ARP Fridge controller - Standard, Remote, or Data Interface Model?

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blw2

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Please help me to decide which one to get.

Ok, so I caught wind of this thing in another thread here over the weekend.  Since then, i have read through many of the old threads here.... which there were many.  I'm sold that it will help me sleep a little easier.
But I'm unsure of which to get.
On the site, they have listed a
1) standard unit, which looks to have a short lead to the controller
2) a remote control unit - designed to mount the controller inside for easier viewing.  This is what I want, but I'm guessing I could just use the standard and add some wire... but at $10 more I would just buy the remote version to save a trip to the hardware.  The reason I'm convinced I at least want the controller inside is that I opted to go cheap on my PI electrical monitor and I am constantly having to open the electrical compartment to view it.... don't want to make that mistake again!
3) then there's the data collection unit.  I'm an engineer and I like to look at data by nature, but I'm not so sure if it's worth the money and added distraction.

FYI my fridge is a Norcold N611RT
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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I have mine mounted inside, just below the fridge because I want to be able to see if the it is working normally or has shut down the fridge (light blinking or steady). And once in awhile i push the button to read the current temp. Just me - most people never do this and consider the device a fail-safe that needs no attention. I'm a tech type, so like to be able to see it in operation. But then, I also have the data collection package too.  8)

The original ARP came with just the long wires that permit a remote install, but almost nobody wanted to do that, so they made the extra length harness an option.
 

Ned

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I do as Gary does, mostly ignore the display.  I do have the data cable but haven't used it since the original testing after installation.
 

blw2

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OK, so lets say the controller is outside.  Would I need to go out there and turn it back on after taking my coach out of storage mode (batteries off and power shut down)..... or is the "on switch" always on even if the power dies?

I should have written... I'm thinking of placing it inside the cabinet above the fridge, thinking so that I could see it but also turn the unit on when I turn the fridge on......
but now that I'm thinking about your posts, I'm guessing it would always be on and with the controller outside it would be less likely to be turned off by somebody accidently bumping it in the coach.  Correct?
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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The ARP stays on as long as 12v power is available to it. If you shut off the 12v for storage, I think you would have to turn the ARP back on again. You should address that question direct to the ARP people (Paul Unmack) is the answer is important to you. You can contact him via his web site.
 

HueyPilotVN

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Paul installed mine in a parking lot at Quartsite last winter.  I never look at it.  I just consider it as inexpensive insurance against overheating and causing a fire.  I have been intending to post an endorsement for his product.  Since I never look at it. I obivously got the standard model.
 

blw2

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I reached out, and here was the response from Paul

"The ARP control is designed for your situation, once the power to the control is completely turned off, when power resumes, the ARP will automatically turned on."

So, I just ordered the standard version.  I have a feeleing at some point the engineer in me will kick myself for not optiing for the data collection..... but that's for another day.
 

blw2

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So I ordered the standard and installed it yesterday in the outside compartment.  Norcold N611

After reading the many threads here on this conroller, Will make me feel like I'm doing everything I can to save my fridge and reduce chances of fire or other problems.  My motor home is only a few months old, but it had been operated while on the road and a couple times slightly off level since I've had it.....but hopefully I'm catching it early enough to save it from damage.

Anyway, install went fairly well, but was suprised that I needed to make a lot of terminal connections and make up a couple jumpers.  There was a rain storm breathing down my neck, so I was was rushing.  Should have put it away and waitied for another day but since I store my coach away form the house I can't get to it easily any old time....  Anyway, he has put together some good documentation for install on his web page, but it's scattered under various models of fridges and i made some misreads.  Also actually missed the main install guide that would have been hugely helpful.... didn't find that untill this morning.

Anyway, it seems like a beautifully simple device, nicely executed, and I feel like it's something to recommend.
 

blw2

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I paid a little closer attention to my fridge this past weekend.  First time I really watched it closely since installing this controller....

It seemed that my fridge shut off quit a bit while driving.  Seems to have tripped on an over-temp. 
Nothing overly rough..... and this is Florida so it's flat.
Is it normal for these fridges to over heat so much while driving?
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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Not in the terrain you describe, but it doesn't take that much to send the temperature up if the lean is in the right (wrong?) direction. However, I wonder if you have poor air flow over the rear of fridge (the cooling unit), possible even air turbulence over the roof vent that effectively stops the normal air flow (in the side and up & out the top). This is not exactly a common problem, but not rare either. Sometimes the combination of things on the roof cause the air rushing by at highway speeds to push into the roof vent and stop the flow.  Consider mounting a 12v fan in the cooling unit compartment to assist with the air movement. You can use a separate thermostat for the fan, or use the ARP auxiliary relay capability to turn it on/off.

http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A10-2618VP-FridgeCool-Volt-Exhaust/dp/B002N5YDG2
Cooling unit fans
 
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