RV Amateur
New member
Just purchased a Jayco (Melbourne 24K) on Mercedes Chassis. Went camping it was 108 degrees and our AC could not keep up. Anyone have experience with perhaps a 2nd AC in this size unit?
2nd AC Unit for 25 foot Class C
- Thread starter RV Amateur
- Start date
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SeilerBird
Well-known member
I think there is something wrong with your A/C. One should be able to cool off a small area like that. I would hire a mobile mechanic to check it out.
RV Amateur
New member
Thank you. We were wondering if that might be the issue. The RV is a 2017 with only 30K miles. But... the AC? Might need service. Again, thank you.
SeilerBird
Well-known member
You are welcome. I live in a 33 foot fifth wheel with three slide outs in central Florida. I run my a/c about two hours a day and I am always comfortable.
RV ACs are not a servicable item.
Depending on Where you were parked what tou experiences is likely normal. Remember RVs are not well insulated, and parking in even partial sun can bake the interior real fast. One AC on your size RV I would expect 80-85 degrees inside.
Depending on your RV and if it has 30 or 50A service 2 ACs may not be an option. You could look and see if tou ha e a 13.5K or 15K BTU unit.
Depending on Where you were parked what tou experiences is likely normal. Remember RVs are not well insulated, and parking in even partial sun can bake the interior real fast. One AC on your size RV I would expect 80-85 degrees inside.
Depending on your RV and if it has 30 or 50A service 2 ACs may not be an option. You could look and see if tou ha e a 13.5K or 15K BTU unit.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Have you cleaned the condenser? This requires you go up on the roof. Remove the outer shroud and on a coleman clean the outside of the condenser. Lube any lube points (Likely none) and replace shroud (4 bolts is all it takes)
Other makes removal of outer shroud is 10 or more screws. then an inner cover over the condenser (Procedure varies) and clean the Fan Side of the condenser.. I DO NOT recommend water.. Soft brush and perhaps some not all that compressed air (Say regulated to 10 PSI) though I used more. Be very careful with air you do not want to bend the fins.
Other makes removal of outer shroud is 10 or more screws. then an inner cover over the condenser (Procedure varies) and clean the Fan Side of the condenser.. I DO NOT recommend water.. Soft brush and perhaps some not all that compressed air (Say regulated to 10 PSI) though I used more. Be very careful with air you do not want to bend the fins.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Oh that said on a you said 25 foot. I'm not surprised one A/C is not up to the task.
X-Roughneck Strike 3
Well-known member
I bought a 8000 BTU unit from the "Big River" and Roll it to the Dining room Slide area when I arrive and set up for my poor boy 2nd AC set up. I bought a Heavy Duty Extension Cord 50' and I plug direct into the Pedestal 20 amp spare outlet.
The AC will come with some Window rectangular adapters. I rolled the window down, traced the upper 6 inches on Poster Board paper and transferred the lines and cut the plastic filler with a Dremel. I spray painted them flat black Rattle can Krylon paint. The plastic vent pieces fit perfectly recessed about 1/2 to 3/4 of inch in the Door window groove where the window rolls up into. My Aspect has AC ducts that the louvers in the inside roof can be closed and opened so when running the 8000 BTU AC in the living room I close those vents to throw more AC to the bedroom area.
The Upper plastic fits in the window groove after I cut it with a Dremel. I have that small piece of filler plastic I have to add to close that lower window gap. This is where I run the extension cord out of (Not shown). The AC is suppose to mist the exhaust. The AC has a filler Catch bucket internal as a overflow to dump collected water. Initially I was mocking up the AC to sit on a milk crate between the 2 Ford chairs, but did not want to lift the unit each time and it would seal off entry to the Ford Cab area, so i nixed that plan. The AC also has a escape mist hose that you can run out the slide. I have only used the AC once and found no need to do anything other than route the vent.
If you have a bedroom fantastic fan you can remove it and mount a 11k AC on your roof and use this extension cord approach to poor boy a 2nd AC. Probably be able to route you extension thru your basement area some how just depends on your slides etc. I have a huge storage trunk and was thinking about doing this 11K AC on the roof, but decided against it. Right now the true test will come later when I camp in hotter weather.
Total around $400 investment, easy DIY project.
In a Class C Outside Temp is almost the same as the inside temp. The More slides the more outside air coming in.
JD
The AC will come with some Window rectangular adapters. I rolled the window down, traced the upper 6 inches on Poster Board paper and transferred the lines and cut the plastic filler with a Dremel. I spray painted them flat black Rattle can Krylon paint. The plastic vent pieces fit perfectly recessed about 1/2 to 3/4 of inch in the Door window groove where the window rolls up into. My Aspect has AC ducts that the louvers in the inside roof can be closed and opened so when running the 8000 BTU AC in the living room I close those vents to throw more AC to the bedroom area.
The Upper plastic fits in the window groove after I cut it with a Dremel. I have that small piece of filler plastic I have to add to close that lower window gap. This is where I run the extension cord out of (Not shown). The AC is suppose to mist the exhaust. The AC has a filler Catch bucket internal as a overflow to dump collected water. Initially I was mocking up the AC to sit on a milk crate between the 2 Ford chairs, but did not want to lift the unit each time and it would seal off entry to the Ford Cab area, so i nixed that plan. The AC also has a escape mist hose that you can run out the slide. I have only used the AC once and found no need to do anything other than route the vent.
If you have a bedroom fantastic fan you can remove it and mount a 11k AC on your roof and use this extension cord approach to poor boy a 2nd AC. Probably be able to route you extension thru your basement area some how just depends on your slides etc. I have a huge storage trunk and was thinking about doing this 11K AC on the roof, but decided against it. Right now the true test will come later when I camp in hotter weather.
Total around $400 investment, easy DIY project.
In a Class C Outside Temp is almost the same as the inside temp. The More slides the more outside air coming in.
JD
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Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Before worrying to much about service or cleaning the a/c, measure the temperature drop at the a/c itself, inside the RV. Put a quality thermometer near the air intake (return) - that's the inside ambient air that gets cooled as it passes thru the a/c. Then do a similar measurement at the air outlet, right where it comes out of the a/c. If that temperature is 20-25 degrees lower than the inlet, your a/c is working as designed and doesn't need cleaning or repair. If less than a 20 degree drop, it needs some help.
Any RV heats up fast in the sun and most are rather poorly insulated. Lots of windows (and the windshield too), skylights, etc as well.
Does your coach have a second ceiling vent in the 14x14 standard size? Maybe prepped with wiring for a second a/c? If not, adding another roof a/c is almost surely cost-prohibitive. Do you have room for a portable like Ex-Calif described?
Any RV heats up fast in the sun and most are rather poorly insulated. Lots of windows (and the windshield too), skylights, etc as well.
Does your coach have a second ceiling vent in the 14x14 standard size? Maybe prepped with wiring for a second a/c? If not, adding another roof a/c is almost surely cost-prohibitive. Do you have room for a portable like Ex-Calif described?
crawford 111
Well-known member
I had a 29 ft in fla with 2 people 2 dogs not good it need 2 ac's then much better and then we were able to live in the thing. also it depends on how good they are insulated most have next to nothing for a lot of heat. remember he said it was 108 most rv ac can only drops by 20 degrees so it puts him ad 88 maybe. If you don't believe it go ask a AC repair person.
X-Roughneck Strike 3
Well-known member
Gary made a good point about the AC check to buy a thermometer and check for the -20-25F on the distro side. Make sure your intake filters are washed regularly also. I have a 15K AC, Triple Slides and a 32 ft Motor Home and that 15K ac struggles to keep up. Do you have a 15K on that 25 ft of yours? The 2nd AC really helps in my instance. Best thing we can do is avoid parking in direct sunlight if possible. Camp in cooler weather also..I think Tom said it before. If these things were insulated well enough to keep out the elements they would be too heavy to drive down the road almost.
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IBTripping
Well-known member
Your current a/c is probably a 13,500 BTU a/c. You could replace it with a 15,000 a/c which would help a bit. My 13,500 a/c works great even in 100 F temperatures. But, it gets good shade from the surrounding trees which makes a huge difference.
HueyPilotVN
Well-known member
If you determine that the current A/C is working properly and you still want to add additional cooling and you do have a 14 x 14 vent there is a fairly simple solution.
I had a Dutch Star that needed more cooling several years ago.
I purchased a new roof top A/C unit that had the controls mounted directly to the unit. A 14 x 14 vent opening is what is required as a standard for A/C units.
I mounted it on the roof. I ran a romex cable from the vent location to the side of the motorhome where the Refer was located. I ran it above the ceiling and under the roof. From the area above the refer I ran the cable down next to the refer and then into a storage compartment. I left about 20 feet of cable and put a male plug on the end of the cable.
I would simply take the cable and run it to the extra 15 or 20 amp outlet that is usually located in the electric pedestal. The circuit breaker on the pedestal protects this single use circuit.
This way the second A/C is on it's own circuit so you can add it to an RV with either a 30 or 50 amp rating.
Be sure to get an A/C unit with controls on the unit itself so you do not need a thermostat or wiring for the thermostat.
Good Luck
I had a Dutch Star that needed more cooling several years ago.
I purchased a new roof top A/C unit that had the controls mounted directly to the unit. A 14 x 14 vent opening is what is required as a standard for A/C units.
I mounted it on the roof. I ran a romex cable from the vent location to the side of the motorhome where the Refer was located. I ran it above the ceiling and under the roof. From the area above the refer I ran the cable down next to the refer and then into a storage compartment. I left about 20 feet of cable and put a male plug on the end of the cable.
I would simply take the cable and run it to the extra 15 or 20 amp outlet that is usually located in the electric pedestal. The circuit breaker on the pedestal protects this single use circuit.
This way the second A/C is on it's own circuit so you can add it to an RV with either a 30 or 50 amp rating.
Be sure to get an A/C unit with controls on the unit itself so you do not need a thermostat or wiring for the thermostat.
Good Luck
