Advice on buying a used Class C

[Nimbletoes]

Hello

My wife and I are planning on buying a used Class C motorhome next summer to take our 4 kids on National Parks trips. We want to buy used, and since I am not mechanically inclined, I don't know what to look for when browsing. We are trying to keep our budget under 20,000 dollars, and have found a couple that we really like in that range, but we are still nervous. Obviously the last thing we want is to get hooked into buying a polished lemon. For example, here is one that I found that I really like : 1994 Winnebago

But it seems too good to be true! What advice can you all give my family and I so we can make a sound and informed decision instead of throwing money away?

 

[Nimbletoes]

Hello

My wife and I are planning on buying a used Class C motorhome next summer to take our 4 kids on National Parks trips. We want to buy used, and since I am not mechanically inclined, I don't know what to look for when browsing. We are trying to keep our budget under 20,000 dollars, and have found a couple that we really like in that range, but we are still nervous. Obviously the last thing we want is to get hooked into buying a polished lemon. For example, here is one that I found that I really like : 1994 Winnebago

But it seems too good to be true! What advice can you all give my family and I so we can make a sound and informed decision instead of throwing money away?

I also want to mention that I have heard people stay away from megabrands like Jayco, Fores River, etc. but which brands are considered megabrands, and why should I avoid them?

 

[Kirk]

We want to buy used, and since I am not mechanically inclined, I don't know what to look for when browsing.

The best way to know what you are buying is to contact one of the certified pre-purchase RV inspectors to go over it before you make any purchase. Before you spend the money to have it inspected you would be wise to find someone that you know with RV experience to help you narrow things down.

For example, here is one that I found that I really like : 1994 Winnebago

Since your link does not work I have know knowledge of the RV you are looking at but, keep in mind that it is now 30 years old and so it will probably need significant repairs to be reliable. It likely also needs 6 new tires as RV tires should be replaced every 7-10 years, regardless of the wear. At that age it probably should have all rubber hoses and belts replaced, if they have not been previously. It has probably had several previous owners so knowing much of the history is unlikely. To give much opinion I would need to have much more information.

But it seems too good to be true!

In my experience, when something sees too good to be true, it very seldom is true. It might be that rare find but the odds are not good.

I have heard people stay away from megabrands like Jayco, Fores River, etc. but which brands are considered megabrands, and why should I avoid them?

I'm not sure of where you get your advice, but if you ignore all of the major brands you will have very little to consider. Jayco is owned by Thor RV as one of the 15 US companies that they own, plus some in several other countries. Tiffin RV is one of the highest regarded RV brands and is now owned by Thor since 2020. Forest River, owned by Berkshire Hathaway Inc has 8 motorhome brands. Winnebago also owns Newmar and those are also both highly regarded brands.

With a budget of $20k you are going to be shopping for RVs that are typically 20 years old or more. With any RV that old the most important part is the condition. Many, if not most of the brands in that price range were made when the brand was owned and built by someone other than the current company. To restrict yourself to only a few brand names will eliminate the majority of RVs. I just looked at RV Trader for Michigan and it only lists a few in your budget range and several of those are by Jayco.

 

[Isaac-1]

The link did not work for me either, but I absolutely would tell anyone not mechanically inclined and most who are NOT to buy a 1994 motorhome, first chances are there are many mechanical parts that are worn out / aged out on it, secondly most modern mechanics have no idea how to work on anything that does not have an OBD-II diagnostic port which was first available in 1995, and not fully mandated on gas motorhomes until I think 1999.

As a rule of thumb I would tell you to avoid ANYTHING built before the year 2000 on either a Ford, Chevy / Workhorse chassis.

The second thing I would tell you is if you are looking at coaches over 10 years old, strongly consider a shorter Class A coach with either an Aluminum or Fiberglass Roof (EPDM rubber roofs on most class C's and some cheaper class A's tend to be near end of life after 10-12 years). Class C coaches are built on either 13,500 - 14,500 GVWR chassis, where shorter Class A's ones built post 2000 can be as short as 26 ft, and will typically be built on 16,000 -21,000 GVWR chassis in coaches less than 32 ft long. This means they tend to have beefier construction, as well as larger tanks, and more cargo carrying capacity. Class A's have more useful floor space as the driver and passenger seats tend to swivel around to be part of the living area, and the hood area is shorter so less wasted space at the front. They also tend to be a few inches wider and taller than Class C's which really makes a difference in interior space.

Granted you will tend to find more sleeping positions in a Class C, though there are also plenty of Class A's built in the last 20 years that can sleep 2 adults plus 4 kids of various sizes, some of which even have a retracting loft bed above the drivers area.

Here is the big thing to remember, RV just about everything in an RV is prone to start wearing out at around the 12-15 year point, this includes all the appliances (except maybe the stove), rubber suspension parts, shocks, suspension bushings, rubber hoses, belts, etc.) RV tires age out at 7 years regardless how good the tread looks as the chance for catastrophic blowouts go WAY up every year after the 7 year mark, and you can't tell from looking at the tires as they rot from the inside out.

 

[weighit]

Hate to change the subject, but maybe buying a decent pickup/larger used SUV and a well cared for travel trailer might get you into that budget and have the space your looking for to house a family. Some of the older higher end trailers were as well built as they were and still easy to repair should things need replacing.

 

[Bearcatrp]

Stripit hit the nail on the head. 20 thousand isn’t enough for a decent drivable RV. What kind of vehicle do you have now? How many kids? This will help help you. Have any friends that have campers? Bring them with you to help inspect any rv you decide to get. Another thing. If you buy a drivable RV, you will want to tow a car (TOAD). Otherwise, you have to unhook everything to go to the store or exploring the area you’re visiting. That’s 2 engines to maintain. Get a TT to tow behind, just need that one vehicle.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I'm not quite as pessimistic as most of the replies but it's true that buying a 25-30 year old has a lot of risks and even moreso for a newbie who is not mechanically inclined. Plus you plan to rely on it for nationwide travel with your family. You are quite right to be nervous.

You will be buying both a medium duty truck and a fully furnished home with its own built-in water, electric &sewer system. Lots of things that could have problems, either initially or as you travel. Inspecting before you buy is a crucial step, but there are still going to be problems as you travel. Be aware that any kind of service on an RV is highly likely to be prolonged and ultra-expensive. Dealer shops typically have lengthy waiting lists and labor rates run $150-$200 per hour, so even minor repairs are long and expensive.

So with all those negatives stated, there are some well-kept older coaches around if you hunt them down. RV sales ads are notorious for skipping over blemishes and mechanical defects, so avoid getting over-excited by lovely photos and glowing descriptions. The truth is often much different. You are going to have to visit many and get probably disappointed often, but if you persevere you can find something. The good news is that relatively low mileage RVs aren't all that rare. Many only get driven 2000-5000 miles/year, so mechanical wear may be low. However maintenance on such vehicles may well have been neglected, and age still hurts.

Once you locate one that looks sound and useful for your needs, hire a professional RV inspector to go over it before you commit to buy it.

I took a quick look on rvtrader.com and saw several in your budget range that look clean. The reality may be different but it's worth a look. For example:

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2003-Fleetwood-JAMBOREE+GT+31L-5031827187

 

[Kirk]

Once you locate one that looks sound and useful for your needs, hire a professional RV inspector to go over it before you commit to buy it.

The most important thing.

 

[garyb1st]

Sometimes a polished motorhome is not a lemon but a reflection on a well cared for motorhome.

What I'd look for is one being sold by a senior who is quitting RVing. We've bought two that way. Drove them a combined 70,000 miles, and have no regrets. Whatever you do, make sure the unit comes with lots of records. I'm talking about every thing from routine maintenance to major work. Also, the longer the seller has owned the motorhome the better.

I'd stay away of any unit that was purchased used and then put back on the market after only a year or two.

We bought our first Class A from a man who was quitting RVing. He was a total DIY type guy and did all the maintenance himself. For $22,000 we got a 12 year old 1999 Class A motorhome and every piece of RVing stuff he owned. That even included his tow vehicle, a 2006 Chevy HHR. We had the motorhome for 5 mostly troubled free years. Most expensive repair, about $700. was for the replacement of the black tank.

Deals are out there but it will take some time and effort to find an oldie but goodie.

 

[Nimbletoes]

I really appreciate all the advice! It has been extremely helpful. One more question: should I look at private sellers, dealers, or both? Does one offer something the other does not, or should I expect an insane markup from a dealer?

 

[Professor David]

Generally, private seller is probably the best way to go. I like Gary's idea of buying from a senior who is retiring from the road. Take your time. There are good used rigs out there.

 

[Kodiak34SS]

I really appreciate all the advice! It has been extremely helpful. One more question: should I look at private sellers, dealers, or both? Does one offer something the other does not, or should I expect an insane markup from a dealer?

Dealers are great for allowing you to poke around a wide variety of rigs. Doesn't mean you have to buy from them, but you can get a good sense of condition, models, and other information.

Condition is everything with older rigs.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

Have you factored operating budget? Even if you find a unicorn $20K RV that doesn't need $10K in updates and repairs (if it didn't need them, it wouldn't be $20K...) consider that all RV's run on money, especially if you farm out any work. It's a bit of a reality check coming from the automobile world where all you do is routine oil changes and go 100K miles before you need a new set of plugs or attention of any kind. RV's are trucks, which have different systems than cars and pickups that generally require greater attention and have bigger and costlier components. Compounding the not mechanically inclined aspect of RV upkeep is just finding a place that will even work on it. Then if you do find a place, especially with house issues, there are many stories of owners waiting months for even basic service. Just planting the seed that you can start out with the idea you'll just get someone else to do maintenance and repairs, but generally the more you do yourself not only will be more economical but you build some self reliance for when things break, or worse yet, break on the road and help isn't timely. Even a simple failure could result in a lengthy detour or even nixing a trip, so the less reliant you are on others, the better your chances of successful trip completions. Count me among the more pessimistic responses of the thread but it's based on life with a 20 year old RV. They're anything but "sign and drive".

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Don't limit your search to either private or dealer - you are looking for the perfect one for your needs. Neither category is universally good or bad. I've seen over-priced and badly neglected rigs in both genres.

 

[garyb1st]

It's possible a dealer will have the best RV you can find. But in my experience, their need to sell exceeds their need to be honest and far too often the salesman just doesn't know what he or she is talking about.

Unfortunately the onus is on you. If you're knowledgable in mechanical and familiar with the many house systems an RV has, then you're way ahead of the curve and should be able to find a decent RV.

 

[JudyJB]

Ditto on operating expenses. My motorhome is a 2012, but with a LOT of miles. I also am not mechanically adept, and have been spending several thousands of $$ for each of the past several years on repairs. Here are a few of my expenses just from 2024:

• Someone hit my passenger's side mirror as I was stopped to make a left turn. Cost of replacement was $350 and had to be ordered from Cleveland. I managed to put new one in myself.
• Refrigerator door fell off because of broken hinge. Problem is hinge was plastic and part of door, so I had to replace the entire door--cost of door was $364, plus $50 to get camp host to help me install it.
• Radiator was leaking badly. Cost to get new radiator and have it installed was $650.
• Had to get new wheel bearings in both front wheels. Total cost was about $1,300.
• Toilet was leaking so had to replace it. Cost of toilet was $213 and installation was $149.
• Right now, my water heater is leaking. Factory service replaced a hose for$200, cost of hose and labor. This really did not completely solve the problem as it still occasionally leaks, so eventually i will need to replace it. Cost of new water heater is about $350 and more for a couple of hours of labor.
• I will need an oil change soon. Oil changes on my v10 cost about $200.

And you would not believe how much I spent on new spark plugs, new shocks, new brakes, and a bunch of house things in 2023!!!

I don't want to disappoint or discourage you, but motorhomes are money pits, no matter how old they are, and you are looking at ones that certainly are going to have problems soon, even if there are not major issues right now. Besides the purchase price, you will need to put aside money for repairs.

Most of us buy RVs, not because they are cheap way to travel, but because we like the luxury of taking our own beds with us so we don't have to stay in hotels with potentials of bedbugs and dirty bathroom. Ditto for taking our own food with us instead of having to eat in restaurants all the time, and not having to pack and unpack all the time. I love traveling this way, but I know there are going to be costs I did not plan on.

If you already have a pickup truck, you might consider a smaller trailer instead of a motorhome. There will still be things to fix, but you can always ditch the trailer if it becomes a money pit.

 

[Kirk]

One more question: should I look at private sellers, dealers, or both? Does one offer something the other does not, or should I expect an insane markup from a dealer?

In my experience, the private seller is more likely to be much higher than book value because he prices it based more on what he considers it to be worth, than on any books. But the greatest bargains can also be from a private seller because he wants to sell and ignores the book values. On the other hand, a dealer is most likely to be priced near book value because they tend to use the books to determine the trade-in value. But they also have professionals to manipulate both the buyers and the numbers they show you and are far more likely to take advantage of an inexperienced buyer. I have bought from both and there is risk in either one. If at all possible, get some assistance from someone with experience and get any used RV professionally inspected before you buy it. If the seller, whether dealer or private, refuses to allow it to be professionally inspected, that is a pretty good hint that you should not buy it.