120Volt outlets all of a sudden go dead.

Thanks Kirk, Please see photos. There is only one GFCI in the RV and it's the one shown here and is in the bathroom. The other outlets are non-GFCI. Microwave does work. Wiring the new GFCI is correct. The test, reset buttons do not operate but have a green light. This is the second GFCI I installed thinking the first one was bad out of the box. I flipped all circuit breakers off and then on. It's all very bizarre to me as my RV has been stationary for 3 weeks now. One minute the outlets work, the next they don't.
 

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gwinger said:
Plus, a clamp on only works if you access the hot conductor by itself. Not easy to do with romex unless you strip it back.
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Or can use one of these thingies:

EXTECH 480172 Offers​

Features
  • Measure AC current up to 15 A on two-wire or three-wire power cords using a clamp meter
  • When connected between a 120 VAC outlet and a device under test, this splitter separates the hot/live conductor from the neutral and ground
  • Features two voltage test jacks so that voltage up to 120 VAC can be measured using a multimeter



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invstbiker said:
On the back of the GFCi, it’s labeled Line and Load. Black wires to load, white to Line. This is the original GFCI.
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No, one black and one white to line and one black and one white to load. The pair on the line side is the one with power from the breaker, the pair on the load side continues on to the other outlets. At this point I'd say there is a good chance you got it wrong.
 
bigb56 said:
No, one black and one white to line and one black and one white to load. The pair on the line side is the one with power from the breaker, the pair on the load side continues on to the other outlets. At this point I'd say there is a good chance you got it wrong.
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Well that is possible, here are two more photos. The black colored GFCI is the original and the white colored is GFCI #1 that I bought.
 

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invstbiker said:
This diagram correct?
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No that is incorrect. Line and load is top and bottom, not side to side. And as I suspected, your new GFCI is opposite of your old one. The pair of wires that came off the top of your old one go to the bottom of the new one and vice versa.

1. One cable comes into the box with power and goes to the screws on the bottom of the new Leviton where it says "LINE", white to the silver screw and black to the brass screw.
2. The second cable leaves the box and goes to the next outlet, it's 2 wires go to the top of the new Leviton that says "LOAD", again white to silver and black to brass.
 
To make this simple, take one of the cables and attach the black and white wires to the line terminals (bottom) as described, cap off or tape up the wires from the other cable. Then switch on the breaker. If the GFCI resets and has power, turn things off again and connect the other 2 wires from the 2nd cable to the load terminals. Switch the breaker back on and if the GFCI resets you're done. If it trips you've got a ground fault down the line.
If the GFCI does not power up after the first step above, use the other 2 wires instead for the first step and repeat the rest of the steps. Be sure that black goes to brass and white to silver and that each pair of wires comes from the same cable jacket.
 
bigb56 said:
To make this simple, take one of the cables and attach the black and white wires to the line terminals (bottom) as described, cap off or tape up the wires from the other cable. Then switch on the breaker. If the GFCI resets and has power, turn things off again and connect the other 2 wires from the 2nd cable to the load terminals. Switch the breaker back on and if the GFCI resets you're done. If it trips you've got a ground fault down the line.
If the GFCI does not power up after the first step above, use the other 2 wires instead for the first step and repeat the rest of the steps. Be sure that black goes to brass and white to silver and that each pair of wires comes from the same cable jacket.
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Yes. From the breaker, black on the brass screw, white on the silver screw. Across from each other on "line".
You have to verify what wire is coming from the breaker. Use a voltmeter.
Don't worry about the top and bottom. You can rotate the receptacle to get the buttons where you want them.
 
invstbiker said:
Please see photos.
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As Big56 has said, you have the GFCI wired wrong. It is very common in the RV world to have only one GFCI with all of the other outlets connected through the one. A fault in any other outlet will then trip the GFCI and all outlets will be off.

Let us know once you get the outlet wired. As you do so, follow these directions from Big56. "To make this simple, take one of the cables and attach the black and white wires to the line terminals (bottom) as described, cap off or tape up the wires from the other cable. Then switch on the breaker. If the GFCI resets and has power, turn things off again and connect the other 2 wires from the 2nd cable to the load terminals. Switch the breaker back on and if the GFCI resets you're done. If it trips you've got a ground fault down the line."

What you have is the black wire is the hot or powered lead and the white wire is neutral, or the return side. The name line is another word for the supply side from the circuit breaker. The term load means anything that is supplied farther down the line. RV's typically connect the outlets into a daisy chain system, with only one circuit for all outlets if the RV has 30A cord and into two separate circuits if the RV is one with a 50A power cord.
 
bigb56 said:
To make this simple, take one of the cables and attach the black and white wires to the line terminals (bottom) as described, cap off or tape up the wires from the other cable. Then switch on the breaker. If the GFCI resets and has power, turn things off again and connect the other 2 wires from the 2nd cable to the load terminals. Switch the breaker back on and if the GFCI resets you're done. If it trips you've got a ground fault down the line.
If the GFCI does not power up after the first step above, use the other 2 wires instead for the first step and repeat the rest of the steps. Be sure that black goes to brass and white to silver and that each pair of wires comes from the same cable jacket.
Click to expand...
OK, I followed the schematic and your instructions. I found the 120VAC coming in from the shore power. Green light is on. Neither of the "new" GFCI's will reset and my GFCI receptacle tester shows nothing as in dead. Could it be that I have 2 bad new GFCI's?
 
bigb56 said:
To make this simple, take one of the cables and attach the black and white wires to the line terminals (bottom) as described, cap off or tape up the wires from the other cable. Then switch on the breaker. If the GFCI resets and has power, turn things off again and connect the other 2 wires from the 2nd cable to the load terminals. Switch the breaker back on and if the GFCI resets you're done. If it trips you've got a ground fault down the line.
If the GFCI does not power up after the first step above, use the other 2 wires instead for the first step and repeat the rest of the steps. Be sure that black goes to brass and white to silver and that each pair of wires comes from the same cable jacket.
Click to expand...
OK, I followed the schematic and your instructions. I found the 120VAC coming in from the shore power. Green light is on. Neither of the "new" GFCI's will reset and my GFCI receptacle tester shows nothing as in dead. Could it be that I have 2 bad new GFCI's?
 
Yes, but the GFCI does not reset. Thanks for the instruction sheet. I'm out of options at this point and will call an electrician.
 
invstbiker said:
Yes, but the GFCI does not reset. Thanks for the instruction sheet. I'm out of options at this point and will call an electrician.
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If the green light is on, the receptacle is active. Have you tried pressing the 'test' button? It should disable the receptacle.
 
Yes, pressing the test or reset button, the GFCI does nothing. Tried this on both the new GFCI's I purchased.
 
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