2016 GMC Sierra 1500 w/ Tow Package Towing Questions

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chadman8888

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Jan 19, 2018
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My wife and I are interested in buying a TT this year.  I have been researching how much I can tow and I don't know if I have a good handle on it or not.  Can someone please verify my math and thinking?  I would greatly appreciate it.  Here are the specs that I have gathered:

2016 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 SLT Crew Cab SB, 5.3L V8 w/Max Tow Package
GVW = 5,440lbs
GVWR = 7,200lbs
GAWR FRT = 3,950lbs
GAWR RR = 3,950lbs
Maximum Trailer/Towing Capacity = 10,800lbs
GCWR = 16,700lbs
Maximum Tongue Weight w/ Weight Distribution Hitch = 1,200lbs

The calculated weight of 5 passengers, car seats, cargo and Weight Distribution Hitch = 920lbs

According to the GMC manual, the Tongue Weight + GVW + Cargo should be less than GVWR

So if we solve that equation: GVWR (7,200lbs) - Cargo (920lbs) - GVW (5,440lbs) =  Max Tongue Weight (840lbs)

Also, Max Trailer Weight = GCWR - (GVW + Cargo) or 16,700lbs - (5,440lbs + 920lbs) = 10,340lbs Max Trailer Weight

To make sure I am able to pull the trailer without a struggle, I should give myself about a 20% buffer in those numbers.  So if my math and research is correct, I should be able to pull a Max Trailer Weight of 8,272lbs with with up to 840lbs of Tongue Weight.  Does this sound about right or is there something that I am missing?

We will be parking this trailer at a lake that we boat at and will pull it up to twice a year for vacation.  All the forums I have been on so far I have seen that 8,000lbs is way to much to be pulling and that I should be no more than 6,500lbs.

Thank you in advance for your assistance.

Chad

 
I'm no expert on this, but it looks to me like your limitation (like mine) is not GCWR but rather payload capacity of your truck.  If your max tongue weight is 840 lbs (with no safety margin figured in), then I would calculate your max loaded trailer weight at right around 6,460 lbs (840/.13).  If you figure in a 10% safety margin you're looking at loaded trailer weight of no more than 5,800 lbs.

Just my take, YMMV.
 
I'm not a great SPEC's guy but I do have a Yukon XLT, 4x4, 5.3l, with HD tow package, and I would not start off with a trailer over 6000# dry weight.  Mine says it will pull 8200#, yada yada, but nothing stinks more than being under powered.  My TT dry weight is 5000#, loaded up, Yukon full, I'm probably 6500#, and don't feel under-powered, yet don't feel like I'd want much more TT than that behind me.
 
Your calculations are OK as far as they go, but perhaps not the whole story. As others have mentioned, you need to consider your specific truck's payload (cargo capacity), as shown on the yellow sticker on the driver door post.  Because of rear axle limitations, it may be less than what you calculated as GVWR-(GVW+Cargo).  That's the max weight you can carry, including all passengers, gear, WD hitch package, & trailer tongue weight. 

I'm also guessing some of the values you used came from ad brochures or website specs. Your specific truck GVW, Max trailer and Cargo Capacity are likley to be a bit less because of optional equipment installed, choice of trim packages, etc. Those often make a couple hundred lbs difference in critical numbers.
 
Thank you to everyone for the replies.  All of the numbers are coming straight from the door jam stickers and the manual that came from the truck.  You all brought up a good point about the Payload Capacity which I failed to take into consideration.

The Payload Capacity for this truck (according to the sticker) is 1,509lbs.  If I subtract my occupants and cargo I have a maximum of 589lbs of tongue weight left.  Even if I put a 10% buffer in there the maximum tongue weight should be around 530lbs.  This will put the trailer weight considerably lower.  Now if I was just towing the trailer by myself and no cargo (ya right) I could have the maximum tongue weight of the stated 1,200lbs.

Everything is clear now and I see how they come up with there numbers.  Thanks for allowing me to post and work through this.  I appreciate everything.

Now does anyone have a suggestion on what Weight Distribution Hitch to buy?

Chad
 
Equal-I-Zer, or maybe the Fastway E2 for a smaller trailer.  Reese Dual Cam too. Curt has a new TruTrack WD with sway abatement built in, but I haven't seen any user reports yet.  And some like the newer Andersen or Husky WDs.

http://www.curtmfg.com/Category/80/Weight%20Distribution#tab=subcategories
 
chadman8888 said:
Now does anyone have a suggestion on what Weight Distribution Hitch to buy?

I asked this same question on several different boards over the past few days and the overwhelming recommendation was the Equal-i-zer.  The price for a 1/10k with ball directly from Equal-i-zer is $815, but I did a bunch of searching and found it online for about $460 shipped (adventureRV out of TN).  I say "about" because I ordered some other stuff so my shipping was higher, but they were definately the lowest around (significantly less than Amazon too). 

Daz
 
Payload SHOULD equal GVWR minus Curb weight which would give you 1760lbs and mean your original calculations were correct..not sure where the extra 250lbs went to only get you 1509. Unless GVW and curb weight aren?t the same (maybe dry weight with no fuel etc?)
 
brclark82 said:
Payload SHOULD equal GVWR minus Curb weight which would give you 1760lbs and mean your original calculations were correct..not sure where the extra 250lbs went to only get you 1509. Unless GVW and curb weight aren?t the same (maybe dry weight with no fuel etc?)
Payload equals ACTUAL truck weight, including options deducted from  GVWR.  The extra 250 # are options, like power seats, power windows, etc.

In the Ford manual, they define BASE WT as the weight of the base configuration with no options (base is cab style, bed size, drive train, base tires).  They define CURB WT as base wt plus options. 

Different manufacturers may have slightly different ways of phrasing this.  Bottom Line  GVWR is the most the loaded truck can weigh.  Payload is the difference between GVWR and the actual weight of the empty truck, including all options and aftermarket accessories (cap, winch).  All of those weight charts will have footnotes stating these weights must be reduced by the weight of options, cargo and passengers.

YES, IT IS CONFUSING!
 
To Chad, OP,

With Gary's comment and your response, you are right on target.  You did your homework well!!  This is a pleasant break from many similar posts!!
 
I used to have the same truck but Silverado version.  I used to pull a 6,000# TT.  That is as much as I would recommend.  I used an Equalizer WD
 
I spoke with a dealer who recommended the Equalizer, but there are 3 versions...good, better and best with the first at about $350 and the highest at $937.  If I'm looking at a 3/4 ton truck and a 30 ft trailer, would the Best be the appropriate option?
 
MandM said:
I spoke with a dealer who recommended the Equalizer, but there are 3 versions...good, better and best with the first at about $350 and the highest at $937.  If I'm looking at a 3/4 ton truck and a 30 ft trailer, would the Best be the appropriate option?
You are talking about the safety of you and your family. Do you really have to ask?
 
I've been considering this on another perspective.  These trucks can tow anything!  Don't you see the commercials where they tug-o-war the freight trains to prove how "F*@d Tough" they are?  Given the torque and gear ratio's available it isn't hard to get something moving.  It's that sudden STOP at the end that we must consider. I believe all those numbers are measurements of what the braking system will STOP.  I don't want to exceed the safety considerations for that purpose, hence all my questions about this very topic.

Not yet....soon!
 
Rusty, you are absolutely correct!

In addition to stopping, which is critical,  consider also suspension and tire capacities!
 
just search my posts regarding my half ton Sierra with its upgraded towing capacity, you dont want to haul anything close to 10,000 lbs, but if you do, you'll quickly find out why
 
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