95 bounder f-53 460 V8 ,crank sensor,no start fuel pump? Any manuals available for the 460 this year(1995)

[Lilhurryon]

Oops,well I'm lil scrappy for lily and the old refiner I 0ver here(scraper) so I call my name lil scrappy but it's lilhurryon on the forum. Howdy you'll I'm delighted to be a member.
Wishing goodness to us all and may the gift of travel unravel.

I'm asking kindly if someone has a repair manual or download for a 1995 f-53 Ford 460 gasoline V8 in a 34h Fleetwood bounder. Wire schematic/ diagram,etc

 

[YO!]

Hi I`m ED a retired auto truck mechanic. I would recommend using a scanner and pull codes, 1995 is an OBD 1 system. If a crank or cam sensor are bad it will set a code and shut off the fuel pump and maybe ignition. You can buy a scanner $100 more or less, or most major parts stores will scan for free.
I hope that helps. Let me know if you need help. Good luck.

 

[uchu]

It's not easy to find printed or cd copies of Ford service manuals of that vintage (most on eBay are for 2000 and newer).

This one might help you:

1996 Ford F-53 Motorhome Chassis Wiring Diagrams EVTM Manual Electrical Vacuum | eBay

Manual shows normal wear, overall very good condition.

www.ebay.com

 

[jubileee]

I’ve owned many 460 Fords with obd1 eec IV. In a suspected electrical no start condition, unplug the spout connection and if engine starts, you have a bad ignition module. Test takes two minutes.
Very common problem with thin film module going bad with age. Color of module changed with 1995 engine.
Google is your friend. Spout wire is disconnected when timing engine, so lots of information and videos on location and etc.

 

[YO!]

Fords are in a world of their own. Did you fix the problem?

 

[Lilhurryon]

Hey YO! FORD and my four-d-ayS to reply kind of well suited maybe ,but I do apologize about my belated response..
So YO I DO have a concern and question I'm familiar with pulling codes from the 1995 F-53 the old way as far as making a splice wire and jumping the test obd-1 port in the dog house, however are you saying that this obd1 test unit with. The jumper wire is not as complete as the special tool anylizer that a mechanic or auto specialist would have. If so I'm straight for the local pro and would love to check the results out along with the general old flashing check engine sign that reveals the old 3number Ford obd1 code. If it's the same thing Im a little short at my memory which code it actually threw I will update ( got to charge the batteries,ugh) thanks for your thought full reply and info. E in the crazy jungle "bay area"

 

[YO!]

Lilhurryon well you have several options you can buy a OBD-1 code reader but that's all it does read codes, I use a Snap-on scanner that allows the tech to extract and clear codes, monitors perimeters and reprogram system to factory specs.
Ford OBD-1 has 2 tests KOEO (key on engine off) KOER (key on engine run). with that said 1996 I think was OBD-II you need to check on emissions decal. Is it a carburetor, or fuel injected, (EFI is OBD-II).
MY 1988 460 had a no start 2 times the cause was the ignition coil due to bad electrical connection at coil, I cleaned the 2 wire connection, installed a new coil, BINGO it ran.
I would start with the basics, check for spark, and fuel pressure, if no spark check coil and 2 wire connection at coil, (and possibly the timing chain that goes bad after 60,000 miles).
P.S. After 45+ years as an Auto Tech I have never repaired a vehicle over the phone, but I'll try, their is a lot to consider with a no start condition. I hope this helps.
ED

 

[Lilhurryon]

That's amazing "never repaired a vehicle over the phone" (either you don't trust my skills(literacy) or the vehicles are still behind the skills of your nature and Tesla hasn't installed the right chip with Microsoft to verbally set the old motor straight by verbal command") sorry for the sense of humor you must either be an honest man or retired cause it sounds to me virtually reality! I dig it! So far. I could definitely get my blood pumping to give my rig a once over with the coil work as I left out some crucial. Info that I'm afraid to yet mention till I double check the work and tests I have performed,that I'm sure would shoot us in the right direction if we could resolve this as you say over the phone. I'm really not a racist so to speak but ahumble man and wife owned this beauty prior to a terrible please praise the Lord when I say this but a terrible band of gypsy's owed or cruelty operated her for hell knows how long,
ANYWAY THE rig has a inline fuel pump that kicks on kinda stern right when power hits the KOPO mode as well as the original in tank 75 gallon behemoth.
I can safely say besides me being concerned with electrical mayhem in grounding issues the spark plugs aren't changed yet,it did run suspiciously you might say some 250 odd miles and rather well if you consider the San Francisco and freeway demolition derby that I enjoy living in prior to the glump of the last 35-59 miles of her blast was so oddly horrible as the mpg went from hell yeah to God damnit and prices of gas went up then too.ouch.
I'm gonna start slow with my test again on relay, voltage, and gas in the empty lines,I did put gas in the feeder line and as usual she fired right up. The lines are empty
Plus the coil info and I'll start away from timing chain cause I'm not experience yet with one before. The oddest if things also is while parked in a target parking lot someone jammed my rear bumper on the left side leaving my once 90° 90° matching sides like 45°90° as per left to right bumber .the inertia switch in front didn't engage,I was thinking that the rig had one fuel cunkout switch in the rear also by the tank but nevertheless no alter intelligence of Google has revealed such truth and I only dropped the tank the first 8 inches the rails let me without displacing the tank and pump.hmmm

Did I say I'm supposed to be making this my dream home from getting off the streets for a long dreadful time,another story. It's also my 4th rv another stories ,just for my soft side my 350 Windsor 26 foot what ever it was sure was simple and lovely junk when I got it but heaven knows whose watching cause put my time $ and sweat in it and gusto unangelic jealous homeowners decided to pick me out of the umteen sadend women and men whom COVID sent to the curb literally (living in vehicles out here is kind of a plush scenario compared to the zombies and who knows whatgypsys that I'm sure have wonderful rvs by now.
Love the help my friend and the word my regards.E

 

[Old_Crow]

P.S. After 45+ years as an Auto Tech I have never repaired a vehicle over the phone, but I'll try, their is a lot to consider with a no start condition. I hope this helps.
ED

****, I've got 5 grown kids and I get a minimum of 2 calls a week asking for me to fix something over the phone. My favorite was when one of the kids had an old Ford ambulance with the pre-computer diesel. I worked in GM dealerships for over 20 years and wasn't ever much of a diesel guy, even GM diesels.

Oh, and tell him how much you paid for that Snap-On scanner that'll do live data and testing. Not something most DIY guys are interested in investing in.

 

[YO!]

Well! Interesting, I insure I didn't mean to insult you. Knowing some history you may have to make it work. The wire diagram your looking for should be the same as the E-350. If you want I'll send you a diagram that I think will help. (It's a simple system) make sure there's no wires misrouted laying on the exhaust manifolds that will melt together and cause havoc.
Back to The Basics is it carbureted or fuel injected, how much fuel pressure, is the fuel good, is the fuel filter clean, (maybe more then 1) are fuel hoses good, do you get spark, are the spark plugs good? You may try to spray carb cleaner in carb and see if it starts.

 

[YO!]

****, I've got 5 grown kids and I get a minimum of 2 calls a week asking for me to fix something over the phone. My favorite was when one of the kids had an old Ford ambulance with the pre-computer diesel. I worked in GM dealerships for over 20 years and wasn't ever much of a diesel guy, even GM diesels.

Oh, and tell him how much you paid for that Snap-On scanner that'll do live data and testing. Not something most DIY guys are interested in investing in.

I know what you mean, I worked for GM as well, Cadillac & Oldsmobile. The scanner I have is a MT-2500, with a 2000 update, you can get on ebay for a reasonable price because there obsolete.

 

[Old_Crow]

I know what you mean, I worked for GM as well, Cadillac & Oldsmobile. The scanner I have is a MT-2500, with a 2000 update, you can get on ebay for a reasonable price because there obsolete.

I just got off the phone with one of my boys back in Arkansas (I'm currently in California). He's having trouble with his BMW motorcycle and wanted help.

 

[YO!]

That's par for course.