Added grease fittings to dump valves on 42' Tour -- very smooth operation.

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rv rick

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We have three dump valves on the 42' Tour -- two grey tanks (60 gallons each) and the black tank -- also 60 gallons. I really like the large size of these holding tanks and they have worked well. However, after a few months of daily use, the valves start to get sticky and work with difficulty. Time to add grease fittings!

I originally got this idea from Mark Nemeth, Escapees' technical director and first used it on our previous  2008 Winnebago Tour. The modified dump valves worked great and I had no problems over 2 years of fulltime use, so I decided to do the same modification on our new coach.

You will need to get one 1/4" zerk grease fitting for each dump valve (I got mine at Lowe's), a 1/4" x 28 thread thread tap, 3/16" drill, and of course, a grease gun with grease. The zerk fittings are only a buck or so and the tap is just a few dollars, so this is a very inexpensive modification. I was able to install all three fittings in just a few minutes and the operation of the valves was immediately improved. See http://fulltime-rv.blogspot.com/2011/10/installing-grease-fittings-on-dump.html for pictures showing the procedure.
 

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Did you use any grease on the drill bit and tap to keep the plastic drillings from dropping inside the valve, or does it not make any difference?  I have to keep spraying mine with silicone every couple of weeks during constant usage so I really like your solution. 

Allen
 
Great idea, I will install the Zerks this year while in Florida.

How often do you grease??????
 
I greased the fittings only once in every 6 months or longer. After the initial installation and greasing, things worked so well, I have no problems.

As far as the tapping goes, I found that both the drilling and tapping caused plastic being removed to come out of the hole, so there was no problem with plastic dropping into the valve.

Another person asked if there was any reaction between the grease and the valve. Based on the two years I used this after installing in our old 2008 coach, I can say that there did not appear to be any issues at all.
 
Changed my mind and installed the Zerks today, it was a breeze.  I used Lithium base grease and filled the void (hope I didn't use to much).  I know that when I open the valve that grease has to be displaced, hope it goes toward the valve.

I had just replaced the Black Tank valve because of leakage around the pull shaft, I have to dump every three days due to the three of us and a macerator toilet so the Black tank valve got quite a workout.

I have an additional question, did you use any sealant on the Zerk threads to stop any leakage.  I did not and only tightened them moderately as I didn't want to break or strip the plastic.

Hope this works as replacing the valves is not a pleasent experience.
 
I did not need any sealant on the grease fittings, just tightened them until the shoulder of the fitting was seated on the plastic valve body. I never had any leaking in our 2008 coach for 2 years, nor on the current coach. I did find that I needed to work the valves a few times after putting the grease in before it loosened up. Then, it stayed nice and smooth from there on.

Best of luck!
 
I found if you put a couple of gallons of water in the tanks after you dump the valves stay lubricated by themselves and don't need greasing.  Ten years on my last trailer, 4 years (so far) on this motorhome.

The other benefit of starting with a water charge is it helps start the breakdown of solids in the black tank instead of just sitting on the floor of the tank drying out.  And if you use chemicals, they spread throughout the tank instead of just congregating in the outlet pipe.
 
After dumping, I always put 5 gallons of water, with some Dawn dishwash soap, into the black tank.  It keeps the tank (s) clean and the sensors free of debris.  I have been doing this for over 5 years and the tanks remain clean and the valves lubed.
The Zerk fittings seem like a great (and inexpensive) alternative to sticky valves.
 
Anyone have a view on a few ounces of Drain Valve Lubricant with a few gallons of water after dumping?  Is Dawn just as good?  Also, for those who have taken one of these valves apart, is it the shaft or the gate seals that start sticking?  Thanks.
 
Hi Ho:  Sounds like a pretty good idea.  The one drawback might be shortening the life of the rubber seal on the valve blade.  I assume that the grease eventually gets on the blade?  Some kinds of rubber don't like petroleum products and may work for a time but are weakened in the long run.  I wonder how the alcohol in the pink RV antifreeze affects the rubber.  This is one reason that I use ethylene glycol (the standard green stuff) instead of RV antifreeze.  I know that it is ok with rubber.  Also the pink stuff leaves a stain in the toilet bowl.

What do you guys think?

Dirk
 
dirko said:
Hi Ho:  Sounds like a pretty good idea.  The one drawback might be shortening the life of the rubber seal on the valve blade.  I assume that the grease eventually gets on the blade?  Some kinds of rubber don't like petroleum products and may work for a time but are weakened in the long run.  I wonder how the alcohol in the pink RV antifreeze affects the rubber.  This is one reason that I use ethylene glycol (the standard green stuff) instead of RV antifreeze.  I know that it is ok with rubber.  Also the pink stuff leaves a stain in the toilet bowl.

What do you guys think?

Dirk

I think the seals are Neoprene and not rubber. Grease will not affect Neoprene.

Richard
 

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