Anyone heard of « Heritage » trailer? Seeking to renovate

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Dream-me

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I did quite a bit of study and research and I am very sure that the emblem on the front of your trailer is from Carriage RV which went out of business in 2012 and also that the one that you have may be a bit older than 1978. I did find a picture of a 1978 from the rear and note the similarity of tail lights to the one on the front of yours.
hqdefault.jpg

The only Heritage that I can find today is Heritage Glen by Forest River, a company that came into existence in 1996.

I very much agree with the others that what you have is a trailer that has been fastened into a fixed structure and that will never be a travel trailer again. You need to also check to see what the construction codes are in the county the property is in and if you need construction permits and inspections. This sounds like it will be quite a learning process.

Electric heat uses a lot of electricity. Quite likely yours is still supplied by the RV power cord and if that is the case you will be limited to a maximum of 30a for everything. A single electric heater on high will usually draw about 12a by it's self. A microwave will require about 8a or so. An electric cook stove can draw as much as 30a and usually needs 240V which you probably do not have. You need to have someone who knows basic electricity principles help you do any electrical work for reasons of safety.
Hi Kirk,

It took me a while to respond because I did some more research about this type of trailer. How can you tell that it is a carriage RV because the photos I posted don’t have tail lights, do they?
I also found Heritage Glen by Forest River but like you said they are nowhere near that time. The daughter of the owner who passed away said they acquired the land in 1977 so maybe you are right and they did get the trailer in 1977 and not 1978 even though they had to wait a bit for the site to get ready. I wish I knew something about this Heritage, even see a picture of how it looked before. I find it so interesting to delve into these trailer histories!

As far as electricity goes, I do not know what amperage but I posted a photo of the meter on the site responding to Mark’s comment on my post. Each site has a separate meter and I will need to pay an electric bill to the utility. I do have a friend who is a licensed electrician so I could invite him camping and he might accept to take a look at it :)

As far as permitting I don’t plan on changing any of the mechanicals, just painting, floors and installing a basic kitchen (cabinet lower and upper, plug in burner maybe, sink without moving the plumbing and fridge). So not sure I would require a building permit for that. However, you are right, for the sale a fire Marshall has to come in and inspect as New Jersey or county law (not sure which law).

Thanks again for doing the research!
 

Mark_K5LXP

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OK, so there's a meter on a pole so it would be interesting to see if the connection inside those boxes are flexible conduit or if that's a 30 or 50A pigtail plugged in there. No visible cable on the ground and it's a fair piece to the trailer from the pole, so chances are it's cabling inside buried conduit. Which is fine, then the next question would be what the service is there (120/240), then how that service enters the trailer, if it's the stock trailer breaker box/panel or if it's refitted with something different. Not good or bad, just "is" and will drive what path you'd take to install something like a residential range or maybe an A/C unit. Your electrician friend will be able to quickly review and report what you have going on there.

An "electric burner" would easily be powered by a basic trailer AC supply, just when you get into ovens/ranges the power (both voltage and current) needed may exceed the stock trailer wiring capacity. Another data point is that a gas range can check the cooking box pretty easily, even a small/portable propane tank can run a stove for a long time. A new or used RV stove/oven would be sized for the trailer and is made for the purpose, so just an option to think about.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 

Dream-me

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OK, so there's a meter on a pole so it would be interesting to see if the connection inside those boxes are flexible conduit or if that's a 30 or 50A pigtail plugged in there. No visible cable on the ground and it's a fair piece to the trailer from the pole, so chances are it's cabling inside buried conduit. Which is fine, then the next question would be what the service is there (120/240), then how that service enters the trailer, if it's the stock trailer breaker box/panel or if it's refitted with something different. Not good or bad, just "is" and will drive what path you'd take to install something like a residential range or maybe an A/C unit. Your electrician friend will be able to quickly review and report what you have going on there.

An "electric burner" would easily be powered by a basic trailer AC supply, just when you get into ovens/ranges the power (both voltage and current) needed may exceed the stock trailer wiring capacity. Another data point is that a gas range can check the cooking box pretty easily, even a small/portable propane tank can run a stove for a long time. A new or used RV stove/oven would be sized for the trailer and is made for the purpose, so just an option to think about.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Mark,

I called the property owner association and the lady at the front desk who is like me and knows nothing about electric says she believes there is 50MB installed but that an electrician can bring it up to whatever is needed. It is scaleable.

Also, she confirmed what someone posted earlier on this thread (it might have been you), that you don’t need any permits to renovate your trailer. You only need a county permit if you install something on the land, a deck, a shed, etc. But I guess the trailer is not considered fixed property so can pretty much do any alterations you wish to it, which is awesome! I am so happy I found that out, thanks to all who raised the question 💪🏼👏🏻🏅
 

Dream-me

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Mark,

I called the property owner association and the lady at the front desk who is like me and knows nothing about electric says she believes there is 50MB installed but that an electrician can bring it up to whatever is needed. It is scaleable.

Also, she confirmed what someone posted earlier on this thread (it might have been you), that you don’t need any permits to renovate your trailer. You only need a county permit if you install something on the land, a deck, a shed, etc. But I guess the trailer is not considered fixed property so can pretty much do any alterations you wish to it, which is awesome! I am so happy I found that out, thanks to all who raised the question 💪🏼👏🏻🏅
*50 amp installed. Sorry for the typo.
 

Dream-me

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Hi Rob&Deryl,
I am an hour and a half away. So that was the only picture I have. The condo front desk person said I should ask the owner about what electric is in place but the daughter of the owner does not know because her father was a contractor and probably did the work himself and he passed away two years ago. Thanks for the suggestion. I wouldn’t even know how to take a photo of what you are suggesting but I do have a friend who is a licensed electrician who might help me out maybe.
 

Kirk

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How can you tell that it is a carriage RV because the photos I posted don’t have tail lights, do they?
The tail lights are not what tells me it was by Carriage. As I said in my first reply, the emblem next to Heritage in your picture is the trademark of the Carriage RV company in it's early days. carriage.jpg
I posted a photo of the meter on the site responding to Mark’s comment on my post.
The meter has nothing to do with the maximum amount of current that you can draw as long is it is under 200A or so. What determines that is the size of the power cord and the distribution panel and circuit breakers inside. If you still have the original cord and distribution you will be limited to 30A. That is the reason that it has been suggested that you post pictures of what is there. Again, since you do not know electricity, you could be making a big mistake in doing electrical changes. Get yourself someone to help who does know basic electricity. In my 40 years of electrical service work I have seen several fires resulting from amateur electrical work and know of at least 1 death. Mis-wired electrical systems are dangerous. Properly wired systems are your friend.
 

Dream-me

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The tail lights are not what tells me it was by Carriage. As I said in my first reply, the emblem next to Heritage in your picture is the trademark of the Carriage RV company in it's early days. View attachment 151134

The meter has nothing to do with the maximum amount of current that you can draw as long is it is under 200A or so. What determines that is the size of the power cord and the distribution panel and circuit breakers inside. If you still have the original cord and distribution you will be limited to 30A. That is the reason that it has been suggested that you post pictures of what is there. Again, since you do not know electricity, you could be making a big mistake in doing electrical changes. Get yourself someone to help who does know basic electricity. In my 40 years of electrical service work I have seen several fires resulting from amateur electrical work and know of at least 1 death. Mis-wired electrical systems are dangerous. Properly wired systems are your friend.
Kirk,

What an eye for detail you have! I will check out Carriage, thank you!

No worries, I am not touching any wires for my life! I have a friend who is a licensed electrician in New York and we are camping buddies so I am hoping I can invite him over or just send him the photos of the cables you mentioned and he will let me know.

Truly appreciate your concern and your expertise. God bless you for your kindness!
 

Rob&Deryl

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Hi Rob&Deryl,
I am an hour and a half away. So that was the only picture I have. The condo front desk person said I should ask the owner about what electric is in place but the daughter of the owner does not know because her father was a contractor and probably did the work himself and he passed away two years ago. Thanks for the suggestion. I wouldn’t even know how to take a photo of what you are suggesting but I do have a friend who is a licensed electrician who might help me out maybe.
Open the fuse/circuit breaker door, snap a picture. We will all learn a bunch.
 

Dream-me

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Hi Rob&Deryl,

The next time I go up there, which is probably in the next few weeks, I will try to follow your instructions and share the photos. I am happy that this park model/trailer/mobile home/Frankenstein will be a source of learning for all!
 

Ex-Calif

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I am with Mark on the cooking. Considering this place is going to be a get away type place You could install an RV oven/cooktop gas range and supply it with portable propane. An RV type unit would allow an oven as well.

Not sure I would upgrade the electrical to 220V just for a cooker.

If the PO was as handy as it seems I am betting the unit is supplied with 120C 100amp but your next trip will suss that out. As other's said you need to shoot some pics of the electrical panel on the unit to confirm, especially the main breaker.
 

Dream-me

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I am with Mark on the cooking. Considering this place is going to be a get away type place You could install an RV oven/cooktop gas range and supply it with portable propane. An RV type unit would allow an oven as well.

Not sure I would upgrade the electrical to 220V just for a cooker.

If the PO was as handy as it seems I am betting the unit is supplied with 120C 100amp but your next trip will suss that out. As other's said you need to shoot some pics of the electrical panel on the unit to confirm, especially the main breaker.
Thanks Ex-Calif for “cooking” up a response regarding propane ovens!

My issue with propane is that I heard it creates humidity within the trailer and the east coast region gets humid even though it gets cold, plus trailers unlike stick build housing that “breathes” tends to trap humidity. A lot of the trailers I visited have like a musty odor maybe even some mold?

So I wanted to prevent that by using electric heat and/or a small wood stove heat because it creates dry heat.

Will certainly take a shot of the electric panel when I get there as it seems to be keeping everyone in suspense!

Have a beautiful day! ❄️🌞🕶
 

Ex-Calif

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Thanks Ex-Calif for “cooking” up a response regarding propane ovens!

My issue with propane is that I heard it creates humidity within the trailer and the east coast region gets humid even though it gets cold, plus trailers unlike stick build housing that “breathes” tends to trap humidity. A lot of the trailers I visited have like a musty odor maybe even some mold?
I think the humidity thing is a misnomer. Tons of RVs have propane stoves and heaters. The humidity tends to come primarily from human breathing in a combined space and showers.
 

Dream-me

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I think the humidity thing is a misnomer. Tons of RVs have propane stoves and heaters. The humidity tends to come primarily from human breathing in a combined space and showers.
I hear you Ex-Calif, thanks for that clarification.

To prevent humidity, this makes me think - it is important to have open windows and an electric air circulator/vent in the bathroom to present water vapor from the shower from going into the entire RV.
- as far as breathing, I haven’t found a solution yet, deep inhale and slow quick exhale 🤣
 

Kirk

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I have a friend who is a licensed electrician in New York and we are camping buddies so I am hoping I can invite him over
Just tell him that there are steaks and beer once the work is done! :) Shoot, if you have that I might come if it's not too far!
My issue with propane is that I heard it creates humidity within the trailer and the east coast region gets humid even though it gets cold, plus trailers unlike stick build housing that “breathes” tends to trap humidity
The moisture from propane heat is only true if you have an unvented propane heater. If you use the RV furnace or any other model that uses outside air for combustion and then exhausts outside there will be no added moisture inside. Where the moisture issue is valid is if you get one of those open fireplace type of propane heaters or one of the catalytic propane heaters that are not vented. Those are safe enough but do contribute moisture. I have used both.
 

Dream-me

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Just tell him that there are steaks and beer once the work is done! :) Shoot, if you have that I might come if it's not too far!

The moisture from propane heat is only true if you have an unvented propane heater. If you use the RV furnace or any other model that uses outside air for combustion and then exhausts outside there will be no added moisture inside. Where the moisture issue is valid is if you get one of those open fireplace type of propane heaters or one of the catalytic propane heaters that are not vented. Those are safe enough but do contribute moisture. I have used both.
Good morning Kirk,

Your joke made me laugh and it is a good thing in these uncertain times so thank you for that! And thanks for the explanation about the RV heater. I do not know what type of heater is im there but I will check once I get there in a few weeks.
 

Kirk

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I do not know what type of heater is im there
It quite likely is the original RV furnace so I'll give you a few things to help to identify it. There are 2 brands of RV furnace that were in common use back in those days. Atwood & Suburban. The Suburban will be nearly all inside, probably in a cabinet with a small opening on an outside wall for both combustion air intake and exhaust exit. The Atwood should have a larger part on the outside that looks something like this.
atwood-20000.jpg

Suburban.
attachment.php
 

Dream-me

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It quite likely is the original RV furnace so I'll give you a few things to help to identify it. There are 2 brands of RV furnace that were in common use back in those days. Atwood & Suburban. The Suburban will be nearly all inside, probably in a cabinet with a small opening on an outside wall for both combustion air intake and exhaust exit. The Atwood should have a larger part on the outside that looks something like this.
atwood-20000.jpg

Suburban.
attachment.php
 

Dream-me

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Hello Kirk and everyone.
Giving you an update.
I was supposed to go and visit this week but it snowed up there so the roads are not cleared and icy. Which means I will try to visit this Sunday or next week.
The water heater I was told is brand new and cost them $700 and they are leaving it in the trailer. That was a nice surprise!
I will take shots of the electric panel if I can find it and if there isn’t too much snow. And maybe as I will be doing the walk through I will take photos of anything that seems a little obscure to me and maybe through this great forum, you can shed some light into!

Hope you are all staying warm and safe!
 
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