A Different LiFePo4 Battery Question

Isaac-1

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Given the ongoing improvements and reduction in cost of all aspects of converting to LiFePo4 batteries, why is it week after week we repeat the debate of should I switch to LiFePo4? When ever increasingly to me and many others that have made the switch it seems the question should be more like, Is there any case why people should stick with lead acid?

I made the switch to LiFePo4 almost 3 years ago, at a cost of right at $2,000, while roughly doubling my amp hour capacity (going from 215AH to 400AH at 12v), I managed to do it for this amount thanks to some well timed sales, and buying some cosmetically discounted batteries from a US seller of imported batteries (the specs printed on the batteries were incorrect). Of this $2,000 price tag, $1,500 of it was for the batteries themselves, the rest was wiring to relocate the batteries and a DC-DC charger/ MPPT controller, today I can buy identical spec batteries online for under $750, which is HALF the price I paid 3 year ago, I can't say the same about anything else in our era of inflation. The charge controller /DC-DC charger is selling for about the same price as 3 years ago, it is currently selling for a few dollars more, I am not going to look up the incidental stuff, terminal lugs, battery cables, etc. as I suspect they are all in the same ballpark, minus inflation adjustment. So all totaled the battery setup that cost me $2,000 after careful shopping 3 years ago, could now be bought for right at $1,250.

All this for a system using batteries with a 5 year warranty (many brands are now offering 10 year), and a 10-20 year estimated service life with 5,000+ charge cycles, compare this to lead acid where at best you get a 3 year warranty which is often a 3 year prorated warranty, and only 1 year full replacement, which lasts maybe 500 charge cycles if you are lucky, can easily be killed unless constantly monitored, float charged, and watered, and in the real world tend to have a service life of 3-5 years. 4 Trojan T-105 6V batteries are currently being advertised by various sellers with local pickup for around $180 each ($720 for circa 430 AH of capacity at 12V, which is essentially price parity with LiFePo4).

All of this makes me beg to ask, Why would anyone buy Lead Acid Anymore? We are at price parity with Lead Acid on the batteries, have already beaten price parity for AGM which seem to start at about $1,000 for 430AH at 12V.

p.s. In 3 years of use the total of the maintenance I have done on my LiFePo4 batteries is checking to make sure the terminal lug bolts are still properly torqued, and occasionally checking the status of the battery in the bluetooth app. No water to mess with, no terminal corrosion to mess with, they just sit there and do their job, they are happy to sit at any state of charge, no need to constantly float charge, they just work.
 
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It's getting closer even for me, the complicating factor being updates to the house charge circuits. I get perfectly adequate service from a pair of GC2's, looks like I'll get 7 years out of this set (they're at 90% on year 6). 7 years service for ~$250 isn't a bad run. One could argue I'd get twice the calendar life out of Lithium but it would cost nominally twice as much. Easy math says that's a wash but I look at lost opportunity too. And, odds are high I won't own the RV long enough just to basically break even. So it's still not a slam dunk but if one was interested in shedding weight or reducing charge time it's getting easier to rationalize the switch. Much like LED lighting, having a set of lithium house batteries could easily be "lifetime" in terms of a given owners term of ownership, and then it just becomes part of sunk cost for having an RV.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Given the ongoing improvements and reduction in cost of all aspects of converting to LiFePo4 batteries, why is it week after week we repeat the debate of should I switch to LiFePo4? When ever increasingly to me and many others that have made the switch it seems the question should be more like, Is there any case why people should stick with lead acid?

I made the switch to LiFePo4 almost 3 years ago, at a cost of right at $2,000, while roughly doubling my amp hour capacity (going from 215AH to 400AH at 12v), I managed to do it for this amount thanks to some well timed sales, and buying some cosmetically discounted batteries from a US seller of imported batteries (the specs printed on the batteries were incorrect). Of this $2,000 price tag, $1,500 of it was for the batteries themselves, the rest was wiring to relocate the batteries and a DC-DC charger/ MPPT controller, today I can buy identical spec batteries online for under $750, which is HALF the price I paid 3 year ago, I can't say the same about anything else in our era of inflation. The charge controller /DC-DC charger is selling for about the same price as 3 years ago, it is currently selling for a few dollars more, I am not going to look up the incidental stuff, terminal lugs, battery cables, etc. as I suspect they are all in the same ballpark, minus inflation adjustment. So all totaled the battery setup that cost me $2,000 after careful shopping 3 years ago, could now be bought for right at $1,250.

All this for a system using batteries with a 5 year warranty (many brands are now offering 10 year), and a 10-20 year estimated service life with 5,000+ charge cycles, compare this to lead acid where at best you get a 3 year warranty which is often a 3 year prorated warranty, and only 1 year full replacement, which lasts maybe 500 charge cycles if you are lucky, can easily be killed unless constantly monitored, float charged, and watered, and in the real world tend to have a service life of 3-5 years. 4 Trojan T-105 6V batteries are currently being advertised by various sellers with local pickup for around $180 each ($720 for circa 430 AH of capacity at 12V, which is essentially price parity with LiFePo4).

All of this makes me beg to ask, Why would anyone buy Lead Acid Anymore? We are at price parity with Lead Acid on the batteries, have already beaten price parity for AGM which seem to start at about $1,000 for 430AH at 12V.

p.s. In 3 years of use the total of the maintenance I have done on my LiFePo4 batteries is checking to make sure the terminal lug bolts are still properly torqued, and occasionally checking the status of the battery in the bluetooth app. No water to mess with, no terminal corrosion to mess with, they just sit there and do their job, they are happy to sit at any state of charge, no need to constantly float charge, they just work.
Would you explain this the the CEO, please?
 
All of this makes me beg to ask, Why would anyone buy Lead Acid Anymore?
The stock LA batteries do fine in my Class A. No water to check, and the cables stay clean, all work fine, easy to get to. I see no reason to change them to Lifep04.

I have my extra 300-AH Lifep04 battery for my toys (ham radio) and other high-current stuff. I see no reason to not leave the stock batteries as they are.

And I am not sure how changing them will affect other things. The solar and converter are tied in with the L-A engine battery in this thing. Keeps everything well charged.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
I'm in agreement with Mark & Don. While the LiFe batteries are now probably optimal from a price performance standpoint, LA remains an entirely adequate solution for many RVers. It's popular for battery aficionados to portray LA as dirty, troublesome, high maintenance etc, but those shortcomings are often exaggerated. And many owners have little dependency on battery power anyway, so changing battery tech is very low priority.

That said, drop in LiFe replacement is now probably practical for many, even though the battery may never reach 100% charge. We just need to make it easier for non-experts to determine that they are a candidate for a simple drop-in with no other changes to their systems.
 
The stock LA batteries do fine in my Class A. No water to check, and the cables stay clean, all work fine, easy to get to. I see no reason to change them to Lifep04.

I have my extra 300-AH Lifep04 battery for my toys (ham radio) and other high-current stuff. I see no reason to not leave the stock batteries as they are.

And I am not sure how changing them will affect other things. The solar and converter are tied in with the L-A engine battery in this thing. Keeps everything well charged.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

-Don- Reno, NV
I'm in agreement with Mark & Don. While the LiFe batteries are now probably optimal from a price performance standpoint, LA remains an entirely adequate solution for many RVers. It's popular for battery aficionados to portray LA as dirty, troublesome, high maintenance etc, but those shortcomings are often exaggerated. And many owners have little dependency on battery power anyway, so changing battery tech is very low priority.

That said, drop in LiFe replacement is now probably practical for many, even though the battery may never reach 100% charge. We just need to make it easier for non-experts to determine that they are a candidate for a simple drop-in with no other changes to their systems.
I have always had good luck with LA batteries. But then, I'm pretty good at keeping them maintained - reservoirs filled, posts and wiring clean, charger maintained, etc. I seldom get less than 50% more life out of them than the warranty. A 4-year warrantied battery will almost always last me at least 6 years.

Matter of fact, I had one that I pulled from a Fish & Game Boston Whaler in 2008 that had been installed in 2005 just because we changed batteries before they actually died on us out on the water. F&G didn't want it, so I put it in my bass boat. Ten years later, in 2018, I gave it to a friend to use in his jon boat so that battery was 13 years old at that time and was still going strong.

Take care of your batteries and they will last you for many years.
 
Also, most Lifep04 batteries require to be stored at around 60% SOC or whatever. IMO, that is a big hassle, compared to keeping a L-A at full charge.

However, my 300-AH Ampere time manual says to store at 100% SOC. That means I can just leave it as the solar will keep the charge at 100%. But this Lifep04 is the exception. It uses extra heavy cells and is built in a 200AH case.

I wouldn't want to bother with a battery that must be stored at 60% SOC--a big hassle to deal with until the technology catches up. It hasn't for RVs--yet.

An example of better technology will be my 2023 Zero DSR/x motorcycle. It AUTOMATICALLY goes into storage mode after 30 days and somehow puts the battery right at 60% when the charger is left on. I do not know what is used for a load to slowly get the battery down to 60% if started at full charge--but it works.

A similar issue on my Energica motorcycle. I can feel what seems to be normal regen at 100% SOC--but there is NO regen at all at 100% SOC. I do not know where this power is going--but it is not to the battery. BTW, its storage mode is a bit different, I need to select "LPR" (Long Period Rest) is not automatic. It will keep the charge at 85% SOC and I must be below that 85% when it is stored, with a charge voltage (120 VAC will do). It will NOT automatically discharge in LPR.

When will such technology as my Zero DSR/X come to RVs with the Lifep04 batteries which often cannot be stored at 100%? I assume not until new RVs come with stock Lifep04 batteries.

Perhaps that will not be too far off. Or else they will use Lifep04 batteries like mine designed to be stored at 100% SOC--just as are L-A batteries.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
All these technical details about charge levels, storage, freezing, etc. is what discourages many owners from switching to LiFe. If they have to worry about that stuff, then it's not a "drop-in replacement". A sufficiently smart battery BMS can mitigate most such concerns, but the cheaper LiFe products often don't have all the nice BMS features either.
 
It's popular for battery aficionados to portray LA as dirty, troublesome, high maintenance etc, but those shortcomings are often exaggerated. And many owners have little dependency on battery power anyway, so changing battery tech is very low, priority.
Based on a lot of years of observing RV use, I suspect that the vast majority of them rarely, if ever spend a night without an electric connection. When that is the situation, the least expensive battery is usually the best choice and will serve well.
 
When that is the situation, the least expensive battery is usually the best choice and will serve well.
It probably won't be long before the Lifep04 batteries are less expensive than lead-acid. And even then, I expect the lead acids to still be around, as they too have some advantages over the Lifep04 batteries. Especially when it comes to temperature extremes and extremely heavy loads (such as engine starting). Unless they make some improvements with the lith batteries, the lead acids will still be around for a long time even if they will soon cost more than the lith batteries.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
Don, etc. what I see with LiFePo4 rules like storing at 60% charge is a lot like of lot of the traditional wiring size rules, etc for solar, ie they made sense at some point when the technology was a lot more expensive. That storing at 60% SOC probably extends the life of the LiFePo4 battery by 20% vs just letting it float charge at circa 100% SOC, the probably made a lot of sense 4 years ago when a 100AH battery was $1,000 it makes a lot less sense when a 100AH battery is $200. As to freezing, many of the cheaper LiFePo4 batteries have low temperature charging protect where they will simply not charge at freezing temperatures, and more and more are now self heating, which in effect makes then nearly drop in and forget.
 
Based on a lot of years of observing RV use, I suspect that the vast majority of them rarely, if ever spend a night without an electric connection. When that is the situation, the least expensive battery is usually the best choice and will serve well.
IMO, Isaac-1 asked a great question here.

In just a few messages, those reading can decide if the switch to Lifep04 batteries is right for them. As we can all see, it is NOT always all advantages.

But it's more than half-right for me.

My house battery is the single 300-AH Lifep04 battery in my Y2K Class C.

My stock house battery in my 2022 Class A will stay as a lead-acid. But I added a 300-AH battery with its own converter, large pure-sinewave inverter, and DC2DCC. The input to my DC2DCC is the stock lead acid battery, set to an input voltage where my added Lifep04 battery will only charge after the stock house L-A batteries are fully charged. This also adds solar to my 300Ah Lifep04 battery.

And all my batteries can stay at 100% charged all year.

There are also some other nice advantages of the higher DC voltage. For one example, I chopped off the clamps on my 12-volt DC tire compressor that requires the engine to be running. It now has an Anderson connector that I can connect to the same cable clamps OR to the ~14V DC Anderson connector directly on my Lifepo4 battery and then have no need to start the engine to add PSI to a tire.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
Don, etc. what I see with LiFePo4 rules like storing at 60% charge is a lot like of lot of the traditional wiring size rules, etc for solar, ie they made sense at some point when the technology was a lot more expensive. That storing at 60% SOC probably extends the life of the LiFePo4 battery by 20% vs just letting it float charge at circa 100% SOC, the probably made a lot of sense 4 years ago when a 100AH battery was $1,000 it makes a lot less sense when a 100AH battery is $200. As to freezing, many of the cheaper LiFePo4 batteries have low temperature charging protect where they will simply not charge at freezing temperatures, and more and more are now self heating, which in effect makes then nearly drop in and forget.
Yes, the technology is improving as the battery cost decreases. Common after something is mass-produced as these batteries are these days.

I recently discovered that my newest electric motorcycle has a heater built into the battery to help with cold weather charging.

Now, they just have to find a way to reduce the heat on extra-hot days. AFAIK, all modern EV cars have battery preconditioning in some way. Heat as well as coolant to get the battery ready for perhaps a 250 KW charge. Not sure if or how they will do this on motorcycles.

Or perhaps they will invent a better battery that is not as temperature-sensitive as our current liFepo4 batteries.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
Given the ongoing improvements and reduction in cost of all aspects of converting to LiFePo4 batteries, why is it week after week we repeat the debate of should I switch to LiFePo4? When ever increasingly to me and many others that have made the switch it seems the question should be more like, Is there any case why people should stick with lead acid?

Some folks are liberal and endorse new technology, Some are conservative and want to make no changes and some folks are cautious and see the stories about battery Fires and think "not just yet". I'm moving from the last to the first as I type., When I replace the Lead Acid that provide emergency power here I'll go LiFePO4
 
It is easy to replace LA with Li if your charger is compatible and you can do the wiring changes yourself. If you have an older rig and have to changeout the charger, life can get complicated quickly. Our 2018 had a Magnum charger/converter than could be programmed to handle lithium batteries easily. It is also easy to set our charge system to charge only up to 60%, and that’s what we do when sitting for a while. But the vast majority of people I know only stay without an electrical hookup for a night or so at a time when they stop for a Harvest Host on the way to the destination. Why should they change?
 
My point is why should they not change when their current lead acid battery wears out, as LiFePo4 batteries may well last the life of the RV.
 
My point is why should they not change when their current lead acid battery wears out, as LiFePo4 batteries may well last the life of the RV.
A reasonable question, but for many the LA battery might also serve them as long as they need it. In that case, it's sort of the devil you know vs a stranger. In other words, a more comforting choice.
 
My point is why should they not change when their current lead acid battery wears out, as LiFePo4 batteries may well last the life of the RV.
Also, why SHOULD they switch? Is there a compelling reason for everyone, or only for a few, if at all?

After all, the case you make in your original post isn't compelling for everyone.
 
Batteries are a "horses for courses" option.

I think for most people that don't boondock, an FLA or AGM would suffice.

For those like me who only boondock and has a wife with hormone issues that hates heat and humidity, sets the a/c to 68 degrees and hates generator noise.. well.. lithium is the better choice. LOL
 

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