don- Reno, NV
All circuit breakers are good, I reset them all.
 
Microwave is working.
That tells us that you do have 120V into the RV, so you can safely assume that the outlet you are connected to is good, your shore power cord is good, and the main circuit breaker as well as the one supplying the microwave are also good.
All circuit breakers are good, I reset them all.
I will assume that you realize that the only way to be sure that your circuit breakers are closed is to open each one and then close it again? If not, do that now.
I'm using a Southwire GFCI receptacle tester
Is there any chance that your device could be bad? If it is the one I see online, it should have a built-in voltmeter. Is there another outlet somewhere that you could plug into just to verify that it is working? If you are connected to a typical RV power pedestal it should have a double, 15a outlet on it that you could use to test and be certain. It probably has a circuit breaker above it.
I'm not an electrician.
While I am a retired electrical technician, you really don't need to have much knowledge of electricity to use a meter for basic information. A cheap one will give you more information and they come with instructions on how to take measurements. Don't let us intimidate you for a lack of experience. All of us had to learn as well and many began with no more knowledge than you have. Are you sure that you do not have another GFCI somewhere that you aren't aware of? Also, if you could post pictures of your electrical distribution panel, and possible the GFCI it might just trigger some thought from one of us who have a lot of experience.
 
On ground fault outlets, they can be wired incorrectly. There are lugs for incoming voltage and lugs for output voltage to other outlets. Make sure you have it wired correctly. Be careful around 120VAC, if you are not able to safely do this just call an electrician to take care of it, or a mobile RV repair person.

They are marked line and load. The incoming wires from the breaker go to line terminals and downstream wires connect to the load terminals.
Easy to get them confused.
 
There is a very large selection of analog VOMs on Amazon. You can also buy BOTH in the same unit. I like the scales on this one (analog only) because both 120 VAC as well as 12-13 VDC is halfway up the scale when on the 250 VAC or 25 VDC scale.

22 bucks.


View attachment 1332659


-Don- Reno, NV
Yes, but that is not a clamp on ammeter. You can't check amperage draw with this.
 
Look, let's not make this overly complicated. A green light on a GFCI outlet indicates it is receiving power. If the GFCI wiring is reversed or either hot or neutral is open then the green light will NOT be on, so that potential issue can be eliminated. That means the GFCI has detected a ground fault and opened the circuit. It won't successfully reset as long as the fault exists. Technically, it tries to reset but instantly faults again, but that's an indistinguishable difference in most cases. Verify this by disconnecting the wire from the LOAD side of the GFCI outlet. That's the one that feeds power to the other outlets and is normally a black wire (indicating 120v hot). The GFCI should reset with that wire off. Note that reversing Hot & Neutral on the Load side of the GFCI might cause the GFCI to trip (depending on what is downstream from it).
 
Resetting a breaker doesn't mean it's good, or there's power. Wonder and guess, or measure and know. A meter would prove it in three seconds. Measuring where power is and isn't, and maybe continuity in a few spots would isolate the fault quickly. It gets wordy because we're missing key data and it goes round and round of what it could be.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
That tells us that you do have 120V into the RV, so you can safely assume that the outlet you are connected to is good, your shore power cord is good, and the main circuit breaker as well as the one supplying the microwave are also good.

I will assume that you realize that the only way to be sure that your circuit breakers are closed is to open each one and then close it again? If not, do that now.

Is there any chance that your device could be bad? If it is the one I see online, it should have a built-in voltmeter. Is there another outlet somewhere that you could plug into just to verify that it is working? If you are connected to a typical RV power pedestal it should have a double, 15a outlet on it that you could use to test and be certain. It probably has a circuit breaker above it.

While I am a retired electrical technician, you really don't need to have much knowledge of electricity to use a meter for basic information. A cheap one will give you more information and they come with instructions on how to take measurements. Don't let us intimidate you for a lack of experience. All of us had to learn as well and many began with no more knowledge than you have. Are you sure that you do not have another GFCI somewhere that you aren't aware of? Also, if you could post pictures of your electrical distribution panel, and possible the GFCI it might just trigger some thought from one of us who have a lot of experience.
 
I own several of those too. But I think we should all get back to the OP problem until it is repaired.

-Don- Reno, NV
Plus, a clamp on only works if you access the hot conductor by itself. Not easy to do with romex unless you strip it back.
 
I hate to sound like a broken record here but I have seen this countless times

1. Leviton GFCIs have the line and load reversed from other brands and reversed from some of their own earlier models, this results in most rookies wiring them backwards as they are unaware of the LINE & LOAD markings on the back and they don't understand what the yellow tape is for so they just copy the wire locations from the old to the new.
2. When properly wired, the light should flash red momentarily (self test) then go to green, and it will deliver power.
3. When wired backwards, the light will go straight to green and stay green, and no power will be delivered.
 
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