Battery Compartmet Tray Paint or Bed Linner and Replacement Batteries

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kenb1023

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Joined
May 10, 2012
Posts
785
Location
Edgewood NM
One of the coach batteries boiled over and the tray is covered in acid powder.  I have rinsed it out twice with a strong baking soda solution and rinsed it completely.  Before I get the new batteries I would like to know what would be best to recoat the tray bottom.  I was thinking spray on Bed liner like for pickups but wanted to know if anyone has tried this or would paint be better? 
On a related note; I am thinking of getting EverStart RV or Die Hard RV/Marine batteries.  I have used both in my cars and trucks with good results but would like to know what people thought about their RV/Marine batteries.  I may ask this in a new post.
 
Bed liner paint should be OK just read the can for anything against it. You could request the msds from maker to make sure nothing to react with acid if problem happens again. The batteries on the forums they seem to prefer the golf cart style batteries do to heavy duty built components and longer life span.
 
I used the NAPA sold Bed Liner in my Battery compartment and was not satisfied with the coverage at the tiime of installation and even more disappointed now (approx 8months).  It is still corroding at the same places and lifting the Bed Liner. I was was very careful in my prep including a light acid bath followed up with  several cleanings with Acetone.

I am going to remove the Batteries again this Spring and prep it again but I think I am going to use either Rustoleum Flex Steel or Rustoleum Undercoating.  I am going to paint two pieces of angle iron with each when I get home and set them on the Dock for a couple of months.
 
I am thinking of snad blasting it.  Put on two coats of primer then do the bed liner material.  Maby that will work.  It is only the bottom plate that has issues.  The sides are great.
 
Conquest aka Robert said:
Bed liner paint should be OK just read the can for anything against it. You could request the msds from maker to make sure nothing to react with acid if problem happens again. The batteries on the forums they seem to prefer the golf cart style batteries do to heavy duty built components and longer life span.
Not sure if I have enough room for golf cart batteries.  Right now we only take it out twice a year for a week pluss each and a few weekends with the local Good Sam club.
 
I have been looking at doing my battery box so I can offer some tips and recommendations.
The most important thing is the surface has to be CLEAN. If you don?t get all the acid off the paint/ coating will blister and come off. There are numerous coatings out there that will work but I have narrowed it down to these two as probley the better choices.
First after you think you have the metal clean you need to treat it with a phosphate solution. This will remove all remaining rust and acid residue plus it etches the surface so the paint will stick better. You can go all in and find some epoxy primer but I think rustolem will do the job.
Randolph's Acid Proof Battery Box Paint is one of the better ones in the aircraft field and will hold up well on a RV.
POR-15 is another one that has a good reputation for use in battery boxes. You can find it and the phosphate rinse at.
http://www.por15.com/
I think the bed liner coatings will work but I don?t know how long they will last. You will still need to use the phosphate rinse to be sure the metal is clean.
Bill


 
Bill,

As you are saying, the number one thing is that the surface has to be clean.  I essentially followed your path 4 years ago but used the bedliner.  NO problems to date and the batteries are also clean as I changed the battery caps to battery miser ones, also know as water miser caps.

Just a little positive comment as to the required cleanliness.
 
Jim,
You are right. I added the phosphate rinse to beshure the surface will give the best results holding the coating. By the way you can use this rinse to prep alumanium and outher had to paint materials. see the POR web site for more info.
Bill
 
After cleaning our batt compartment and painting it with primer/Rustoleum, I purchased a HD tupperware like container and cut the sides down to about 3" and placed it in the compartment.  It's been in there over 3 years w/o problems...just a thought.
 
WILDEBILL308 said:
Jim,
You are right. I added the phosphate rinse to beshure the surface will give the best results holding the coating. By the way you can use this rinse to prep alumanium and outher had to paint materials. see the POR web site for more info.
Bill
Are you refering the the Metal Prep & Ready Zinc Phosphate?
 
Harveyj said:
After cleaning our batt compartment and painting it with primer/Rustoleum, I purchased a HD tupperware like container and cut the sides down to about 3" and placed it in the compartment.  It's been in there over 3 years w/o problems...just a thought.
Sort of like a make shift Plastic battery tray?  Godd idea.  Did you provide for drainage?
 
kenb1023 said:
Sort of like a make shift Plastic battery tray?  Godd idea.  Did you provide for drainage?

I had lead acid batteries in a past coach and the tray was in a similar condition as the OP's. After through cleaning, I opted to fiberglass the tray and then re-drill the drain holes. Looked brand new when I sold that coach years later.
 
Yes....I did drill 4 drain holes right above openings in the frame.  When I remove the batteries every winter, I clean out the dust etc. that collects in the tray.  It turned out to be a great fix for little $$
 
I like the Por 15 fix personally because of the actual chemical/physical bond to the metal. I don't trust coatings that may not totally bond like the bedliner, fiberglass or even the plastic tray. If good maintenance practices are not scrupulously followed, rust and deterioration can continue underneath without being noticed. Just my way of thinking.

Ken
 
I'd apply some Chem Prime or a coat of self etching primer after a couple of good washings with baking soda. :)
 
Well this is the rout I decided to take.

Sand Blast rusted areas and remove old paint
Metal Prep & Ready Zinc Phosphate
Rust-Oleum Professional Primer 2 Coats
Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Black Enamel 2 Coats
Rust-Oleum Truck Bed Coating 2 coats
All I need now is warm weather.
This should do it I think
 

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