2001 Kodiak VXL 2000

[suzagone]

Shopping for a small Class C, I loved what I learned about this 20 year-old RV with 40k miles. Fiberglass roof, fiberglass coated (?) sides, looked in good condition. Small family sales lot (no website, different name on sign than in texts) say they took this in trade, owned by one elderly couple, etc.

Who I am/what I'm looking for: Part-time teacher, over 60, traveling solo with dog (also a senior), looking for something to use for a couple of long weekends per month and a few longer summer trips around Western U.S. Will need to be comfortable sitting and working at laptop inside. Some moderate hiking and exploring, always on the hunt for hot springs, but nothing extreme. Prefer simple designs, no slides, don't need luxuries.

What's good about this rig: fiberglass, no evidence of water damage I could see, no mildew smell, layout is great for me (jackknife sofa/bed could be left open with about 6-8 inches of space before dinette, kitchen and bath at the back, compact cab), heavier insulation (? haven't verified), heated tanks (? haven't verified), real wood cabinets and all in good condition, made in Canada (Peak) for colder temps (allegedly). Dometic fridge (2-way) with separate freezer. Onan 2100 generator works. Tires seemed okay.

Not so good: kitchen door handle broken and latch is stuck - needs repair, battery and inverter missing, TV gone, one overhead light fixture broke off - it's in the vehicle but needs to be rewired, blinds have been cut out and removed, passenger seat seems jammed forward, won't go all the way back (which makes getting into the seat difficult), definitely more than one owner (waiting to get the VIN and more specific details).

No propane (or battery), so could only test systems with generator. Microwave, lights worked. Furnace untested.

Test drive: steering was very loose - maybe that's typical? Braking okay. Reverse okay.

They're asking $25k for this, which seems ridiculously high for its condition. But hard for me to figure out a fair market price. NADA says 5300 - 6300 but I know those prices aren't based on actual sales data. Enough wrong with this, or didn't match what salesman told me by text, that I don't really trust anything he says. I have contacted a reliable RV repair shop near me (great reviews and recommended by someone I trust) who would do a full inspection for $275, coach elements only. Engine shop down the street would do that inspection.

Do I want to take on a project? Why not. I have more free time than is good for me! I was already expecting to do cosmetic upgrades. But what to offer for something like this? I'm thinking of $12k and see what happens. I know I'll have to put at least a few thousand into this. Even if I put $10k into it, on top of $12 purchase, I'd have a good rig for $22k which still seems worthwhile to me. Am I kidding myself?

Open to hearing your thoughts. Thanks in advance!

 

[CamperAL]

Hi Suzagone,

Seems to me you could do a lot better by buying a six to ten year old coach. $24k is way too much money. Your smart that  you have someone that can inspect it. You need as you said to have the engine looked at but you also need to have someone inspect the chassis as well. Need to know if the rear end has been serviced. A good mobile mechanic that can check everything out might be cheaper than running it to several places to check it out.

My feelings are that it is too old to travel in without a big investment from you to bring it up to shape and they are already too high in price. Then you will probably be putting money into it as you travel due to the age.

Go to: https://www.rvtrader.com/ and look at RV's to get a feel of the value. We want you starting  off right. Others on here which are really great experts, will chime in for you so you get a good general advise. Happy hunting!

 

[oldryder1]

The unit you mentioned is one I would avoid.  "needs repair, battery and inverter missing, TV gone ... No propane (or battery)... steering was very loose  " to me are indications of a lack of respect for the vehicle which is a red flag regarding how it was cared for with regard to regular maintenance.  this unit is a "handyman special" and the handyman would have to be a masochist.

"They're asking $25k for this, which seems ridiculously high for its condition."  it is laughably high.  with the defects you mention they'd do well to get the low end of the NADA range.

Considering your planned use a good option would be an older class B.  some nice ones out there for 8-15,000.  you and a dog don't need much space and a class B is much easier to drive and park.  Raised roof is a big plus in a class B.  some examples:

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1993-Roadtrek-190-POPULAR-5015051778

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2001-Sportsmobile-OTHER-5015004644

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2011-Ford-Econoline-E-250-5011359730

mark in MN

 

[Kevin Means]

First, welcome to the RVForum. There are a lot of things that are important to look for/at when shopping for an RV. Some things, like the floorplan, are subjective, but very important, because you'll be living in it. Are you happy with the floorplan?

RVs require ongoing maintenance - not necessarily a lot of maintenance, but there's always something. It sounds like a lot of the maintenance on that RV was deferred, or ignored, and until it was inspected by an unbiased, experienced RV inspector, or at least a knowledgeable, trustworthy RVer, I wouldn't make any offers. You just don't know if things like the fridge, furnace or water heater are going to work on gas, and it can be pricey to fix them. It makes me wonder if the engine and transmission have been serviced properly.

It probably needs new tires - forget the miles on them, or how they look - tires should be replaced when they're 7 to 10 years old, depending on their condition. RV tires are more expensive than car tires, and you need more of them. Things like the door handle, the blinds and the light can be fixed, and the TV will have to be replaced (unless you don't want to watch TV) but that all costs money.

In my opinion, they're asking too much for an RV in the condition I think it's in, base on what you've described.

Kev

 

[Seilerbird]

20 year old RVs are money pits no matter how good they look to a beginner. I would not pay more that $10k for this money pit. Plan on at least another $10k fixing it up.

People come here all the time with the same story, old coach, excellent condition, everything works. But they never return to tell us what a great investment it was.

 

[oldryder1]

"People come here all the time with the same story, old coach, excellent condition, everything works. But they never return to tell us what a great investment it was."

2 years ago I bought a 2006 Winnie Aspect (2 slides) with 42k miles for $27k.  Enjoyed it for two years and sold it for $31k.  had about $900 in repairs due to improper winterizing by me but no other problems.  sold it to buy a DP. 

I did spend almost a year researching the purchase so I didn't make any of the more obvious mistakes.

I bought from a private party as I believe buying from an RV place more often than not you are talking to a sales person that knows little or nothing about the history of the unit. 

I kept looking until I found one that met my requirements and had an owner that seemed to be fussy and conscientious.

my 2 cents.

 

[Isaac-1]

Occasionally you can find a well maintained older coach that can be a deal, but even then expect a certain level of added ongoing maintenance.  I bought my current coach a 2002 Safari Trek 28 ft class A in 2016 from a private seller for about $20,000, they had put over $10,000 in parts alone into it in the preceding 2 years, doing many updates (new carpet, seating, refrigerator, tires, batteries, inverter, solar panels, etc.), even with all that I have been averaging over $3,000 per year in required maintenance (ball joints, alternator, air condtioner, generator starter, etc.), and that again in upgrades, and semi-optional stuff (window shades, LED lighting, new flat panel TV, shock absorbers, sway bar bushings, etc), with no end in sight.  Perhaps this year I will spend $1,500-$2,000 getting some minor paint and body repair work done, fixing poor paint match on old bumper repair work, maybe another $1,000 on a roof air conditioner, ...

 

[suzagone]

Thank you all. I feel it was a good experience for me, but not ready to make an offer. I wrote back to the dealer and asked for the VIn but he hasn't responded. I'll keep looking. I really appreciate your thoughts.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Used motorhome prices seem crazy-high right now - supposedly due to many people buying isolated housing or travel quarters for the pandemic. Whatever the reason, $20k prices are now common for what was only $10k a year ago. That said, this one has a lot of faults that others have already described. I think I'd pass.

Take a look around for other examples - here's an RV Trader search for used, older Class C's under 26 ft and 18+ years old. Some of these will have major flaws too, but most are asking less $$.

One of the best quality C's around is this one, but the price reflects its status.

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2002-Lazy-Daze-26.5-5014776461

https://www.rvtrader.com/Used-Any-2002-Class-C/rvs-for-sale?type=Class%20C%7C198069&condition=U&year=*%3A2002&length=*%3A26

 

[Rob&Deryl]

One thing to know on a class c is the payload. Many on smaller chassis are near GVWR before you add propane, water, and food & clothes.

There are folks here on the forum who have experience with this. One was overweight right out of the factory.

 

[Isaac-1]

Another note here, Fiberglass and Aluminum roof RV's are lower maintenance than EPDM / Rubber roofs, with TPO and other newer membrane roof materials being somewhere in between.  Note I did not say NO maintenance, regardless of the type of roof, annual roof inspection is highly encouraged, re caulking  the end caps, vent holes, and other roof penetration as needed, as well as replacing vent covers, air conditioner covers, sky lights, etc. when they show signs of cracking or other failure.      The same holds true for window and door sealant, etc.  One of the prime killers of RV's is rot caused by water penetration, which almost always comes from the roof or windows.  How long this caulk / lap sealant, etc. will last depends on the environment as well as quality of the sealant, though realistically one should expect it to at least need touching up every 3-4 years, even if the roof itself may be good for 10-15 years or more without needing re-coating, or replacement.

 

[suzagone]

Thanks again. I'll keep looking. Interesting about RV prices going up. I was thinking they'd be lower this time of year - off-season, uncertain economy - but maybe with all the people moving into them full-time that's increased their value.

 

[DonTom]

Thanks again. I'll keep looking. Interesting about RV prices going up. I was thinking they'd be lower this time of year - off-season, uncertain economy - but maybe with all the people moving into them full-time that's increased their value.

Off season? This is my favorite time of year to travel in my RV!


Sure beats 25F Reno, NV  and rainy Auburn, CA, where I mostly live.


-Don-  in sunny clear 67F Yuma, AZ

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The "off season" in the north is the prime season in the south. Winter sales are hot in Florida, Texas and Arizona, for example.

But this is anything but a typical year, and RV sales ended up booming as people realized they could isolate in them, whether traveling or simply as an alternate apartment in the yard or at work.