50 amp cheater box

[RonPatt]

What do you experts think about this product:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-power-cords/rv-cheater-box.htm

Our regular campground does not have many 50 amp hookups so this would help on those times
when we need the two a/c's.

 

[Ned]

Those will work only if the 20A and 30A outlets are wired from separate circuit breakers.  Sometimes the 20A outlet is wire in parallel with the 30A outlet in which case you're still limited to 30A.  Unless you know how the pedestal is wired, I wouldn't trust it.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I have one, though its a different brand & style than the one you show, and I find that I don't get to use it much. As Ned says, it is not without restrictions. The pedestal may have only 30A total, regardless of the number of outlets, in which case a breaker somewhere will likely trip anyway.  Or, your EMS (if you have one) will limit you to 30A total even though you have 30+20 or 30+15 available. That's because the EMS tests for 50A service by looking for 240v across the two hot wires and there is less than a 50/50 chance that the two hots will be opposite phase and thus 240v.

Addendum: it won't work at all if one of the outlets is protected by a GFCI

[edit]added addendum concerning GFCI[/edit]

 

[RonPatt]

So you do not think that it will cause harm but might not work as expected?

 

[John From Detroit]

The biggest problem with these devices is... THEY DO NOT WORK

Unless you happen to be in a very very old park, most all parks today comply with the National Electric Code and of course local codes. these codes require the 15/20 amp outlet be protected by a GFCI. The "Cheater box" will trip a GFCI 100% of the time, every time, no exceptions as soon as you plug in the 2nd plug the GFCI trips

The only way they work is if you are in a campground that, due to less than 50% occupancy during part of the year, lets you plug into two sites, I DO KNOW of one park that does this during the hot months (July/August) and thus.... They will work there

But if you are trying to use a 30 amp and a 20 amp it very simply will not work

What will work?  http://www.psrv.net  Since this unit "Cuts" one of the air conditioners out of the rig completly, no common ground, it works just fine, at least on my rig.  Plus you get the added benefit of a "Service side" 120 volt outlet, generator powered, should you need to air up a tire or something.

 

[seilerbird]

Those will work only if the 20A and 30A outlets are wired from separate circuit breakers.  Sometimes the 20A outlet is wire in parallel with the 30A outlet in which case you're still limited to 30A.  Unless you know how the pedestal is wired, I wouldn't trust it.

I think you mean seperate circuits. You could have two 30a breakers wired to the same circuit. Not a logical way to do things but I have seen stranger.

 

[Ned]

Yes, separate circuits.  I was thinking of the distribution panel breakers, not at the pedestal.  Thank you.

 

[Ron]

A few year ago when we had the 93 Bounder I was offered one of these devices just for the taking.  However I was so impressed with these devices I declined.  I suspect he ended up tossing it.

 

[porscheracer]

We spend a lot of our time camped at race tracks.  It works just fine at all those facilities we have used it at.  They are not nearly as updated (or RV-friendly) as most parks - nor were the supposed to be.  I have several friends who have similar units, and we use ours all the time.  If I can find two outlets on different legs, it works as it's supposed to.

Are they worth the $$?  It depends.  Probably not if you only camp at RV parks (we've never used it at one), and if you're electrically competent you can build your own for about 1/3 of the price.

 

[scottydl]

if you're electrically competent you can build your own for about 1/3 of the price.

That's a tutorial I'd like to see here. 

 

[Ron]

Personally I think if the parts were free it wouldn't be worth the time it would take to build one.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

So you do not think that it will cause harm but might not work as expected?

That's correct.

John is right  - it won't work at all if the pedestal is protected by a GFCI.  I used mine 3-4 times last year and am using it right now at my home because we have guests staying in the coach (it's our guest apartment too).  My water heater & rear a/c are on L2, so using the cheater box allows me to run one of them if I have a second power source available, which I do at home.  I find it most useful when jury-rigging power for the coach when staying in somebody's yard or driveway. Not much use in campgrounds, for all the reasons already cited here.

 

[JLModer2]

I made one, for about 1/2 the cost of buying one.

USeful?  In certain situations.  Yes, it trips a GFCI, instantly.  But, if you plug it up to two 30 amp plugs on separate circuits, it works.  You do need to remember it still is not "True" 50 amp, as a "True" 50 amp connection is 2 legs of 50 at 120 volts each, where as the 30 amp connection is a single leg of 30 amp from each box you are plugged into, so you still have to watch your power consumption.  We don't use it much, but when we need it we have the option.

John

 

[scottydl]

I made one, for about 1/2 the cost of buying one.

Any chance you have instructions, or could post a tutorial on how this would be done?

 

[John From Detroit]

You need two 30 amp male pigtails and a 50 amp outlet box and socket

Black wire from one pigtail goes to L-1 side terminal on the 50 amp outlet
Black wire from other pigtail goes to the other side terminal (l-2)

White wires from both terminals go to teh "White" terminal (remaining flat blade terminal)

Green wires go both to the Green Terminal (Odd shaped (O or D or U depending on how you look at it) termial

And it's that easy to build

Note that if some Cracker Jack electrician wired an outlet with a black/white reversal in the park where you try to use it

You will... Have a dead short on your hands

 

[SargeW]

Hi Moder!  Good to see you over here!

Sarge