Atwood level legs possible controller issue

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Members shared troubleshooting steps for an Atwood Level Legs system that suddenly stopped engaging after a short move, with the park/neutral light failing to illuminate. Initial checks included verifying fuses, cycling the engine and parking brake, and attempting manual operation of the jacks. Suggestions from experienced RVers included performing a full system reset per the troubleshooting manual, inspecting the gearbox output shaft and drive/shear pins, and using a jump starter battery... More...

garyb1st

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Jacks not engaging. The Atwood level legs system requires the Engine running light, the Park brake engaged light and the Park/neutral light all illuninate before the system will engage.

We moved from one site to another this morning. The jacks worked fine as we prepared to leave. The site we moved to was maybe 1000 feet away. When we got their the jacks would not engage. The Park/neutral light would not illuminate.

Tried several fixes, nothing worked. Turn off the engine, disengage parking brake, started engine and reengage parking brake. We tried that several times. One of two things would happen. Either none of the lights would come on or just the Park/neutral light would fail to come on.

I checked the fuses and all are good. If it's a wiring or ground issue, I'll need to access the control unit.

Anyone every had this issue and have some suggestions?
 
Yes. Considerable experience.

I believe there is a way to completely reset the whole system in the LevelLegs Trouble Shooting manual. Attached.
 

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  • Atwood LevelLegs.pdf
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Yes. Considerable experience.

I believe there is a way to completely reset the whole system in the LevelLegs Trouble Shooting manual. Attached.
I was hoping you'd see the post. I know you've had your share of issues so figured you may have encountered this problem.

Thanks for the link. I'll try a few things tomorrow. I tried to manually lower one of the legs today. It's possible I didn't try long enough but it seemed like the pad was not moving after spinning it with a drill. I'll give it another go tomorrow. Parked on gravel so not looking forward to getting under the RV again.
 
If you spin the motor and the leg doesn't move it's probably the gearbox output shaft. That's one of the few parts that are still available.

Here's the link: Leisure Coachworks 7.5K And 10K Atwood Leveler Pinion Shaft Replacement

The other thing that breaks often is the drive/shear pins. They have those as well. $9.00 each.

I use a JNC jump starter battery to run the motors. I use a couple of small construction staples to make the connections.
 
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Probably didn't spin the shaft enough times. I couldn't remember which way to so tried both clockwise and counter clockwise. I'm pretty sure it's moving since I could hear it ratcheting one way. I'll try again later and see what happens.
 
Found a plug under the dash that is disconnected. Can't see where it would go. The plug is labeled SW-THROT-ADJ.

Is this normal on a gas coach or has it become disconnected and I need to find the receptacle?
 
I did a search on the plug label and found this:
The label SW-THROT-ADJ on an RV plug or connector likely refers to a connection point for a Switch used for Throttle Adjustment, which is typically related to an external generator or an engine idle control feature.
This is a specific control circuit connection, not a standard AC power connection (like a 30 amp or 50 amp shore power plug).
  • SW: Stands for Switch
  • THROT: Stands for Throttle
  • ADJ: Stands for Adjustment
This type of plug is often found in the wiring harness of an RV that is designed to connect to an auxiliary power unit (APU) or an external generator that has a remote start/stop and idle control feature. The plug allows an external switch to adjust the generator's or vehicle's engine speed (throttle) for various power demands or noise reduction.
 
I think it's likely part of a wiring harness used in multiple vehicles and has no application in my Pace Arrow.
 
I've narrowed it down to the parking brake switch. Actually I'm guessing but have tried a number of other possible fixes that have not worked.
 
I was going to ask you about 'clutching'. If it does that the gearbox and drive is good.

Unfortunately when I picked up my iPad this morning it went completely black, what they call "The black screen of death". The last time an iPad died on me Apple replaced it for the cost of a battery, and then replaced the replacement 3 weeks later when it died too. The iPad was the only thing I use to access this site.

I have another tablet but it's an Amazon Fire Tablet and doesn't play nice with either PCs or Apples. I don't use it often.

My LevelLegs control board let out the magic smoke. The repaired jack works likes new but now the electronics is toast. If not for bad luck.....

BUT! I just found a treasure trove of LevelLegs parts on eBay! Including this gem! The have all sorts of previously hard to replace items. Check 'em out.

 
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I found that one too. 'Something' melted the pins off the control board. The safe thing would be to send all three parts to be tested and repaired. Potential cost around 1300. Or replace the whole system with one that doesn't break every third time it's used.

Quite a quandary eh?
 
Is there a way to test the control board and keypad? I've got a test light and volt meter. I just don't know how to go about it.
 
Today I pulled the trigger to have a new leveling system installed. I’m keeping the jacks so I can sell them on eBay. I’ll probably trash the electronic stuff unless someone here wants them. They’re not huge so skipping won’t be bad.
 
If it doesn't rain, a mobile RV tech will come tomorrow morning. Depending on what he says, I may be interested in the electronics.
 
It's been one issue after another. Yesterday morning as we were checking the toads wiring, the turn signals didn't work. Since I had been poking around under the dash trying to find something that caused the levelegs to stop working, I was concerned I may have accidentally disconnected a wire.

Found two things hanging from wires. They didn't fit together and I've never seen them so have no idea what they are for. In any event, with no turn signals, we were very careful to make sure we had as few lane changes to make as we drove a busy Interstate 75 mile to a casino where we got fuel and ultimately spent the night.

After I found a file that identified the fuse location for the turn signals, I replaced the fuse. Voila, turn signals working again. But the real question mark is what if anything that fuse had to do with the Jacks that are now working again as we discovered while setting up in Q.

So maybe it's another intermittent issue with the levelegs or as hard as it is for me to believe, the fuse for the turn signals is somehow connected. Guess we'll find out when we pack up and head to our next site.
 
When it comes to how RVs are thrown together nothing surprises me anymore. Call it a stroke of good luck and enjoy your RV. Without putting blocks under the tires! :D
 
We'll find out if the Jacks still work when we leave. In the meantime, I'm not messing with them. There is another possibility that may explain the fix. A BTS1 (brake transmission shift) relay in the fuse box may have been the culprit. I pulled it and put it back in. If I never find out, I'm OK with that, as long as it works. For now the priority is getting the water pump to work.
 
I once pulled the rig into a campsite and my electric steps refused to function. We were in transit and had a schedule so we just got the step ladder out and climbed in and out. The next day, when we started to leave I pulled up next to the trash can to unload our trash. Opened the RV door and out came the steps. That was like 8 years ago and they still work just fine.
 

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