Air Pressure Reducer - Winterizing

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Joined
Sep 27, 2006
Posts
6
Location
Boise, Idaho
I have a '05 Monaco Cayman.  It has an air pressure connection in the driver's side bay.  The manual says I can pump RV antifreeze into the lines to winterize or I can blow out the lines with compressed air.  Blowing out the lines seems simpler. 

The problem is the air connection is rated 120 to 130 psi and the manual says to only use 40 psi to blow out the water lines.  Can I get a air pressure reducer like the water pressure reducer valves?

Is blowing out the water lines as good as using the RV antifreeze?

 

John From Detroit

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Posts
25,114
Location
Davison Michigan
I have two air compressors, one  battery operated portable and one 120volt portable, both come with air pressure regulators

if you go to www.harborfreight.com  and type the word "Regulator"
in the keyword box you will get a bunch of them.

I'd avoid the lowest priced unit or two, but anything out of the basement should work just fine
 

Riverdog

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Posts
175
Location
Spokane Valley, WA
I blow out the lines AFTER I have drawn in a gallon of RV antifreeze.  This clears the lines & ensures that the traps only have RV antifreeze and no water in them.  Be sure to blow the antifreeze through all sinks, etc to make sure all traps are flushed.
 

JIGGS

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Posts
255
Location
new castle pa.
I can only speak from my experience. Last winter i blow out my lines. After a couple cold days i chickened out and decided to put antifreeze in. Now let it be said that i have an older HM. I found that i had a line that was freezing up. If you have a line that has a dip in it. That can be very hard to get all the water out especially if you have  long runs with water lines.Example a 27' is easier to clean out the lines than a 40' HM.  I have talked to people who has done it for years with no problems. I will stick to antifreeze. This is only my opinion.
P.S. - Have I said thank you for the spell check. I think because I have found out . I can't spell for.........................
 

King

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2006
Posts
354
Location
MA
The first winter I had a local RV shop winterize my class B.  I watched and learned.  He just drained the tank and the water heater, disconnected the pump input and pumped antifreeze through the lines.  then he added antifreeze to the tank and the traps.  Since then I do it myself.  I drain the tank and the heater, then blow out the lines (my compressor has a regulator). Then I turn the water heater bypass valve.  Then disconnect the hose at the tank and pump antifreeze through the faucets and the toilet.  Then I add antifreeze to the tank and the traps.  It's like wearing a belt and suspenders.  I figure it's a lot easier and cheaper than tying to find and repair some split hose or fitting.
Art
 

joelmyer

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Posts
1,058
Location
Georgia
I winterized last winter using the blowout method in my Sunnybrooks manual.  No pain, no strain, no problem.  Takes two people.

First I drained the water heater & left the drain plug out.  Blew air in 'til no water came out.

Put water heater plug in, open shoe faucets. Blew air in 'til no water came out.

Onward to the sink & kitchen sink.

I think the secret is to always have something open - then you don't build up pressure.
 
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