RREngr
Well-known member
Does the Banks System help that much? Also does it help with the MPG. My MH is a 35' class A with a gas V10 engine.
Rich & Kay
Rich & Kay
Banks Power System
- Thread starter RREngr
- Start date
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Tom
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Rich,
Use the Advanced search link above to search on "banks" (with or without the quotes) to find prior discussions on this subject.
Use the Advanced search link above to search on "banks" (with or without the quotes) to find prior discussions on this subject.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The Banks system is pretty good but newer engines and transmissions already incorporate some of its improvements, so older rigs benefit more than newer ones. I would NOT expect an mpg improvement in any rig that already has computer controlled fuel injection, as your V10 has.
You need to get a graph from Banks for your specific year of engine. They will provide one if it is not alreay on their website. It will show the horsepower and torque improvement vs engine RPMs. You are interested in RPMS below about 3900 and preferably below 3000. Any torque or horsepower gains above those RPMs are not very useful to you and not worth paying for.
If you are looking for a payback in fuel economy to offset the hefty price of the Banks, you can forget about it. As they say, "It ain't happening". If you are looking for improved performance, contact Banks for the horsepower & torque graph.
You need to get a graph from Banks for your specific year of engine. They will provide one if it is not alreay on their website. It will show the horsepower and torque improvement vs engine RPMs. You are interested in RPMS below about 3900 and preferably below 3000. Any torque or horsepower gains above those RPMs are not very useful to you and not worth paying for.
If you are looking for a payback in fuel economy to offset the hefty price of the Banks, you can forget about it. As they say, "It ain't happening". If you are looking for improved performance, contact Banks for the horsepower & torque graph.
MikenJulie
Member
I had a 1995 WInnebago Vectra before the '07
Ford chassis, 460, 5.13 gears. Very choked back system, 195 degree thermostat had the temps up and the fan clutch engaged, robbing power and speed far more than neccessary. Many hills spent in 2nd gear, screaming along at 40-45mph. I decided to open up the intake to the air box, ran a K&N filter, half-shafted the dual intake throttle body, sharpened leading and trailing edges of the butterflies, msd ignition, balanced Mr. Gasket 180 degree high flow thermostat, a better balanced fan clutch, and opened up the exhaust with 3" ID pipe right from the y-pipe, a 3" ID resonator under the front to keep cab noise down, a Dynomax 3" ID in, 3 1/2" out, finishing up with a 3 1/2" mandrel-bent pipe in the factory location, and a 5" stainless Magnaflow tip for a clean look. Results, were beyond expectations. I pretty much gained a full gearon hills, where I'd lumber along in 2nd gear over 4,000rpm I was now in drive running 60mph. Passing wasn't a 2 mile long planned procedure anymore, I even passed my share of Duramax's pulling 5th wheels ;D Cooling was greatly improved too, even long hills to the floor for 4-5 minutes, the guage never went over 1/2 and no power robbing fan clutch until I backed off and was coasting at whatever desired speed.
It worked awesome for my old gasser, there's no standard gain that applies to all vehicles. I do believe it will be noticable, the stainless hardware will be good for many years, I can't comment on mpg though. I know for a fact I gained considerable mpg just for the fact I wasn't screaming with the throttle pegged anymore, this may also apply in your application. I've also found out dyno/bench-tested complete kits work better than custom trial-error, I would do the Banks IMO.
Ford chassis, 460, 5.13 gears. Very choked back system, 195 degree thermostat had the temps up and the fan clutch engaged, robbing power and speed far more than neccessary. Many hills spent in 2nd gear, screaming along at 40-45mph. I decided to open up the intake to the air box, ran a K&N filter, half-shafted the dual intake throttle body, sharpened leading and trailing edges of the butterflies, msd ignition, balanced Mr. Gasket 180 degree high flow thermostat, a better balanced fan clutch, and opened up the exhaust with 3" ID pipe right from the y-pipe, a 3" ID resonator under the front to keep cab noise down, a Dynomax 3" ID in, 3 1/2" out, finishing up with a 3 1/2" mandrel-bent pipe in the factory location, and a 5" stainless Magnaflow tip for a clean look. Results, were beyond expectations. I pretty much gained a full gearon hills, where I'd lumber along in 2nd gear over 4,000rpm I was now in drive running 60mph. Passing wasn't a 2 mile long planned procedure anymore, I even passed my share of Duramax's pulling 5th wheels ;D Cooling was greatly improved too, even long hills to the floor for 4-5 minutes, the guage never went over 1/2 and no power robbing fan clutch until I backed off and was coasting at whatever desired speed.
It worked awesome for my old gasser, there's no standard gain that applies to all vehicles. I do believe it will be noticable, the stainless hardware will be good for many years, I can't comment on mpg though. I know for a fact I gained considerable mpg just for the fact I wasn't screaming with the throttle pegged anymore, this may also apply in your application. I've also found out dyno/bench-tested complete kits work better than custom trial-error, I would do the Banks IMO.
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MikenJulie
Member
One thing a also did that made the driving 1,000 times better, I took off the 235/85-16 Michelin XPS ribs (they were maxed out on this thing, sloppy handling, constant correction needed) and put on 225/70-19.5 14ply Michelins. Handling was superb, greatly reduced rolling resistance even with increased tire/wheel weight. I'm pretty sure all the class A units these days come with 19.5's anyway though.
Luca1369
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MikenJulie said:
Was this a replacement drop-in filter or was it some sort of new bolt-on unit?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
MikenJulie
Member
It was a drop-in unit, the style of air box Ford used at the time had a very large opening to the air box, and twin intake hoses to the dual intake TB. The hose leading to the box was at least 6" round, both ends choked back to probly 4.5", not by design but moulding imperfections. I could of done a large intake system like the light truck kit but it's competely open to the hot air in the chassis, I wanted to keep the air drawn from down below the rad where the air flow would be the coolest. I did also wrap the intake with a heat reflectant tape to help keep the air cool as possible. Probly not really worth the time and effort to do so but I figures hey, why go 99% when I had the time to do 100%.
Luca1369
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Thanks for that quick reply.
I'm thinking of making some mods to my 460 and your post gave me all sorts of ideas. I have a 1990 Southwind, and I'm not sure if the air intakce came from the factory or not. The intake had a "Y" made of PVC on the passenger side above the radiator under the hood, it's about 3" or so in diameter. Leading back to the air cleaner on the 460 is a now-shredded piece of what appears to once have been dryer exhaust hose, you know the stuff, wire wound, thin covering, very flexible. I can't believe it would be a factory install but what do I know. Anyway, as I said, your post gave me some great ideas. Thanks.
Steve
I'm thinking of making some mods to my 460 and your post gave me all sorts of ideas. I have a 1990 Southwind, and I'm not sure if the air intakce came from the factory or not. The intake had a "Y" made of PVC on the passenger side above the radiator under the hood, it's about 3" or so in diameter. Leading back to the air cleaner on the 460 is a now-shredded piece of what appears to once have been dryer exhaust hose, you know the stuff, wire wound, thin covering, very flexible. I can't believe it would be a factory install but what do I know. Anyway, as I said, your post gave me some great ideas. Thanks.
Steve
MikenJulie
Member
Glad I could plant some mod ideas in your noggin Steve! ;D 
Sounds like your intake hardware is well worn and in need of replacement, any chance of a pic or two so I/we could see what it looks like? If the intake hose is ruptured, the heat these things produce can really effect performance. My '95 had a flexible plastic coupler where it attached to the air box, if I disconnected it, intake noise was rediculous and power suffered, even though doing this provided less restriction and increased air flow to the motor. If your intake has holes I would suspect power and mpg loss.
DISCLAIMER- just relaying hands on experience eh. I apologize if this discussion leads away from the OP's purpose of the thread. Thanks everyone!
Mike.
Sounds like your intake hardware is well worn and in need of replacement, any chance of a pic or two so I/we could see what it looks like? If the intake hose is ruptured, the heat these things produce can really effect performance. My '95 had a flexible plastic coupler where it attached to the air box, if I disconnected it, intake noise was rediculous and power suffered, even though doing this provided less restriction and increased air flow to the motor. If your intake has holes I would suspect power and mpg loss.DISCLAIMER- just relaying hands on experience eh. I apologize if this discussion leads away from the OP's purpose of the thread. Thanks everyone!
Mike.
MikenJulie
Member
Here's the stuff I used on the intake
http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=30
Thinking about your post a bit more, it sounds like we may of had the same intake, single hose to the air box, passenger side, splitting into a Y between the air box and throttle body. I know the intake hose was bigger on the Vectra though, probly updated for the later model years. Pretty sure engine output was the same from '90-'95 though. You could wrap your leaking hose in the heat wrap tape, with a zip tie evet 6" to help keep it's form..........
http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=30
Thinking about your post a bit more, it sounds like we may of had the same intake, single hose to the air box, passenger side, splitting into a Y between the air box and throttle body. I know the intake hose was bigger on the Vectra though, probly updated for the later model years. Pretty sure engine output was the same from '90-'95 though. You could wrap your leaking hose in the heat wrap tape, with a zip tie evet 6" to help keep it's form..........
Luca1369
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Thanks Mike,
I'll try to get some photos to you but I won't be home for at least two more days. To everyone else, I apologize for my part in getting this off topic somewhat.
Steve
I'll try to get some photos to you but I won't be home for at least two more days. To everyone else, I apologize for my part in getting this off topic somewhat.
Steve
