Advice needed on min/max weight/length for towing in crosswinds & mountains

bfryusa

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Aug 5, 2015
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I need some advice in choosing the size and weight of a travel trailer to purchase for retirement vacationing (2 people).  We expect to travel about 4x annually for 2 - 3 weeks at a time, all over the USA and Canada. 

Our tow vehicle is a 2013 Dodge RAM 1500 pickup truck with 5.7L hemi-V8, 6 speed transmission, 3.92 axle, crew-cab, and 5?7? box.  I?m not sure of the towing capacity, but I think it is approximately 9,600 ? 9800 lbs.
 
To give you some idea of my towing experience: behind gasoline-powered GMC and Dodge dump-trucks (dual rear wheels, 8 ton payload), I towed a low-boy, 6-wheel equipment trailer with medium-grade paving equipment (medium-to-larger Michigan end-loader, 4 ton Buffalo-Springfield blacktop roller, Case backhoe, Huber maintainer, or (Huber?) road-grader) on board at my summer job in the Washington, D.C. area from 1966 ? 1971.  Often the dump truck was empty when pulling the loaded equipment trailer, but sometimes the dump truck was also loaded with 8 tons of blacktop or crushed rock in the dump box.  That was at/near the towing/hauling capacity limit and it certainly taxed my towing skills on some of those narrow, crowned, uneven Maryland blacktops.  I also drove a 1,200 gallon asphalt truck.  I occasionally towed a 26 ft Airstream trailer behind a 1966 Dodge Polara station wagon during those years.  The Airstream towing was in the Blue Ridge mountains.  I finally drove a semi-truck, but only briefly. 

Later, after moving to Illinois, Arizona, Kansas, California, and Nebraska (in that order), for recreational activity I towed a Nimrod pop-up tent camper behind a ?68 Impala, which was actually sometimes a ?challenge? going downhill on vacation in the western mountains, given that the Impala had only a 2-speed ?power-glide? transmission (no 2nd gear ? just ?hi? and ?low?) and the smallest size V8 of the time.  I was often confined to maximum 30 mph on a steep downhill grade, owing to lack of a 2nd gear.  I know I irritated many drivers behind me (for going so slow), but what else can you do to avoid overheating brakes on a steep downhill grade with no 2nd gear available? (Answer: Go 30 mph in low gear, make everyone angry behind you, and pull over at each turn-out to let them pass.) 

I also occasionally pulled the largest size of U-Haul furniture trailer behind that Impala (possibly an ill-advised overload condition), and have driven the largest size of U-Haul moving truck (fully loaded including household furniture, a grand piano and heavy floor-model Bridgeport milling machine) back and forth across the mountains and the country on several occasions. 

I know mountain driving - no mishaps have ever been encountered.  In Kansas, I upgraded my towing vehicle to a ?76 Pontiac station wagon (large V8 and 3 speed transmission), and with adding a 2nd gear and more vehicle weight, that was much better with the tent camper vacationing in the western mountains.  Locally (in Kansas - flat country), I also towed two different 17 foot deep-vee runabout boats (4.3L V6 I/O) behind that Pontiac, and that was OK.  In California, I towed a 16 ft aluminum fishing boat behind an ?85 Olds Delta 88.  That was also easy.  Later yet (after moving to Nebraska), I again towed an 18 ft deep-vee runabout boat (4.3L V6 I/O boat engine) behind a ?99 Tahoe.  (I initially tried towing that boat behind a ?93 Jeep Cherokee Sport without trailer brakes or anti-sway bars and soon discovered my mistake (even on flat ground) ? which led me to buy the ?99 Tahoe).  The Jeep was (officially) ?rated? for the tow, but in my book, it didn?t have anywhere near the ?ballast? or braking power to handle that boat comfortably.  The old ?76 Pontiac station wagon was much better than the Jeep.  The ?99 Tahoe was better yet.

Now we have the above-described 2013 Dodge RAM 1500 and are looking to buy a travel trailer for our retirement.  I realize the RAM 1500 is generally too light for a 5th wheel trailer, and so I am looking at travel trailers.  I need some advice on the size and weight of travel trailer to choose.  My wife and I would like something that is reasonably roomy inside and gives us more evening & bad weather sitting options than just a small dinette set.  We?d also like a bedroom door that prevents one late night insomniac reader (or TV watcher) from keeping the other one up at night. 

We don?t want to overload the tow vehicle, and we are also concerned about crosswinds on I-80 in Wyoming.  We?ve also encountered some nasty crosswinds in past travel across Utah.  We survived the crosswinds (without incident), but our tent camper was short and ?low profile?.  These are the places we?d like to visit.  Mountain interstate roads and east-west interstate roads with north crosswinds will likely be encountered. 

Our current tow vehicle is certainly more substantial than that ?68 Impala or the various vehicles that followed later, but I am still worried about what crosswind difficulty will be encountered with a taller hard-top travel trailer, especially if it is too long and/or possibly too lite in weight.  We never towed our boats in these Utah/Wyoming crosswinds.  (The boats were used only locally in Kansas and Nebraska, and we didn?t go boating when it was windy.)  It is only our prospective new travel trailer that will encounter significant Utah/Wyoming cross winds.
 
From the weight standpoint (and ignoring crosswind (for the moment)), my ?93 Jeep boat-pulling experience in Nebraska taught me not to pull a trailer which encroaches on the rated towing capacity of the vehicle.  (Though I realize my Jeep experience was made worse by the lack of trailer brakes ? even driving in flat country at only 55 mph.) 

I?d like to keep the new travel trailer at 7000 lb or less (dry weight).  That should be OK with this RAM 1500.  In fact, in consideration of fuel mileage and crossing the various western mountains, we?d really prefer to keep the travel trailer at 5500 lb or less (dry).  I?m willing to invest in a premium load-leveling hitch with premium anti-sway control.
 
However, MY QUESTION IS:  if we choose a fiber-glass ultra-lite (e.g. Apex, by Coachmen (Forest River)), which weighs only 4370 lb (dry) at 28 feet long (including tongue) or a longer model of the same ultra-lite, weighing in at only 5300 lb (dry) at 31 feet long, are we going to get into unmanageable cross-wind problems in Colorado, Wyoming, and Utah?
 
I?m particularly worried that in choosing such long, ultra-lite fiber-glass trailers, they may be exceptionally susceptible to western crosswind difficulty.  Perhaps being too ?lite? (for the length) is a problem with crosswinds?  There are other brands/models of trailers of the same length and similar price that would weigh 1200 lb more at 28 feet long, and 1700 lb more at 31 feet long.
 
In other words: is reducing the weight by 1200 lb to 1700 lb, via selecting a fiber-glass ultra-lite, really a good idea in a 28 ft to 31 ft trailer, or would extra weight be PREFERRED for western states crosswinds ? given my towing experience and the RAM 1500 truck that we currently have?

We really like the ultra-light travel trailer concept of reducing the weight by 1200 to 1700 lb (via light-weight fiber-glass construction) behind this RAM 1500, but will that put us into unmanageable western states cross-wind difficulty? 

(We know to stay off the road when severe crosswind advisories are in effect, but there are still a few ?surprises? waiting out there, even with no advisory in effect.)

I have towing experience (including mountain and crosswind experience), but NOT with the particular combination of extra-long, tall, ultra-lite trailers that we are currently considering.  What can I expect in Utah & Wyoming with a RAM 1500 truck, a premium load-leveling hitch, premium anti-sway control, and a 28 to 31 foot travel trailer with only 4370 ? 5300 lb dry weight? 

Possibly, I should make sure the 50 gallon water tank is always full?  Or maybe we should buy a shorter trailer, or possibly a heavier one at the same length?  What is your opinion?
 
Forget dry weight and use the trailer GVWR.  I would stick to a trailer with a GVWR about 80%-85% of the truck's max tow rating. Use a top quality WD type hitch and make sure the trailer tongue weight is moderately high, up around 11-12% for best towing manners.

That amount of weight is going to keep the trailer under 30 feet, but if you are concerned about crosswinds, smaller is better. That's both lower height and shorter length, to reduce the sail area as much as possible.
 
Our tow vehicle is a 2013 Dodge RAM 1500 pickup truck with 5.7L hemi-V8, 6 speed transmission, 3.92 axle, crew-cab, and 5?7? box.  I?m not sure of the towing capacity, but I think it is approximately 9,600 ? 9800 lbs.

You thinking is sound.

I own roughly the same set up (truck) ...but with air bags. I don't think I would go over a 25~27 TT weighing 7K... the longer, taller your rig, the more prone you are to crosswinds. I have done the white knuckle thing with a 25 foot hybrid. Not fun. The engines today will haul just about anything..it is the handling / stopping that should be of concern.

Do yourself a favour, move to 8 ply tires...it made a huge difference.

Floor plan is important ..especially to the DW.

Grassy
 
To Gary RV Roamer:  Thanks Gary, the trailer GVWR of the 28 ft. Apex Ultralite (Coachmen) is 7000 lb which is 71% to 73% of the max truck towing capacity.  I assume that's OK, since it's below the 80% - 85% range you quoted.  I assume less weight than 80 - 85% is OK.  Is that right?  What does WD stand for?  (Is it weight distribution?)  You mentioned tongue weight should be 11 - 12%, but what number am I taking 11 - 12% of? 

The Apex Ultralite hitch weight is listed as 480 lb.  That's 11% of 4364 lb, but what should that 4364 lb represent?  Is it dry weight?  If so, then the Apex Ultralite dry weight is 4370 lb and 4364 lb would then fit your 11% spec.  However, if the 11% is computed on some other weight (other than dry weight) then the 480 lb hitch weight might be a bit on the lightweight side.  Does that create a Wyoming I-80 crosswind issue?

I cannot tell whether the brochure hitch weight of 480 lb includes 50 gallons of water in the tanks, propane, food, supplies, etc., or not.  The brochure just says 480 lb.  I'm assuming that's "dry" & 'empty".  I also don't know where the water tanks are, relative to the trailer wheels and tongue, so I can't estimate how much water weight would affect the hitch weight.

OK, I can at least see that you think the trailer should be less than 30 feet.  I can live with that.  The 28 ft. Apex Ultralite would fit that spec.  I can eliminate the 31 ft. Apex from consideration.  At 7600 GVWR, the 31 ft Apex it would have passed your 80% GVWR spec., though.  (It's a fiber-glass ultra-lite, which is about 1700 lb lighter than conventional wood/aluminum construction.)  It's hitch weight is listed at 620 lb. 

Actually, if I'm reading you right, either the 28 ft or the 31 ft Apex would pass all of your specs., except the one about staying under 30 ft in length.  Even the 31 ft. length includes the tongue.  The box (sail cross section) would be about 3 feet shorter than that.

Except for being 1 ft. over your 30 ft. spec., in every other respect, it sounds like either trailer would work.  But as you suggest, I'm thinking of the shorter one, which is 28 feet long (including the tongue - which makes the "sail" box only about 25 feet long).  I think you've convinced me that the shorter 28 foot trailer is the better buy, so I'll probably go with that.

What about that 480 lb hitch weight?  Is that going to be too light for "good behavior"?  I suppose I could look into carrying some extra bottled water in 5 gallon jugs to add ballast near the front of the trailer for towing, if you think 480 lb hitch weight is too light for optimal towing.  Water is 8 lb/gallon, so a 5 gallon jug would weigh 40 lb.  I'm wondering how many 5 gallon jugs would be needed.  (4 of them would add nominally 160 lb (minus a reduction for the lever arm since they aren't directly over the hitch), but only if they were placed as close to the front of the trailer as possible. 

I really need to hear what calculation basis your 11% hitch weight includes, so I can determine if the brochure's 480 lb spec. is too light weight.

As I said before, I'll happily buy the best quality hitch and anti-sway control.

Thanks for your comments.
 
To Grassy:  Thanks for your response.  Are you saying my truck doesn't have air bags?  I assumed all vehicles today must have air bags?

OK, regarding the trailer, you suggest limiting to a 25 - 27 TT.  But is that the box length or the length including the tongue.  For example, one of the Apex Ultralite (Coachmen) travel trailers I'm looking at is 28 ft (including the tongue), with a 25 ft. box.  It weighs 7000 lb GVWR.  That sounds like it would fit your maximum spec.

Sounds like both you and Gary RV Roamer would prefer that I stick with the 28 ft. Ultralite trailer, rather than the 31 foot model.  You've convinced me!  Thank you!

Ummm, . . .regarding floor plan - what does your DW reference stand for.  (Is it "Dear Wife"?  In that case, you'd be 100% correct!)

Thanks again - I believe I'll order the 28 ft model.  It's box is only 25 ft long and its GVWR is 7000 lb.  Thanks for your advice!
 
Grassy:  I forgot to ask what you meant by 8 ply tires.  Do you mean on the trailer or on the truck?
 
bfryusa,

Sorry...I should try to be clearer. 

To help my rear suspension out, I installed air bags. When everything was loaded, I would lever the rig by adding air to the bags... On my first RAM, I added air via nipples installed on the bumper. On my second, I installed a pump under the rear seat so I could change pressure from inside the cab..

Our box length was 25 foot.  Yes, DW is dear wife :) 

Tire ply (and size) isn't a topic that is talked a lot about....except for 16 inch trailer tires.  With your trailer, you will probably have 14 or 15 inch tires. So, keep them at the pressure that is stated, watch your speed..ST tires have a max speed rating of 65 and after5 years..regardless of tread depth, replace them.  Give them a quick inspection before each trip.

I had a load bearing hitch for my hybrid but I took it off since it didn't seem to do any good...maybe because of the air bags. I did have (and use) a sway bar attached to the truck / trailer. I live where it isn't calm all the time and I still had problems with sway.  The trailer dealer did all sorts of tests...making sure the trailer axles were aligned, adding weight to the tongue but it was my garage mechanic to suggested tire ply. Most 1/2 tons come with 4 ply tires....so they flex or roll more from side to side. (my analysis may suck here..I need a tire expert)  He had a RAM with 8 ply so we attached my rig to his truck and voila..no sway.. so I replaced mine ..the ride was a bit harsher but sway went down considerably...and I became a much calmer driver :)
 
Will the dealer let you take either rig out for a bit of a run ?  In a wind ?
 
To Gary RV Roamer:  Thanks Gary, the trailer GVWR of the 28 ft. Apex Ultralite (Coachmen) is 7000 lb which is 71% to 73% of the max truck towing capacity.  I assume that's OK, since it's below the 80% - 85% range you quoted.  I assume less weight than 80 - 85% is OK.  Is that right?  What does WD stand for?  (Is it weight distribution?)  You mentioned tongue weight should be 11 - 12%, but what number am I taking 11 - 12% of?

The Apex Ultralite hitch weight is listed as 480 lb.  That's 11% of 4364 lb, but what should that 4364 lb represent?  Is it dry weight?  If so, then the Apex Ultralite dry weight is 4370 lb and 4364 lb would then fit your 11% spec.  However, if the 11% is computed on some other weight (other than dry weight) then the 480 lb hitch weight might be a bit on the lightweight side.  Does that create a Wyoming I-80 crosswind issue

Yes - less than 80% is better than 80-85%.

WD = Weight Distributing, a hitch that mechanically shifts some of the tongue weight forward to the truck front axle instead of all on the rear.

The hitch (tongue) weight shown in the brochures is for the trailer as delivered from the factory, i.e. dry weight. It is meaningless once the trailer gets anything added to it, e.g. the water heater filled or some gear onboard. You can forget the brochure specs for dry weight and dry tongue weight.

The tongue weight of a travel trailer needs to be at least 10% of the actual trailer weight. 11% or 12% will give more directional stability, i.e. the trailer will tend to follow the hitch ball direction better. Less tongue weight increases the tendency of the trailer to sway, while more tongue weight decreases that tendency. To make the trailer more stable in crosswinds or on winding roads, increase the tongue weight. I suggested 11% as a compromise, but you could go to 12% or even a bit higher if you wanted. It's a continuum, not a black & white difference.

For planning purposes (estimating truck loading or buying a WD hitch), you can assume a tongue weight of 10-11% of the trailer GVWR. Once you get the trailer and load it for travel, get it weighed on a scale and determine both actual trailer weight and actual tongue weight. Then adjust the load positioning in the trailer to get the actual tongue weight where you want it, as a percentage of the actual trailer weight.
 
To Grassy:  I'll look into a road-test with the dealer.  He doesn't keep the 28 foot ultra-lite (25 foot box) in stock because it is pricier than the heavier trailers, but he might be able to organize a test with a heavier trailer.  I'm guessing it would be about 1200 lb heavier.  I suppose the empty "heavy" trailer could approximately simulate the behavior of a loaded ultra-lite, but 1200 lb extra is probably more load than we'd carry in the ultra-lite.  I'll ask the dealer if he can organize that.
 
To both Gary RV Roamer and Grassy:

Thanks gentlemen for your excellent information and helpful advice.  It has already steered our choice in a better direction and will undoubtedly keep us safer in future.

Thanks again.  bfryusa

p.s. I'm a climate scientist, engineer, and inventor.  If you're even remotely curious about how climate restoration and polar ice stabilization can realistically proceed on a HIGH IMPACT basis (e.g. keeping Florida above water), see www.climaterestore.com
 

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