Am I Missing a Breaker or Fuse Before Replacing My Converter? (2021 Keystone Fuzion 419)

[Leeirminger]

Hey everyone,


I’ve been troubleshooting my electrical system on my 2021 Keystone Fuzion 419, and I could use some input before I pull the trigger on a new converter.





The situation:

• My converter is a Progressive Dynamics 90 A model with the Charge Wizard and a lithium/lead-acid switch.
• Shore power works fine — all AC systems run normally (fridge, outlets, etc.), but my 12 V side isn’t charging the batteries.
• The batteries sit around 12.2 V on shore power, and the converter fans don’t come on.
• There’s 120 V AC input at the converter breaker, but no DC output from the converter’s positive/negative lugs.
• The Charge Wizard LED is solid green, not flashing.
• I’ve checked the following:
  • All reverse-polarity fuses (4 total) — all good, 12 V present.
  • All visible inline auto-reset breakers behind the batteries — also showing 12 V.
  • Battery disconnect switch — functional.
  • Main breaker and all fuses in the panel — no faults.
  • BCM for In-Command — no errors.

The backstory:


This started right after our propane furnace ran out of fuel while it was operating — there was a clicking sound and a hot electrical smell. The generator kicked on later that day because the battery voltage dropped. Since then, the converter hasn’t charged properly.





What I’m wondering:


Before I replace the converter with a direct PD4590CSV swap, could I be missing any hidden fuse, inline breaker, or resettable link between the breaker box and converter? Has anyone found an additional DC fuse or relay tucked behind panels or in the pass-through on their Fuzion that caused similar symptoms?





Any insight would be hugely appreciated before I pull this converter out and order a replacement.





Thanks in advance!

 

[Kirk]

First, I am quite sure that the furnace plays no part in the charging problem. The constant green light on a charge wizard indicates that the charger is in normal mode, which is when the battery is between 50% and 90% charged. In this mode, the charger is providing a steady trickle of power to maintain the battery's charge without overcharging. This mode is designed to prolong the battery's lifespan by preventing overcharging and ensuring the battery remains at optimal voltage levels. A voltage reading of 12.2V would be low if the batteries were fully charged or nearly so. A fully charged wet cell battery should read about 13.6V and when being charged the voltage would normally exceed 14V. I suggest that you lift the negative cable from the battery and then measure first between the battery terminals to see what the battery is at, then with that cable off, measure between the positive post and the lifted negative cable to see what it reads, as that will tell you the maximum voltage the converter can put out. Have you kept the batteries serviced regularly and the electrolyte at proper levels? Low electrolyte will reduce battery capacity. You should probably take the batteries to a place that sells batteries and ask to have them load tested. An OEM battery is typically late in life in 3 or 4 years.

 

[Larry N.]

A fully charged wet cell battery should read about 13.6V

I rarely disagree with you Kirk, but maybe 13.6 while it is being trickle-charged, but not at rest- more like 12.6V unless I'm misinformed. At least I've never seen it that high...

 

[CharlesinGA]

I agree with Kirk, Check the batteries individually first. If you then don't find anything, yes, it points to the converter. The converter will put out good voltage, meaning 13.2 or better, with the batteries disconnected.

The current production deck mount converter is the PD 9300 series. The PD 9100 series is obsolete and should not be considered. The PD9200 series is made in 45, 60,70,80 Amp models, but is only for lead acid and AGM which leaves the possibility of Lithium closed.

PD converters

The PD9300 series converters are currently made as the.............
PD9330 30 amp
PD9345 45 amp
PD9360 60 amp
PD9380 80 amp

Charles

 

[Domo]

Here is the troubleshooting procedure from Progressive. - Click here -

Please make use you are using a meter, cleaning contacts by removing fuse and squirting some contact cleaner (such as CRC contact cleaner and lubricant), etc.

 

[16ACE27]

my 12 V side isn’t charging the batteries.

no DC output from the converter’s positive/negative lugs.

I'm not sure how you are measuring the converter output. You should have at least the house battery voltage at the converter output IF you have continuity between the converter output and the house battery bank.

Have you disconnected from SP and verified continuity between the converter positive side and the battery positive cable (with the positive lead lifter)? This would prove/dispel the supposition of an open fuse/breaker in line that you are not aware of.

 

[Kirk]

I rarely disagree with you Kirk, but maybe 13.6 while it is being trickle-charged,

The post indicates that the Charge Wizard has a steady green light, indication that it is in the charge mode.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I rarely disagree with you Kirk, but maybe 13.6 while it is being trickle-charged, but not at rest- more like 12.6V unless I'm misinformed. At least I've never seen it that high...

In casual conversations like this, we need to be cautious about the term "at rest". A battery is never truly "at rest" when connected to a powered charger (converter). Most chargers will cut back to a minimal charge state (called float charge) but are still applying 13.3-13.6v. Have to disconnect from charger or at least turn the charger fully off to halt that. And even then it takes some hours for the battery to get to the true "at rest" state (this can be expedited by briefly applying a small load). In other words, the battery voltage doesn't instantly change from 13.6 to 12.6. Only then will a fully-charged lead-acid battery show the 12.6v of "at rest".

Those who have a good knowledge of lead-acid battery chemistry know all this, but that detailed knowledge is relatively rare among RVers.

 

[John From Detroit]

Do lights work only possibly dimmer without shore power.

Sounds to me like disconnect is disconnected, Possible main fuse on batteries oe breaker failed.

possible bad wire but not very possible.

IZZf no lights w/o shore power I would use automotive charger on batteries (Connect to them) unplug and use an automotive test light. Move out along the path start with clip to battery negative tip to positive bright good dark reset lamp in tester and retry then move clip to bare metal frame point bright good dark try different "ground" point, no bright bad ground lead/connection Bright
Move out along the positive path if you come to an "Inline: device test both terminals if it has large and small just the large.

-----device---- is an inline

problem between bright and dark (Or Dim)

 

[Larry N.]

Good points Gary and Kirk.

 

[Kirk]

Leeirminger, have you anything new to report? An update?

 

[Leeirminger]

Hi there thank you for all the feedback — family life and work has kept me busy the last couple days.

I purchased a 15 amp trickle charger from Home Depot and it has been sustaining our batteries at 13.x-14.x through DC use inside the RV.

When I have a moment and no toddlers scrambling around me I’ll step through a few of these recommended tests. Thank you!!

 

[John From Detroit]

Do lights work only possibly dimmer without shore power.

Sounds to me like disconnect is disconnected, Possible main fuse on batteries oe breaker failed.

possible bad wire but not very possible.

IZZf no lights w/o shore power I would use automotive charger on batteries (Connect to them) unplug and use an automotive test light. Move out along the path start with clip to battery negative tip to positive bright good dark reset lamp in tester and retry then move clip to bare metal frame point bright good dark try different "ground" point, no bright bad ground lead/connection Bright
Move out along the positive path if you come to an "Inline: device test both terminals if it has large and small just the large.

-----device---- is an inline

problem between bright and dark (Or Dim)

I'm not sure how you are measuring the converter output. You should have at least the house battery voltage at the converter output IF you have continuity between the converter output and the house battery bank.

There are two factors when it comes to measuring converter out and depending on the converter can be an issue...

VOLTAGE.. Fire it up turn on some lights and lift the NEGATIVE cable off the battery.. Measure voltage (Cables) 13.6 to 14.6 is good. less than 13 not good.

Current: Now that's a bit tricker. .I have a clamp on DC ammeter but usually one uses an inline meter and inline meters that can handle 30-100 amps...... RARE. and expensive.

If you have a battery monitor system (Forget the name.. Victron: With a shunt... That can do it and in fact is a very very very good add-on.)

Shows if charging or discharging, how fast and Voltage or state of charge.

 

[Leeirminger]

I followed the progressive dynamics troubleshooting steps from their website and the converter tested as bad. By removing the reverse polarity fuses they have you test without backfeed from the batteries. There was no dc output from the converter but full ac input. Bad converter.

Replaced the converter with the same model.

There was a dead mouse in the old converter. It had gotten fried just under the fuse on the control board between the control board and the metal bracket frame.

That must have happened not long before the furnace ran out of propane because our batteries would’ve depleted earlier. Strange near coincidence. I really appreciate everyone jumping in on this.

The 15 trickle charger from Walmart saved the day on our trip.

I’m curious if I can fix the old converter and have it has a back up

 

[Lou Schneider]

I followed the progressive dynamics troubleshooting steps from their website and the converter tested as bad. By removing the reverse polarity fuses they have you test without backfeed from the batteries. There was no dc output from the converter but full ac input. Bad converter.

Replaced the converter with the same model.

There was a dead mouse in the old converter. It had gotten fried just under the fuse on the control board between the control board and the metal bracket frame.

That must have happened not long before the furnace ran out of propane because our batteries would’ve depleted earlier. Strange near coincidence. I really appreciate everyone jumping in on this.

The 15 trickle charger from Walmart saved the day on our trip.

I’m curious if I can fix the old converter and have it has a back up

Test the 2 amp fuse on the circuit board, replace it if it blew when the mouse shorted things out. Does the converter produce voltage now that the mouse has been removed? Plug it in and find out. If it works, get a spray can of electronics contact cleaner and use it to flush out the rest of the mouse residue and dirt and you're good to go.

 

[Leeirminger]

Doesn’t look like I’ll get anywhere with repairs. The mouse exploded and blew a hole in the board. I have a feeling the mouse got in while I had the RV at a repair shop.

 

[John From Detroit]

If the mouse blew a hole in the board it is not looking good.. But if there were not traces there. not impossible... Often it's just the internal fuse popped (if there is one) But with a holey board there is little hope of that.

You might give PD a call. They sell and ship Factory Refurbs. Might be cheaper than new

progressivedyn.com