Battery Set Up

[Mg_sc]

Hey all so I'm super new to all this and trying to figure it all out still.
I have a 5th wheel trailer and I'm wanting to know what is a safe set up for the batteries

Here's a picture of what is currently going on but its definitely not safe. What connectors and covers are recommended?

 

[Arch Hoagland]

A couple more pictures taken from a few feet back would help.  Can't say that this looks like the original hookup.

Year, make and model of your fifth wheel would help too

 

[SpencerPJ]

I agree with Arch, need more pictures, that looks like an 'add on' for something.

If that black and white wire is 'ALL' you have coming to the battery for your whole 5r;  you do, or you will, have more problems if you don't get that fixed correctly.

 

[John From Detroit]

I too want to see more pictures. and I will add that's not much battery...

If that is romex wire I'd run the positive wire to a fuse block and use automotive starter cable from teh fuse to the battrety on the positive side.

On the negative side I'd use automotive cabler to chassis ground (4ga starter/battery cables)

YOu can use "Battery connectors or ring (Lugs with ah ole in em Depending on which post on the batttery.. I'd go with ther Ring type and replace the single Group 24 with a pair of GC-2 if they can be fit.

 

[Mg_sc]

A couple more pictures taken from a few feet back would help.  Can't say that this looks like the original hookup.

Year, make and model of your fifth wheel would help too

I'll have to take more pics for you later, but this is where the wiring comes out from under the bench seat. I don't think this is the original set up. I acquired this for very cheap from a friend and I know they didn't have much knowledge about travel trailers and RVs either.
It's a 1993 Fleetwood prowler

I have pics of the converter, which is under the stove area, and the fuse box which is under the seating area where these wires for the batter are running from.

They also left behind another battery and a low watt inverter.

 

[Mg_sc]

If that black and white wire is 'ALL' you have coming to the battery for your whole 5r;  you do, or you will, have more problems if you don't get that fixed correctly.

Yeah that's all that runs to the battery from the converter and fuse box.
What would fixing it correctly look like?

 

[Mg_sc]

I too want to see more pictures. and I will add that's not much battery...

If that is romex wire I'd run the positive wire to a fuse block and use automotive starter cable from teh fuse to the battrety on the positive side.

On the negative side I'd use automotive cabler to chassis ground (4ga starter/battery cables)

YOu can use "Battery connectors or ring (Lugs with ah ole in em Depending on which post on the batttery.. I'd go with ther Ring type and replace the single Group 24 with a pair of GC-2 if they can be fit.

There is one more battery but it's not hooked up and I'm not sure where to start.
Would I find all these parts at an autoparts store? I will be passing by a Walmart today I could also check there

 

[SpencerPJ]

Yeah that's all that runs to the battery from the converter and fuse box.
What would fixing it correctly look like?

Well, It all depends on what you are powering inside the 5r, and what type of converter etc.  I am not the one to answer all these questions, there are others that are geniuses with electric. I just know my wire coming to my single battery on a 20 ft travel trailer, the connections are the size of car battery wires. 

 

[Arch Hoagland]

I can't help either, too many unknowns. I'd suggest finding a local person familiar with RV's.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

First, that battery should NOT be inside the RV living area. It requires venting to the outside because charging releases hydrogen gas and bubbles of acid along with it.  Second, the battery needs to be tied down in some fashion as well, so it doesn't jump around when the trailer goes over potholes or RR tracks or maneuvers sharply.  Third, the wires to the converter/charger need to be large enough in wire gauge to handle the current flow, probably at least 10 gauge (30 amps) but more likely 6 or 4 gauge.  Battery cables, available in auto stores, are what us typically used and they start at about 4 gauge. Smaller number wire gauge is a larger diameter wire.

This is not particularly an RV wire/battery problem - it would be the same in a car or boat.

 

[Mg_sc]

Well, It all depends on what you are powering inside the 5r, and what type of converter etc.  I am not the one to answer all these questions, there are others that are geniuses with electric. I just know my wire coming to my single battery on a 20 ft travel trailer, the connections are the size of car battery wires.

Plan on powering lights, water pump, simple 12v outlet stuff, maybe eventually a refrigerator but I might opt for a temp cooler that has ac/dc plug ins
Heres the pic of the converter and fuse box

 

[AStravelers]

On your last picture of the 12V DC fuse panel....The heavy red wire and there should be a heavy black wire as well, those two heavy wires should go to the original location in the trailer where the batteries were from the factory.  Basically connect the heavy black and red wires to the battery(s). 

I get the impression from your questions that you have no experience with RV electrical systems, and may not have much experience with 120V household electrical systems.  I may be best to have a mobile RV Tech come out and spend 3-4 hours wiring up your system. 

Here is a link to some fairly detailed info about RV electrical systems and batteries: 
http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm
http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volta.htm

The above may help you understand the operation of RV elect system and what you will need for something like power even a small electric fridge from your batteries.  You will need MORE than a single battery to power any elect fridge.

There is also technical info available in the library section of this forum as well.

 

[SpencerPJ]

Well, I would guess that when this was originally rewired, it worked?  My question is: If you have your front battery charged, by a regular car charger, and then hook up the wires as they are, do the inside lights work?  water pump?  anything work?

Let's keep that extra battery and inverter out of the mix for now.  It could have been just a shady set-up that someone hooked up to have a separate battery / inverter for a 115vac TV.

 

[grashley]

Allow me to share how MY FW is wired.

The battery compartment is in the right front corner of the camper, right behind the FW overhang (room for two, but I have one).  There are several black and red wires attached to the battery.  This is OUTSIDE the living area, and well vented.

The Power Center is located INSIDE the FW, just inside the door. 

The hot wires on the battery go to:
Power Center fuses supply post.
Break away brakes switch with in line fuse.
Landing jacks, slides and rear stabilizers with in line fuses.
7 wire connector to truck for battery charging from truck while towing.

The Converter is directly behind the Power Center.
The converter output is connected to the Power Center 12V fuse supply post, which is connected to the battery.

The FW chassis is the primary ground for all 12V wiring.  The battery NEG is attached to the chassis. 
I believe there is a wire from the battery to the Power Center 12V fuse supply post, as well.

A CONverter (which you have) takes 120VAC and converts it to 12VDC to charge batteries and run 12V stuff.
An INVerter, which you may or may not have, takes 12VDC and INVerts it to 120VAC for TV or phone chargers when other 120VAC is not available.

 

[Mg_sc]

On your last picture of the 12V DC fuse panel....The heavy red wire and there should be a heavy black wire as well, those two heavy wires should go to the original location in the trailer where the batteries were from the factory.  Basically connect the heavy black and red wires to the battery(s). 

I get the impression from your questions that you have no experience with RV electrical systems, and may not have much experience with 120V household electrical systems.  I may be best to have a mobile RV Tech come out and spend 3-4 hours wiring up your system. 

Here is a link to some fairly detailed info about RV electrical systems and batteries: 
http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm
http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volta.htm

The above may help you understand the operation of RV elect system and what you will need for something like power even a small electric fridge from your batteries.  You will need MORE than a single battery to power any elect fridge.

There is also technical info available in the library section of this forum as well.

I just looked under the seating area where the fuse box is, they basically rewired it for the water pump one thick yellow wire leads to the battery inside the 5w.

There is another battery in the 5w but it wasn't hooked up when we got it
Yes I am extremely new to all of this. I've had this Prowler for only 1 month

I just got replacement keys for the outside compartments and found the area where the batteries should live along with wires for cable hook ups.

I've read a few files in the library about running the batteries parallel which is what I plan to do. But I want to figure out how to get all the wiring figured out and safe first.
I'll check out those links, thanks!

 

[Mg_sc]

Well, I would guess that when this was originally rewired, it worked?  My question is: If you have your front battery charged, by a regular car charger, and then hook up the wires as they are, do the inside lights work?  water pump?  anything work?

Let's keep that extra battery and inverter out of the mix for now.  It could have been just a shady set-up that someone hooked up to have a separate battery / inverter for a 115vac TV.

They wired it just to have the water pump running. There are no lights inside, the PO was just using AAA battery operated lights. I plan to get some new hardware for them cause they took it all off and duct taped over the open holes...
The water pump runs automatically.

I just got replacement keys for the outside compartments and found the area where the batteries should live along with wires for cable hook ups. I'll have to check if its charged, it probably isn't. I'll charge it and get back to you!!
So I'll have to rewire the water pump back to the original battery

 

[Mg_sc]

The battery compartment is in the right front corner of the camper, right behind the FW overhang (room for two, but I have one).  There are several black and red wires attached to the battery.  This is OUTSIDE the living area, and well vented.

The Power Center is located INSIDE the FW, just inside the door. 

The hot wires on the battery go to:
Power Center fuses supply post.
Break away brakes switch with in line fuse.
Landing jacks, slides and rear stabilizers with in line fuses.
7 wire connector to truck for battery charging from truck while towing.

The Converter is directly behind the Power Center.
The converter output is connected to the Power Center 12V fuse supply post, which is connected to the battery.

The FW chassis is the primary ground for all 12V wiring.  The battery NEG is attached to the chassis. 
I believe there is a wire from the battery to the Power Center 12V fuse supply post, as well.

A CONverter (which you have) takes 120VAC and converts it to 12VDC to charge batteries and run 12V stuff.
An INVerter, which you may or may not have, takes 12VDC and INVerts it to 120VAC for TV or phone chargers when other 120VAC is not available.

I just got replacement keys for the outside compartments, so  I just found my battery in that same spot.
Okay I'll have to show all this to my bf he'll understand it all and make sure ours looks similar.
The PO did leave an inverter in it as well, its a small 500W

 

[Mg_sc]

Okay, so I just eliminated that original battery I shared with y'all. It was rigged directly to the water pump and nothing else. So I'll be moving all the batteries to the original spot they should live in their compartment outside the RV. I got them checked at an auto parts store, and having them charge the batteries for me also.

In their compartment, its set up for two batteries to sit, and a set of wires for each. I'll take a pic of it all later today. I was reading up on batteries and I want to run them parallel, but if its already set up with 2 sets of connectors for the batteries, would it work the same?

Also I want to add, I'll be adding a small fridge to the 5w but only running it when hooked up to shore power. So really all that would be running in the 5w is the water pump, range fan, lights, TV, phone chargers, coffee maker, blender.

I do need some DETAILED help with:
*battery terminals(there were 3 I saw at the store: (1)lead free- is that necessary??, (2) brass, (3) 6-1 AWG terminal<this one looked good lol) Should I also get safety switch battery disconnect if so in-line or top mount?
*lugs or vinyl rings - which is better and what gauge?

I'll post pics so y'all know what I'm referring to cause one battery has side terminals without posts, and another battery has the top terminal post and no threaded terminal.

 

[grashley]

Pictures will help.  To run parallel (recommended), simply place a cable between the two POS terminals and between the two NEG terminals.  Type really does not matter.  Use at least 6 gauge wire, as short as possible (within reason)  Connect everything else to either battery, keeping POS and NEG on the proper terminal.  With the jumper cables, connections at battery A are identical to connections at battery B.

A battery disconnect is a great piece to add.  Pick one that fits your needs.  It makes it much easier to COMPLETELY disconnect the battery from the camper.

Please tell us more about your batteries.  Clearly, they are not identical.  Are they similar size, type and age?  As I understand, dissimilar batteries will work fine, but will not last as long as a matched pair.  Were I in your situation, I would use what I got until I need to replace them, then get a pair of 6V golf cart true deep cycle batteries and wire in series to get 12V.

There is probably a reason the camper was rewired as it was.  Expect that you will find problems when you reconnect correctly.  You can probably draw a fairly accurate schematic based in my previous post.  Maybe a shorted wire??

 

[Gizmo100]

I would also recommend a a battery cutoff ...But see if you can get one that acts as a circuit breaker as well.