A few issues to clarify please

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

UK-RV

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2005
Posts
822
Location
UK
Hi Guys

I have a few questions on topics Im unsure of - anyone help please.

Coach Batteries

I am heading toward Miami where Im planning to buy 4 Trojan T-105 batteries.

The cost is $100 each including fitting + tax, which appears a good price.

Q1. Am I better paying $100 for a Trojan or paying $150 for a Universal AGM battery ?

Q2. What should be the OLDEST manufactured date on the batteries and where will I find the date (will it be in code etc) ?

Water Heater

Q3. When on Propane, our water heater is so loud you can hear it 5 sites away - is that "normal" ?

Q4. When we are at a CG I thought the water would be kept hot by the CGs shore power. But, even on a warm night, as soon as we turn on the Propane heater in the morning, it kicks in for several minutes, suggesting the electric hasnt kept the water hot. How do we check ?

Q5. Around the water heater door, there is damage to the paintwork where the hot water overflow has run out. I have the paintwork down as a warranty repair when we get to Lazydays, but do you think there should be some warranty fix to stop it happening in future. (I know several older Fleetwood owners have run a tube from the overflow down inside the coach and hanging out under the rear end for leaks to drip onto the street).

Thanks
Paul




 

Tom

Administrator
Joined
Jan 13, 2005
Posts
49,033
Paul,

Trojans will usually outlast other batteries by a good margin. (I know people who've had 10 years out of a set). OTOH I had 5.5 years out of the last set of 10 "good generics" on our boat. There's no propane on board, so it's all electric and has more/heavier loads than our coach. Running times are often short and much of our summer boating is the equivalent of boondocking (i.e. they get a lot of abuse).

How long do you plan to keep the coach after you return to the UK? If only a couple of years, Trojans might be an overkill.

Battery distributors usually turn their batteries around in a short time rather than having them sit on the shelf for a long time. So find yourself a distributor such as one who supplies local golf courses, then age will be a non-issue.

 

Tom

Administrator
Joined
Jan 13, 2005
Posts
49,033
Many water heaters I've heard, including ours, are very loud. I've assumed it's normal, but maybe someone can help educate us both.

Have you turned on a hot water tap in the morning before turning on the propane switch? Is the water hot? The water heater will have two thermostats, one controlling the electric element(s) and one controlling the propane. It's possible (likely) that one is set slightly higher than the other.
 

Gary RV_Wizard

Site Team
Joined
Feb 2, 2005
Posts
74,959
Location
At my Silver Springs FL home
Trojans are top quality batteries and well worth the price.  AGMs don't work any better electrically, but they have zero maintenance (not water to check/refill) and can be installed in unventilated areas or even laid on their side.  If any of those features has value to you, get the AGMs. Otherwise go with the Trojans.

As for the heater, there are two separate thermostats, one for electric and one for LPG. Typically the LPG t-stat is a bit hotter than the electric one, so the propane comes on for a bit even though the electric was working fine. If your wate ris hot enough without turning on the propane, don't worry about it. If not, you may need to replace the electric t-stat or perhaps even the electric heating element. But I doubt it.
 

Just Lou

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2005
Posts
8,105
It is sometimes possible to reduce the sound of the burner by adjusting the air/fuel mixture with the air shutter.  It needs to be adjusted just to the point of removing any yellow from the flame.  If set too blue it will sound like a blow torch.
 

Ned

Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Feb 1, 2005
Posts
25,107
Location
USA
Q1. Am I better paying $100 for a Trojan or paying $150 for a Universal AGM battery ?

My personal preference is for the AGMs, as they require no maintenance.  That's a good price relative to the Trojans, AGMs are typically about twice the price of flooded cell batteries.  But, as Tom asks, if you're not going to keep the coach for at least another 5 years, it may not be worth the extra expense.

Q2. What should be the OLDEST manufactured date on the batteries and where will I find the date (will it be in code etc) ?

There will be a date code on the batteries, but as pointed out by Tom, they turn over the inventory frequently so I wouldn't worry about it.  The shelf life of a new battery is quite long.

Q3. When on Propane, our water heater is so loud you can hear it 5 sites away - is that "normal" ?

Yes, they do make a lot of noise, and if the burner is adjusted correctly, there isn't anything you can do about it.  I often hear other water heaters from inside our well insulated coach.

Q4. When we are at a CG I thought the water would be kept hot by the CGs shore power. But, even on a warm night, as soon as we turn on the Propane heater in the morning, it kicks in for several minutes, suggesting the electric hasnt kept the water hot. How do we check ?

It's most likely that the gas thermostat is a higher temperature setting than the electric.  Our old water heater did the same thing.

Q5. Around the water heater door, there is damage to the paintwork where the hot water overflow has run out. I have the paintwork down as a warranty repair when we get to Lazydays, but do you think there should be some warranty fix to stop it happening in future. (I know several older Fleetwood owners have run a tube from the overflow down inside the coach and hanging out under the rear end for leaks to drip onto the street).

It sounds like there is no air head in the water heater and the TPR valve is weeping.  Drain the water heater by opening the TPR valve with the drain plug out, then close the TPR valve, replace the drain plug, turn on the water and the air head will be reestablished.  If it starts weeping again, then the TPR valve may be leaking.  They can get mineral deposits in them that keeps the valve from closing completely and the air head will leak out, followed by water.
 

UK-RV

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2005
Posts
822
Location
UK
Thanks Guys

I think I will run with the Trojans at $100+tax fitted (www.batterysalesusa.com)

Will also look deaper into the water heater / leaking issue.

Thanks again.

Paul
 

Tom

Administrator
Joined
Jan 13, 2005
Posts
49,033
Sounds like a good deal on the Trojans Paul.
 

John From Detroit

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Posts
25,387
Location
Davison Michigan
1: Trojans... Very nice batteries.  Normally I don't see "Trojan/AGM"  I see Trojan/Costco (or Sams) and the answer is always the same,,, Get Trojan's  (Heck, if you don't ask me just ask a Trojan dealer.. he's got the long winded explanation way.

2: Hot water should not blister paint, at least not at temps below super heated steam, unless the paint is wet.

3: Hot water should not be leaking out either unless 1: you have another problem or 2: you are NOT using an in-line pressure regulator on the rig's water supply line (some parks can hit you with 80 or more PSI of pressure, the hot water heater is designed to work at <50PSI.  Here is what happens, at 50 psi as the water heats it expands, pressure goes up, perhaps as high as 70 or 80 psi, no problems,  At 80 pis, as the water heats and expands, again pressure goes up, perhaps as much as 100-120 psi and at these pressures the pressure relief will drip, drip, drip, drip.

4: Water heater operation on gas/electric.  Some heaters have different thermostats for gas/electric,  Some may fire the gas when it's first turned on as a "Test" procedure.

5: Finally, the loudness of the gas burner... As someone else said, that is an air/fuel adjustment and can be reset by a skilled user or technician.  I have done this kind of thing a few times, but prefer to suggest professional help rather than explaining the procedure... Should I make a mistake working on My rig I know who to blame,  Should you screw it up acting on my advice then who is at fault is not as clear and I would feel bad.  Thus I suggest professional help.
 

UK-RV

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2005
Posts
822
Location
UK
Thanks John

Ann-Marie has been suggesting I need Professional Help for a long, long time.  ;D

We purchased a pressure regulator when we first got the RV so we know that is OK.

Im trying to get the digital camera to work again, and will post some pics of the paint damage - it's like scale marks on a kettle but it wont wipe off (obviously I dont want to scrubb too hard).

Paul

 

BruceinFL

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2005
Posts
3,205
Are you sure your hot water heater is also heated electrically? Not all have that option. If it does, have you checked to make sure the switch for the electric portion of the hot water heater is turned on? The on/off switch on mine is located inside the hot water heater access door, not inside the RV.
 

UK-RV

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2005
Posts
822
Location
UK
Hi Guys

Got the 4 new Trojan T-105s yesterday.

We called into the wholesaler and they fitted them for us.

It actually took 90 minutes to fit them as they gave the whole bay a good clean and scrubbed the connectors clean too.

They gave me the invoice and had only charged $95 per battery INCLUDING the fitting (which I thought was an extra $5 each).

So, if any of you are heading toward Miami, I can recommend a stop at Battery Sales USA (www.batterysalesusa.com) - but email them to ask the best price for your battery choice as they will sell cheaper than their website prices.

Their unit is only 2 miles (along one street) off the I-95 (9A), but you will need to disconnect the toad as you need to reverse out of their street a 100yrds or so (there is hardly any traffic there).

Paul
 

John From Detroit

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Posts
25,387
Location
Davison Michigan
UK-RV said:
Thanks John

Ann-Marie has been suggesting I need Professional Help for a long, long time.  ;D

Glad you liked my use of that phrase.  Of course for those who are impaired, "Professional Help" can mean many things,  The guy who fixes your car is a Professional, Your doctors, (All of them) the person who fits your shoes.  The waitress at the local eatery (And the cook). The man at the car wash.

All are paid, and thus all are professionals.  So "Professional Help" means you employ a repairman

But it sounds so much better when you say "Professional Help"

By the way. I've actually SPOKEN with Dr. Kevorkian (The Famous Dr. K of assisted suicide fame)

Yup, he called me back when my office phone number was 9-1-1
 

Smoky

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Posts
3,589
Location
wherever we are parked
Paul:

Wow that sounds like a good dealer you found for batteries.  Does anyone know a place like that in the Phoenix or Tucson area?

And thanks for starting this thread.  I learned a lot!
 

Ned

Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Feb 1, 2005
Posts
25,107
Location
USA
Try Copperstate Batteries in Phoenix.  I got my original Lifelines there after ordering through Arizona Wind and Sun in Flagstaff.  They installed the batteries at no charge and made a couple of needed cables for very little cost.
 

UK-RV

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2005
Posts
822
Location
UK
If it starts weeping again, then the TPR valve may be leaking.  They can get mineral deposits in them that keeps the valve from closing completely and the air head will leak out, followed by water.

Ned,

You were spot on - thanks

I spoke with Hector this morning and he showed me the mineral build-up on the valve he had removed/replaced.

Thanks
Paul
 

Ned

Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Feb 1, 2005
Posts
25,107
Location
USA
Paul,

Glad you got one item fixed, at least :)  The biggest problem with TPR valves is RVs use a smaller thread than a household valve, so they cost 3-4 times as much.
 
Joined
Mar 7, 2007
Posts
23
Location
USA
i'd be curious if you still have the valve. if submerging it in some CLR would remove the deposits and then re-install it...
after living in Florida for many years, we've learned to put showerheads, faucets and sink sprayers in CLR to remove the deposits and then put them back on. even pouring it in the drains to remove deposits that cause clogs...
 
Top Bottom