I am the original owner, starting 4 years ago I started having brake problems. The MH is equipped with anti-lock brakes but the brakes continue to seize up while driving. When using the brakes in town they continue to get tighter and tighter as you apply them. The parking brake light comes on (book says this is a hydralic problem). I have had the front brakes completely redone twice (pads,rotors,calipers,and hoses). Seems to correct the problem for approx. 1000 miles then it starts to return. If I stop and sit for a while the brake light goes off and they are fine. If i drive on the interstate all day no problems occur. Only in traffic. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
1997 P30 brakes locking up
- Thread starter badback2
- Start date
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Hi BadBack2,
My rig is a 1990 Winnebago Elandan on a Ford (F5, I think) chassis. I too have had a similar problem--but just for the first run of the day, and never to lock up, but a few times to definite smoke.
I too have replaced rotors, calipers, pads, front flex hoses. From what I've read and what other RVers have said to me, the problem is with the master cylinder. I'm currently having the master cylinder replaced on my rig and I'm sure hoping that fixes this two and a half year problem.
So, you might want to consider having your master cylinder checked out--don't quite know what checking out means, but some of the very techie folks on this forum will surely jump in (I'm the last person you would ever describe as being a techie
).
Ciao,
Doug
My rig is a 1990 Winnebago Elandan on a Ford (F5, I think) chassis. I too have had a similar problem--but just for the first run of the day, and never to lock up, but a few times to definite smoke.
I too have replaced rotors, calipers, pads, front flex hoses. From what I've read and what other RVers have said to me, the problem is with the master cylinder. I'm currently having the master cylinder replaced on my rig and I'm sure hoping that fixes this two and a half year problem.
So, you might want to consider having your master cylinder checked out--don't quite know what checking out means, but some of the very techie folks on this forum will surely jump in (I'm the last person you would ever describe as being a techie
).Ciao,
Doug
Rex
Well-known member
Ok, are you sure which brake is causing the problem, those on your wheels, or the Auto Park system? You said the parking brake light comes on when driving. The Chevy chassis has an Auto Park system that sets brake shoes around the drive shaft at the rear of your transmission. If the system fails, or is starting to fail, it will apply that brake. The Auto Park when properly adjusted and operational, will keep the coach from moving even on hills. There is no pall in the transmission to lock it when in park like on your car. The Auto Park is the ONLY thing that keeps the coach from moving when the transmission is placed in park.
There are two pressure switches that fail in the system. They each cost around $45 and are available from most large Chevy dealers. They are located inside a metal box under the coach, a little toward front from the steps, and almost in the center of the frame. There is a fluid reservoir on the rear of the box. If it is low, the light will come. Fill it with Dextron III transmission fluid. The box cover closest to the center of the coach can be removed to access the pressure switches. You can replace them yourself if your are handy with tools. It is not a hard job, just a dirty one.
Rex
There are two pressure switches that fail in the system. They each cost around $45 and are available from most large Chevy dealers. They are located inside a metal box under the coach, a little toward front from the steps, and almost in the center of the frame. There is a fluid reservoir on the rear of the box. If it is low, the light will come. Fill it with Dextron III transmission fluid. The box cover closest to the center of the coach can be removed to access the pressure switches. You can replace them yourself if your are handy with tools. It is not a hard job, just a dirty one.
Rex
TNROY
Well-known member
You are correct that there is a seperate "auto park" light on your dash. It sounds like you have a serious problem with your front brakes. I'm surprised that your local dealer can't find the correct solution. Could it be that the coach manufacturer has not allowed enough air flow at low speeds around the brakes, and that is causing your failures?
Karl
Moderator Emeritus
There is no good way to check a master cylinder which almost surely is your problem - corrosion caused by moisture in the fluid. Replace the master cylinder and have them do a complete flush and refill of the system. With moisture, the brake fluid boils at a very low temperature and continues to exert force on the piston even when the brake pedal is released. Allowing it to sit for a while lets the temp. drop and the water vapor goes back into solution. That's why it self-corrects.
