A/C condensation running down the side. Waaaaa!

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4EZDAYS

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Jun 1, 2012
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Couldn't find a solution in "search"... so I'll ask.  Any way to eliminate the condensation from running off the roof spotting the glass and gel coat.  I've put on gutter extensions which work OK when the wind isn't blowing and use a wastebasket to keep from splashing onto the tires and rims but have to put up with the annoying dripping sound.
Is there a fix for this?
 

Ken & Sheila

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Sorry, but the only solution I know of is to buy a coach with internal drain lines from the roof ACs to under the coach or to buy a coach with basement air.

I did hear of one guy who added an external drain line from the roof AC to the Refrigerator top vent, then ran the line down behind the frig and teed into the frig's condensation tube that drained under the coach. I have no idea if it worked out.

ken
 

John From Detroit

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Came across this quite by accident.
As hinted above some coaches have a A/C drain,  I don't know where it goes but I know they can fill a bucket real fast.

However oddas are your A/C is "Convertable"

To convert it to a drain type you need three things.

First and foremost.. The installation manual, This will not only tell you if it can be done it will tell you HOW TO DO IT (Very important)

2nd And adapter (This is the device that converts it) Details, if it exists, will be in the aforementioned manual

3: Tubing,

YOu will also have to lay out a route, and figure out a way of securing the tubing (DIcor on the roof) and so on.

One route that might work . run it across the roof to one of the vents. down alongside the stink pipe (What we called it when I did roofing) till it comes out in the web bay down below, and on through a hole in the floor of the wet bay where it can run freely on the ground all day long and never spot your wax job.
 

Jusdoit

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has anyone tried to use the a/c unit's hot gas line to evaporate the condensate? it is done that way in many "thru the wall" units in hotels n motels
 

K and J

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On my coach there are drain tubes made from plastic tubing attached to the roof with dabs of silicone type adhesive.  These are led down into the engine compartment  and out to drain under the vehicle.

Keith
 

Icemaker

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Jusdoit said:
has anyone tried to use the a/c unit's hot gas line to evaporate the condensate? it is done that way in many "thru the wall" units in hotels n motels

Some have a "slinger" ring on the condenser fan that picks up the condensate and distributes it to the condenser thus eliminating the condensate and gaining a tad more efficiency.. why they aren't on RV's I have no clue..

George
 

Wavery

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Icemaker said:
Some have a "slinger" ring on the condenser fan that picks up the condensate and distributes it to the condenser thus eliminating the condensate and gaining a tad more efficiency.. why they aren't on RV's I have no clue..

George
The purpose for the "slinger ring" is to increase the cooling capacity of the condenser by circulating water over it (water removes heat ~4x faster than air). A bi-product of this process is that some of the water evaporates in the process (taking heat with it). However, in humid conditions there will still be more condensate than the condenser pan can hold.

A tube to a sink or toilet vent is a good idea. I'd just let the water go into the holding tank. I doubt it would be more than a few gallons a day.

The only thing that I would recommend is to run the tube all the way to the bottom of the vent. The condenser water is pure, untreated water and can build bacteria quickly. It may be a good idea to spray a little bleach down the vent once in awhile  ;).
 

John From Detroit

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ON some RV's it is ducted to the ground via tubing or pipes, however the problem is these pipes may clog up on you and make a mel of a hess. as they say

ADVENT, for example has an optional ducting kit,,, I can descrive it and you can build one for most any A/C

It's a funnel that attaches just below the "lip" where the water drips out of the condensate tray, in the case of the Advent 1500 that's on the driver's side of the RV. in the case of the Carrier Air V, it's to the rear.  But you find that lip, put a small collection box with a barb fitting in it's side and you can port the stuff any where you can find to port it to.
 

dave61

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Here is a free fix, park so the drivers side is slightly lower than the passenger side and let the water drain off that side where it is out of the way.
 

Jammer

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Both of the roof air units on my TT have drains that go through the walls and down to the bottom of the belly pan.

It's expensive and fiddly to get this right at the factory and even more expensive and fiddly to do it as an aftermarket mod.  Some A/Cs have reasonable provisions for connecting a drain while some do not.  I don't have a complete list but the Dometic Penguin models all have drain connections, and I believe Carrier rooftop air (no longer in production) had a kit available for that.

Yes, the lines can plug, but they can almost always be cleaned out with a stiff wire and gentle application of compressed air.  I haven't had to do it yet after 3 years.

 

John From Detroit

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Where I used to work we had a Lippart HEVCAC this thing controlled both temp and humidity and the drain line clogged due to alge.. Mel of a hess as it flooded and due to a computer floor.. We did not notice.

After they cleaned it, I dropped a couple of chlorine tabs (Swimming pool stuff) in the tray, worked better after that.
 

Wavery

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John From Detroit said:
Where I used to work we had a Lippart HEVCAC this thing controlled both temp and humidity and the drain line clogged due to alge.. Mel of a hess as it flooded and due to a computer floor.. We did not notice.

After they cleaned it, I dropped a couple of chlorine tabs (Swimming pool stuff) in the tray, worked better after that.
Chlorine is very caustic. 10% solution of Clorox laundry bleach would be just as affective and about .1% as caustic.
 

drzagar

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Can Waverly indicate what a Barb fitting is.  He indicated that was needed to help drain condensate from the roof.  I have a similar problem with my Air V....trailer is a vintage 1971 FAN Winchester that is permanently parked on a level concrete surface under cover. A/C works very well, is super clean, but the condensate is running down a newly painted outer skin. 

If you can be a bit more specific, it would help.  Thanks a bunch.


Dr. Z
 

John From Detroit

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The Air V is not equipped for a condensate drain, However easily done.

All you need to do is find the drip lip (it is on the rear of the unit when you remove the cover, NOT the very rear, but as I recall in front of the fan/condenser, Will know more tomorrow, need to clean mine) you put a cup (Square is best) under it, and a fitting to a hose that runs off to where you want it to drain.. You can simply glue the cup to the roof if you like under the lip.

I would use a fairly good size hose.. Algae likes to grow in them and clog them.
 

Ernie n Tara

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Winnebago,  and I'm others I'm sure, has a molded plastic filter (about two inches long) that slides on the end of a 3/8" ?? Drain hose and prevents bugs entering the hose. Looks cheap and works very well for the year and a half I've had the MH. When it clogs with algae,  just squeeze to clear it (mine are in the engine service compartment).

Ernie
 

John From Detroit

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Went up to do a bit of condenser cleaning this AM on my Carrier Air V.. so did some checking.

Two drain points.. One is drivers side, a few inches behind the evaporator/blower cover, the other passenter side near the condenser  LOOKS like with a bit of work you could slip a hose over that one, that is the lower drain. Neither is well placed for a hose drain.
 
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