5th wheel hitches

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Rob&Deryl

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My (hopefully soon to be) trailer will need a hitch in my truck.

I have asked about this topic in the past but now is getting more real. I will need one before spring.

The trailer has a GVWR of 14,000 lbs.

I think I want a manual slider.

The truck has factory puck mounts. Makes sense to me to use them.

What hitches should I consider?

Thanks
 

RAMer-Jammer

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Oct 14, 2020
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I just installed the B&W Companion slider for Ram puck system in my 2020 Ram 3500, and it was a piece of cake install.  I love the puck system.  I have a chain hoist in the garage that I can lift it out with any time I need the truck bed clear for hauling.  This is a 20K rated hitch and is built like a tank.
 

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TonyL

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We have the B & W Puck hitch in our short bed F350 and have not had any issues. I am wondering why you think you need a slider?
 

Rob&Deryl

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TonyL said:
We have the B & W Puck hitch in our short bed F350 and have not had any issues. I am wondering why you think you need a slider?

The current owner with a Ford standard bed has a slider but got lazy once and didn?t deploy it and punched out the rear window of the truck.

I don?t want that to happen.
 

TonyL

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Ouch! Couldn't have been paying attention. In 2 years we have towed around 15000 miles and been in some very tight spots in campgrounds, SWMBO is always there to watch the gap, but a wireless camera would do the trick.
 

edjunior

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Roman Forest, TX.
I have had a Curt Q20 manual slider for over 10 years, in three different trucks, and other than the weight of it, I've never had a problem with it.  It is a heavy bugger.  I know it will work with the puck system, but you may need extra parts for it.  I don't know if Curt makes one specifically for the pucks, but I would have to believe they do.  It is a darn fine hitch.
 

steveblonde

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calgary alberta
edjunior said:
I have had a Curt Q20 manual slider for over 10 years, in three different trucks, and other than the weight of it, I've never had a problem with it.  It is a heavy bugger.  I know it will work with the puck system, but you may need extra parts for it.  I don't know if Curt makes one specifically for the pucks, but I would have to believe they do.  It is a darn fine hitch.
Yes curt makes a base to work with the puck systems Ford RamAnd Gm each use a diffent one. The head unit remains the same only the base changes. Get a 20lb hitch - the 16000 lb dont articulate. The Curt  Q series has been replaced with the A series the jaws close differently
 

Rob&Deryl

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steveblonde said:
Yes curt makes a base to work with the puck systems Ford RamAnd Gm each use a diffent one. The head unit remains the same only the base changes. Get a 20lb hitch - the 16000 lb dont articulate. The Curt  Q series has been replaced with the A series the jaws close differently

Thanks for that.

I would prefer a 20k in any case so I could get a heavier trailer sometime down the road.
I am taking my truck to a Curt dealer next week to add a front hitch and winch wiring. Looks like hitch discussions are in order.
 

Roy M

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Yeah, I managed to punch out the back window too but my old fiver does not have a cut away corner to provide extra clearance. It is just a matter of paying attention and knowing the limits. Can your truck safely pull a trailer that would require the 20,000 lb hitch?
 

Rob&Deryl

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Roy M said:
Yeah, I managed to punch out the back window too but my old fiver does not have a cut away corner to provide extra clearance. It is just a matter of paying attention and knowing the limits. Can your truck safely pull a trailer that would require the 20,000 lb hitch?

My trailer is in the 15k range. The truck can tow a 20k trailer but cannot take the pin weight of a 20k 5th wheel.
My next trailer (assuming I like the rv life) will be heavier and will require a dually. Buy once, cry once is my motto so buying one hitch makes sense and the fact that I would need to buy the 20k hitch to get full articulation clinches it.
 

Rene T

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Take a good look at the Anderson hitch. We have a couple members who have this hitch and are really satisfied. The biggest plus is that it only weighs 35# so it?s simple to remove and install. I currently have a Reese hitch and if I could sell it today, I would get a Anderson tomorrow.
 

Rob&Deryl

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Rene T said:
Take a good look at the Anderson hitch. We have a couple members who have this hitch and are really satisfied. The biggest plus is that it only weighs 35# so it?s simple to remove and install. I currently have a Reese hitch and if I could sell it today, I would get a Anderson tomorrow.

I like the idea of the Anderson hitch. I don?t like that it depends on the sheet metal of the bed floor for support.
The ball is anchored to the frame. That is good. But the bottom of the hitch sits on the bed floor.
When breaking, the front of the hitch has to put huge forces on the floor. I worry that it will deform the floor.

If they made one to go I the puck positions and put the force on the frame, I would buy in a minute.
 

Rene T

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I know that one style, it connects to the rails in the bed and those rails are connected to the frame. I?m not real familiar with the other style which is the gooseneck installation. The Anderson hitch is connected to the gooseneck ball and pulls up on it. The  ball is connected to either over the bed rail or under the bed rails. Both gooseneck  styles are still connected to the truck frame.
 

Rob&Deryl

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Rene T said:
I know that one style, it connects to the rails in the bed and those rails are connected to the frame. I?m not real familiar with the other style which is the gooseneck installation. The Anderson hitch is connected to the gooseneck ball and pulls up on it. The  ball is connected to either over the bed rail or under the bed rails. Both gooseneck  styles are still connected to the truck frame.

The ball is tied to the frame but the hitch is a tall shaft supported laterally by a pyramid whose base rests on the truck bed. While vertical forces are supported by the goose ball, lateral forces such as acceleration and stopping are transferred to the truck bed.
 

Rene T

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I know we have 2 members who have this hitch and who are typically on this forum quite frequently so I hope fully they?ll chime in.

If you do a Anderson Hitch search here on the forum, you?ll find a lot of information
 

MtnGoat

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Dec 16, 2018
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I have a pull-rite slider. I would not recommend.

My buddy has an Anderson ball type. He cant say anything but good. Light weight that makes removal a snap. Simple design and coupling is easy and positive.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170213/2b341b9e2e733b25528826a51316c359.jpg
 

Joezeppy

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Upstate NY - Kuyahoora Valley
I've been using an Anderson Ultimate 5th wheel hitch since 2016 and am very happy with it. I have an 8' bed so I can't speak to the geometry of using it in a 6.5' bed but I can tell you that after 4 summers of use, I do not have any type of deformity in the bed floor. I have a LineX spray-in liner and I can see some discoloration in the shape of the hitch's base but I'd describe this as an abrasion or even just a flatting of the high points in the spray material (if you are not familiar with it, it's very rough). My 5th wheel is in the 10,000-10,500 lb range with an estimated 2,200 lbs pin weight. Maybe a heavier 5th wheel would make a difference? I don't know.


My one wish for a change in their design would be to somehow line up the ball and socket directly below the kingpin. As it's designed, the kingpin adapter mandates that it's either 4" ahead or 4" behind the kingpin. For me, that 8" swing means I either can't drop the tailgate (rear position) or take chance that the pinbox hits the bedrail (happened to me one time - backing into a tight camp site that sloped down from the roadway...this could also happen with a sliding hitch, though, and may depend on pinbox design so that may be a moot point).
 
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