Advice 01 Ford V-10 crank but no start problem.27K miles

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Old Paint48

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Hi ,I'm hoping for any info that someone might have a similar experience and found the cause other than replacing a fuel Pump, And If so has anyone cut out a panel in floor over the top of fuel tank to access the pump instead of draining 50 gallons and dropping the tank. My RV is a 2001Ford class C, with 6.8lt V-10 27000 miles ,dealer serviced, always Ran perfectly most recent trips were Up and down many mountain passes in Oregon towing a car, never any indication of fuel starvation or misfire. I backed it down in front of garage to unpack and clean up, it sat for a few days there then I went out to move it away from the garage door so we can get our cars in and out but it would not start, Battery good all fuses and modules in engine compartment and under dash seem to be good, emergency fuel shutoff is still depressed, I replaced fuel filter. Seems like it wants to start with ether but wont continue while spraying.. no pressure on passenger side fuel rail, cant hear pump run, I put a test light on battery to test light then checked the coil on plug wire also the injector feed wire and got an indication of power but it was very faint and orange as opposed to the bright white from Battery, I'm guessing they don't get Full power???I bought an online manual from Chilton and I found it useless to me. ....hoping its something electrical .any advice appreciated thank you ,Old Paint48
 

DonTom

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no pressure on passenger side fuel rail, cant hear pump run,
How did you determine that? What about the psi on the opposite side rail?

But I would say you have a bad fuel pump, but 27K miles seems low to have that issue. Fuel PSI on the V10 is measured on a scan tool, has no ports to check, IIRC. Should be an ECM reading of 38-41 psi.

I am not sure how safe this is, but on a 1999 Ford Mustang V6, I had a stuck fuel pump after the car was not used for months. I got a 12V supply and disconnected and reversed the polarity to the pump wires for a couple of seconds. It worked! Car ran perfectly after that, at least wile I was using it at least once per week or so.

But after I let the car sit again for more than a month unused, the same thing happened and then I junked that car.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 

Old Paint48

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How did you determine that? What about the psi on the opposite side rail?

But I would say you have a bad fuel pump, but 27K miles seems low to have that issue. Fuel PSI on the V10 is measured on a scan tool, has no ports to check, IIRC. Should be an ECM reading of 38-41 psi.

I am not sure how safe this is, but on a 1999 Ford Mustang V6, I had a stuck fuel pump after the car was not used for months. I got a 12V supply and disconnected and reversed the polarity to the pump wires for a couple of seconds. It worked! Car ran perfectly after that, at least wile I was using it at least once per week or so.

But after I let the car sit again for more than a month unused, the same thing happened and then I junked that car.

-Don- Auburn, CA
Thanks Don, on the passenger side fuel rail there is a Schrader valve like on a tire ,I depressed the pin and had no air or fuel come out , If there is one on the drivers ide rail I didnt find it. I have been thinking fuel pump also but was hoping and praying that its not .. its so crazy that there is not an access panel from the inside floor to the fuel pump. was thinking of making one but it seems to be right over the corner of my shower. Thank you Don for Your input. DJ
 

Old Paint48

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Thanks Don, on the passenger side fuel rail there is a Schrader valve like on a tire ,I depressed the pin and had no air or fuel come out , If there is one on the drivers ide rail I didnt find it. I have been thinking fuel pump also but was hoping and praying that its not .. its so crazy that there is not an access panel from the inside floor to the fuel pump. was thinking of making one but it seems to be right over the corner of my shower. Thank you Don for Your input. DJ
 

DonTom

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Thanks Don, on the passenger side fuel rail there is a Schrader valve like on a tire ,I depressed the pin and had no air or fuel come out ,
There's normally only one fuel rail, AFAIK, but I don't know about the V-10.

But I do know you need a fuel pressure gauge if you have the valve. Turn on the ignition and check the pressure on the gauge.

BTW, my fuel pump crapped out last year. I knew instantly as I installed a permanent fuel gauge in my old RV many years ago.

-Don- Reno, NV
 

Kirk

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Before you assume it is the fuel pump, make sure as the one time I had that type of problem with our V-10 the reason for the lack of fuel pressure was that a rat had chewed the wires to the fuel pump in an areas above the tank but near the front of the tank. Making a hole through the floor of our RV might have allowed access to replace the pump but that would not have resolved the problem. The only way to be sure is to drop the fuel tank. (My 75 gallon tank was nearly full when it happened to me.)
 

Old Paint48

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Salt Lake city,Utah
Thanks Kirk, Im looking for just that kind of stuff. but Im getting discouraged the more that Ive talked to people, Good Sam Roadside emergency tech Told me to Check everything that I unready had and his conclusion was the same as most, the fuel pump. I still am not convinced but winter is coming and I have to get it moved.I can sympathize with you having to remove the tank, did they clean it out also? As for Dons suggestion about using a pressure gauge, I had bought one from Harbor freight and was disappointed that it didn't have the Schrader valve connector that would depress the pin,was going to buy the Noid lights to check injector wires,a 12 volt test light showed it was getting some power however it wasnt as bright as a direct contact to battery
 

DonTom

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I had bought one from Harbor freight and was disappointed that it didn't have the Schrader valve connector that would depress the pin,
Was it similar the kit I linked to? That just doesn't sound right, that a Ford connector would not be in there.

Are you sure it is not the same size as the gauge cable itself and a connector isn't necessary?

-Don- Reno, NV
 

Old Paint48

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Salt Lake city,Utah
Thanks Kirk, Im looking for just that kind of stuff. but Im getting discouraged the more that Ive talked to people, Good Sam Roadside emergency tech Told me to Check everything that I unready had and his conclusion was the same as most, the fuel pump. I still am not convinced but winter is coming and I have to get it moved.I can sympathize with you having to remove the tank, did they clean it out also? As for Dons suggestion about using a pressure gauge, I had bought one from Harbor freight and was disappointed that it didn't have the Schrader valve connector that would depress the pin,was going to buy the Noid lights to check injector wires,a 12 volt test light showed it was getting some power however it wasnt as bright as a direct contact to battery
 

Old Paint48

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Posts
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Salt Lake city,Utah
Was it similar the kit I linked to? That just doesn't sound right, that a Ford connector would not be in there.

Are you sure it is not the same size as the gauge cable itself and a connector isn't necessary?

-Don- Reno, NV
It was just a small rubber hose that pushed onto the end of the gauge, the other end had was just the hose, the kit had various rubber and some brass fittings but nothing that would have depressed the valve I suppose I could have unscrewed the pin and pushed the hose into the valve stem, but I already new it was not holding any pressure DJ
 

Old Paint48

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Salt Lake city,Utah
It was just a small rubber hose that pushed onto the end of the gauge, the other end had was just the hose, the kit had various rubber and some brass fittings but nothing that would have depressed the valve I suppose I could have unscrewed the pin and pushed the hose into the valve stem, but I already new it was not holding any pressure DJ
 

Old Paint48

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Salt Lake city,Utah
Is this what your fuel rail looks like?

I see what you mean about two rails. But you're measuring the total pressure on both from that one valve, but I don't see it. I only see the inlet for the fuel.

Where is that Schrader valve located?

-Don-
IT does not look familiar, I would have to look again, I would have thought both banks would have them but when I did look on the left bank I didn't see it, could have been obscured by so many wires and hoses, however after I found no pressure in the right side, I didn't think it was necessary to continue. DJ
 

Old Paint48

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IT does not look familiar, I would have to look again, I would have thought both banks would have them but when I did look on the left bank I didn't see it, could have been obscured by so many wires and hoses, however after I found no pressure in the right side, I didn't think it was necessary to continue. DJ
 

DonTom

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I would have thought both banks would have them
No need. The fuel psi will be the same on both. If you have no psi on the right you will have none on the left. The fuel psi will be the same everywhere in the two rails since they are connected together with that rubber hose.

BTW, did you check the fuel pressure regulator and vacuum hose to it for any obvious problems?



-Don- Reno, NV
 

Old Paint48

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Salt Lake city,Utah
No need. The fuel psi will be the same on both. If you have no psi on the right you will have none on the left. The fuel psi will be the same everywhere in the two rails since they are connected together with that rubber hose.

BTW, did you check the fuel pressure regulator and vacuum hose to it for any obvious problems?



-Don- Reno, NV
Hi Don, I was going to pull that regulator but I am thinking it may be an electrical problem, I removed the inertia switch and checked for power with a 12 volt test light with key on and had a faint red glow, also I checked the connector to the fuel pump, same thing. also at the injector connection, and plug coil, all a faint red glow, I dont know If it should have a full 12 volt input or not, I thought the coils were super energized ,as I stated in previous posts I had replaced all fuses pertinent to the starting system and checked all for continuities .On some Utube videos I have seen people finding a crack or a loose solder connection in the circuit board. Im hoping that is not my case.O.P48
 
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Old Paint48

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Location
Salt Lake city,Utah
Hi Don, I was going to pull that regulator but I am thinking it may be an electrical problem, I removed the inertia switch and checked for power with a 12 volt test light with key on and had a faint red glow, also I checked the connector to the fuel pump, same thing. also at the injector connection, and plug coil, all a faint red glow, I dont know If it should have a full 12 volt input or not, I thought the coils were super energized ,as I stated in previous posts I had replaced all fuses pertinent to the starting system and checked all for continuities .On some Utube videos I have seen people finding a crack or a loose solder connection in the circuit board. Im hoping that is not my case.O.P48
 

DonTom

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I removed the inertia switch and checked for power with a 12 volt test light with key on and had a faint red glow,

While I would expect your fuel pump to need close to 12VDC across its wires in normal operation, I really don't know.

What is your engine starting battery voltage?

You probably want to keep a charger on your engine battery while you're doing your testing and have your battery voltage at around 13.5VDC or so as you test things for having the correct voltages as you would in normal operation.

And you said your battery is okay. The cranking speed is normal? But what is the voltage on it? And the voltage while you crank?

Anyway, try to start it with a well charged battery and see what happens.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
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