AC breakers keep popping

[just escape]

I am new to rving I have a mirage x Plus split AC heat pump unit it's running off of a dual 15 amp breaker with 2/15 amp fuses the breaker is popping after 5 to 10 minutes not sure if it needs a new breaker or increased fuse there are possibly a few lights two TVs and refrigerator running at the same time can't get much help from company without paying for a service call or hiring a electrician. I have not checked the internal filter system for the AC unit or refrigerator. The AC is running very cold and there are no noises coming from either unit any suggestions

 

[Domo]

Do not increase the fuse size.

What year/make/model RV do you have?

How far are you from your power source - do you have a long residential extension going to a plug in the wall or are you camping with a small generator?

Are you at a campground or plugged in at the friend's house?

I am confused by the dual 15 amp breaker that has 2/15 amp fuses? Breakers do not have fuses. Are the fuses you're talking about in the wiring of the heat pump? Can you take a picture?

Let's find out if it's one system/appliance/device that's tripping the dual 15 amp breaker.

First thing I'd do is shut off the fridge, TV and other things that are not needed - and then test with the heatpump ONLY. Let it run and run all day tomorrow when it has to work hard when it get's hot out.

Oh yeah, don't open the fridge - it'll probably stay cold all day during your testing. If you do go into the fridge and find it's warming up just eat the ice cream first.

 

[8Muddypaws]

If you only have 30Amps going in chances are that the two A/C units and the refrigerator alone are pretty close to using all of it.

Running the water heater on electric? Batteries being charged?

It all adds up.

Our coach has a display that shows exactly how many Amps are being used at any moment. That comes in handy.

 

[just escape]

Do not increase the fuse size.

What year/make/model RV do you have?

How far are you from your power source - do you have a long residential extension going to a plug in the wall or are you camping with a small generator?

Are you at a campground or plugged in at the friend's house?

I am confused by the dual 15 amp breaker that has 2/15 amp fuses? Breakers do not have fuses. Are the fuses you're talking about in the wiring of the heat pump? Can you take a picture?

Let's find out if it's one system/appliance/device that's tripping the dual 15 amp breaker.

First thing I'd do is shut off the fridge, TV and other things that are not needed - and then test with the heatpump ONLY. Let it run and run all day tomorrow when it has to work hard when it get's hot out.

Oh yeah, don't open the fridge - it'll probably stay cold all day during your testing. If you do go into the fridge and find it's warming up just eat the ice cream first.

1998 Chevy Damon Challenger about 15 ft away from the electrical pedestal has 100 amp breaker in it as the main but our electric lines probably 30 ft long in total length correct about the breaker it has 215 Post in one breaker and only one of them is Poppy someone else mentioned the refrigerator is being a issue why run the heat all day instead of the AC the heat is working fine and does not pop the breaker just the one post and the one breaker and only when the AC is running so far I'll try your suggestions tomorrow any other information is greatly appreciated thank you I will also try to get a picture of it but come to think of it it wasn't until I messed around with the refrigerator settings did the AC one of the single post breaker popped

 

[CharlesinGA]

If a 3 way fridge, you may have set it to DC instead of GAS, AUTO or AC.

Charles

 

[Kirk]

it's running off of a dual 15 amp breaker with 2/15 amp fuses the breaker is popping after 5 to 10 minutes not sure if it needs a new breaker or increased fuse

If you put in a bigger circuit breaker you will set things on fire instead of tripping the circuit breaker. It you are in an RV park and mess with the circuit breaker on the pedestal you will be liable for damages to the park as the breaker belongs to them and is there to protect the equipment that they own. The reason that the circuit breaker is tripping is that it is limited to no more than 15a and you are probably drawing at least 20a and at times more than that. The circuit breaker is doing exactly what it is supposed to do. The solution is for you to draw less power. The refrigerator when on electricity is probably drawing about 5A and changing it to propane will eliminate that load. Each TV set probably draws about 1 or 2a. The air conditioner will use about 12-15a and more when the compressor is starting. I'll bet the RV has a 30a power cord and that you are using an adapter like this one.

 

[Domo]

1998 Chevy Damon Challenger about 15 ft away from the electrical pedestal has 100 amp breaker in it as the main but our electric lines probably 30 ft long in total length correct about the breaker it has 215 Post in one breaker and only one of them is Poppy someone else mentioned the refrigerator is being a issue why run the heat all day instead of the AC the heat is working fine and does not pop the breaker just the one post and the one breaker and only when the AC is running so far I'll try your suggestions tomorrow any other information is greatly appreciated thank you I will also try to get a picture of it but come to think of it it wasn't until I messed around with the refrigerator settings did the AC one of the single post breaker popped

Your "heatpump" is also your A/C, isn't it? That's why I said to "Let it run and run all day tomorrow when it has to work hard when it get's hot out." Kinda hoping that would infer A/C not heat. (Yes, you probably also have a furnace - be we're ignoring that.)

Do you have an inverter/converter/charger in the MH? Are the circuit breakers that pop on the inverter output side?

If the A/C (with all else not running) works for a much, much longer time, THEN turn on the fridge with the A/C OFF. That way you'll know if it's a single device tripping the breakers. BTW Is this a residential fridge or one that can work on 12 VDC, propane or 120VAC? How are you running it? Propane, DC or AC?

I'll check back later.

Oh, yeah, in answer to one question - yes, circuit breakers can go bad - or they can loose connections that create resistance and increase current draw... Let's wait on jumping on changing the breaker if you're okay with the delay and progressive testing.

 

[John From Detroit]

You need to measure the amps drawn.. Then you can figure out where they are going.
Couple ways to do that. On a 30 amp Trailer a clamp on ammeter on the black wire to the MAIN 30 amp breaker will tell you lots.
else you need to meaure each line
one thing that concerns me is you said "I am new to rving I have a mirage x Plus split AC heat pump unit it's running off of a dual 15 amp breaker"
When you say "Dual Breaker is that two 15 amp breakers in a single package (half size) or i it two 15 amp breakers "Ganged" together so if one trips they both trip?
The second is normally a 240 volt setup.
The first is 120 volt.. RV's are generally all 120 volt.
An air conditioner will draw more amps if the condenser needs cleaning

A heat pump.. Same thing only on a heat pump the condenser and evaporator can "Swap"

 

[just escape]

1998 Chevy Damon Challenger about 15 ft away from the electrical pedestal has 100 amp breaker in it as the main but our electric lines probably 30 ft long in total length correct about the breaker it has 215 Post in one breaker and only one of them is Poppy someone else mentioned the refrigerator is being a issue why run the heat all day instead of the AC the heat is working fine and does not pop the breaker just the one post and the one breaker and only when the AC is running so far I'll try your suggestions tomorrow any other information is greatly appreciated thank you I will also try to get a picture of it but come to think of it it wasn't until I messed around with the refrigerator settings did the AC one of the single post breaker popped

Not sure if I told you we are in Tucson Arizona happens to be somewhat cool today and tomorrow and I can turn everything off run the heat at any particular temperature are we looking to see if the Left Post of the breaker pops the right post s loleems to be for the AC part if either post on the breaker does not pop will that tell us that the breakers bad or refrigerator needs to be repaired like I previously said I think nothing happened until I was turning the refrigerator on temperature wise to increase the coolness 1 I'm
Kk know he know

If a 3 way fridge, you may have set it to DC instead of GAS, AUTO or AC.

Charles

If I was to go to DC wouldn't that drain those batteries the whole time I was trying to cool the RV down or is that just to test to see what the problem is I'm really kind of in the dark and all this is new to me
thanks for the reply

If a 3 way fridge, you may have set it to DC instead of GAS, AUTO or AC.

Charles

Your "heatpump" is also your A/C, isn't it? That's why I said to "Let it run and run all day tomorrow when it has to work hard when it get's hot out." Kinda hoping that would infer A/C not heat. (Yes, you probably also have a furnace - be we're ignoring that.)

Do you have an inverter/converter/charger in the MH? Are the circuit breakers that pop on the inverter output side?

If the A/C (with all else not running) works for a much, much longer time, THEN turn on the fridge with the A/C OFF. That way you'll know if it's a single device tripping the breakers. BTW Is this a residential fridge or one that can work on 12 VDC, propane or 120VAC? How are you running it? Propane, DC or AC?

I'll check back later.

Oh, yeah, in answer to one question - yes, circuit breakers can go bad - or they can loose connections that create resistance and increase current draw... Let's wait on jumping on changing the breaker if you're okay with the delay and progressive testing.

Thank you for the response it was raining and cloudy most of the day and I had a doctor's appointment but yes the refrigerator runs on all three AC gas DC battery and I'm not really familiar with some of the things you're asking me I'll look into it and get back to you thank you for your help

 

[just escape]

You need to measure the amps drawn.. Then you can figure out where they are going.
Couple ways to do that. On a 30 amp Trailer a clamp on ammeter on the black wire to the MAIN 30 amp breaker will tell you lots.
else you need to meaure each line
one thing that concerns me is you said "I am new to rving I have a mirage x Plus split AC heat pump unit it's running off of a dual 15 amp breaker"
When you say "Dual Breaker is that two 15 amp breakers in a single package (half size) or i it two 15 amp breakers "Ganged" together so if one trips they both trip?
The second is normally a 240 volt setup.
The first is 120 volt.. RV's are generally all 120 volt.
An air conditioner will draw more amps if the condenser needs cleaning

A heat pump.. Same thing only on a heat pump the condenser and evaporator can "Swap"

Yes as far as the breaker it has two 15 amp Post in one breaker only the one on the right side of the breaker is popping when the AC is on yes it is a dual system heat and AC and I am 99% sure that it's a 120 volt system in the RV and yes probably the condenser unit which sits outside underneath the RV in the back storage probably needs to be cleaned also should I not check the refrigerator see if that needs to be cleaned and the inside split unit for the AC heat pump doesn't have a filter in it I really appreciate everybody's help and patience with me on this I can't get around much lately I broke a hip and just got out of surgery or I could get these questions answered a lot quicker I'm pretty sure it's an easy fix but I don't want to do something to cause more damage thank you again for all your help I'll look for your response

 

[just escape]

If you put in a bigger circuit breaker you will set things on fire instead of tripping the circuit breaker. It you are in an RV park and mess with the circuit breaker on the pedestal you will be liable for damages to the park as the breaker belongs to them and is there to protect the equipment that they own. The reason that the circuit breaker is tripping is that it is limited to no more than 15a and you are probably drawing at least 20a and at times more than that. The circuit breaker is doing exactly what it is supposed to do. The solution is for you to draw less power. The refrigerator when on electricity is probably drawing about 5A and changing it to propane will eliminate that load. Each TV set probably draws about 1 or 2a. The air conditioner will use about 12-15a and more when the compressor is starting. I'll bet the RV has a 30a power cord and that you are using an adapter like this one.

I was suggesting to put in a new breaker that may be the one that's in there is worn I'm not sure if it's a 30 amp or 50 amp draw from the pedestal when I got the RV the electrical cord that goes to the electric pedestal was already there it's a three prong that I plug into the pedestal and everything that you say makes 100% sense the existing power cord has a surge unit on it and the refrigerator is a 1998 but the AC heat pump is pretty new it came from Mexico I found out today again thanks for all the help unfortunately I do not have a manual for the AC heat pump unit or for some of the other things that are in the RV I'm learning as I go I rented a private spot to live in the RV until I get everything top notch to hit the road

 

[Ray-IN]

You can dowload free service manuals for each of your appliances here: Service Manuals - My RV Works

 

[CharlesinGA]

The breakers are commonly known as Tandem breakers, and are two separate, single pole breakers in one body. If that is what you are blowing, I would hope the A/C and the fridge 120v AC circuit are not on the same breaker. The fridge on AC will draw about 300-400 watts and this plus the air conditioner will most certainly overload the breaker. Put the fridge on GAS and see if it quits blowing the breaker.

Charles

 

[Arch Hoagland]

Have you measured the 120 volts inside the RV at an outlet?

 

[John From Detroit]

ReReading the initia bit about where you are and how it does not pop in the rain

For sure cleaning the condenser coils will help.. Will it fix it... Do not know you are right borderline for a 15 amp breaker

 

[Domo]

Do you have your hot water heater running off the 120 VAC? Or is it running off your propane. If on 120VAC - make sure to turn that off when you only have 15 amps.

With only 15 amps you MIGHT be able to run an A/C and TV and couple of lights. NOT an A/C (heat pump) and microwave/keurig/hot water heater/electric skillet/hair dryer.

And, if you have an inverter/charger it can consume a bunch of power if your coach batteries are low and it's trying to re-charge those as well as the other items that are on.

You know, the best test would be to move the MH to a 50 or 30 amp source and then see if there is still trouble.

Or, do you have a generator - if you do, try running off of it and see if you have the same issues with the breaker.

You could simply be powering too much with such a weak source causing voltage drops and current increase...

 

[John From Detroit]

Just some numbers... I had 3 different air conditioners Two 13.5's and two different 15 KBTU)
The 13.5 normally drew 13.5 amps.. So did the 1st 15K (But if the evap was dirty it would hit 21 and click went the 20 amp breaker) I think the 2nd 15K was 13.9 amps.

My converter could hit 10 amps all by it's lonesome
Water heater 12.5 originally
Fridge 3.5

 

[Onyrlef]

Just some numbers... I had 3 different air conditioners Two 13.5's and two different 15 KBTU)
The 13.5 normally drew 13.5 amps.. So did the 1st 15K (But if the evap was dirty it would hit 21 and click went the 20 amp breaker) I think the 2nd 15K was 13.9 amps.

My converter could hit 10 amps all by it's lonesome
Water heater 12.5 originally
Fridge 3.5

The 13.5 likely drew the 13.5 running, starting amps likely exceeded that but not likely in excess of 20A. Unless it had a soft start capacitor it won't likely run concurrent with any other high draw appliance and if not when it's kicking the compressor and another appliance is on that circuit even a 20A wiill likely trip. A 30 amp MoHo with a 15k a/c will typically trip a 30A breaker if the microwave is running when the compressor kicks ( unless it has a soft start type capacitor).

 

[John From Detroit]

The 13.5 likely drew the 13.5 running, starting amps likely exceeded that but not likely in excess of 20A. Unless it had a soft start capacitor it won't likely run concurrent with any other high draw appliance and if not when it's kicking the compressor and another appliance is on that circuit even a 20A wiill likely trip. A 30 amp MoHo with a 15k a/c will typically trip a 30A breaker if the microwave is running when the compressor kicks ( unless it has a soft start type capacitor).

Exacty I meant to say 13.5 amps RUNNING but alas.. Got distracted. You are correct they pull more starting... but the circuit breaker has a current/time thing it does. a 15 amp breaker will pass 20 amps or more for a BRIEF (Starting period) time

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Do you have your hot water heater running off the 120 VAC? Or is it running off your propane. If on 120VAC - make sure to turn that off when you only have 15 amps.

Highly doubtful that the water heater is on an inverter-supplied circuit. Or an a/c unit either. But fridge may be, and microwave, and entertainment gear. Plus anything plugged to a wall outlet, e.g. a space heater, computer, CPAP machine, etc.