Best Age Range for a First Motorhome Purchase

[Ken Wever]

Howdy! Quick question about motorhome vintages as we contemplate our first RV purchase. My wife and I have talked for years about getting an RV and seeing the country, but it wasn't terribly practical or financially logical when I was working. Now that we are retired, we're eager to give it a go and see if we like as much as we hope. However, given the cost of these units, I want to manage the downside risk if for whatever reason we decide after 2 or 3 years that it's just not for us.

Is there a certain age, either in years or mileage, when repair and refurbishment costs typically hit an inflection point?

And then a similar question, was there a certain point in time when MH systems complexity (and presumably repair costs) hit a step change? I'm thinking in terms of perhaps emission controls, or electronic systems, etc. that when they fail are typically very expensive, since you are faced with replacing major components or entire systems - they can't be easily repaired. (think about modern washers and dryers, for example)

Just for reference, we're thinking at this point of a price range around $150 to $175k. That would seem to enable a Newmar or Tiffin in the 2016 to 2018 vintage, based on what we see online. Just not sure if that is the equivalent of buying a home with the original 20 year old roof and HVAC system, and we would need to be prepared to begin writing major checks during those initial years of ownership.

Thanks in advance!

Ken

 

[Brad Buchanan]

We bought a 2004 Itasca a couple of years ago.

I have serviced or repaired many systems on this rig including the a/c, heating and a complete replacement of the charger/inverter.

On the other hand this rig has a 350hp Cummins with no def or dpf.

Solid cherry cabinetry throughout and as a woodworker I appreciate the workmanship.

We have looked at some new class A units and while very luxurious were equipped with basically plastic interiors

If you don't mind turning a wrench there are some great values out there.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

Is there a certain age, either in years or mileage, when repair and refurbishment costs typically hit an inflection point?

It starts the day you buy it and ends the day you sell it. The age/miles sweet spot works with cars but not RV's The difference with more/less age and miles is giving your money to a dealer or a mechanic. You can save a lot of money doing work yourself but it's a commitment.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Tough to give a general answer for that. Much depends on the initial design & build characteristics and also on the care it has received. But here's a few generalities:

• The MSRP price of a new one is pure fiction. Even top tier models discount in the 20% range and others may be 30% or more. So based on MSRP, the depreciation is well over 30% as you drive off the sales lot. Maybe as much as 50%
• Based on the typical selling price of a new one, the depreciation in the first 1-3 years is still quite steep. Then it levels off to somewhere around 6% a year until around age 10. But the 6% is subject to influence by factors such as popularity or rarity of a brand, model, floor plan or even length. And that influence can be plus or minus. Even regional preferences can make a big difference in pricing.
• After 10-12 years pricing flattens out and condition is the only significant factor.
• Gas chassis motorhomes took a big step forward in 2002 (Workhorse chassis) and 2006 (Ford chassis), so there is a bit of a price cliff there that reflects capability. But then Workhorse went out of business in 2008 and parts & service eventually became problematic, reversing the value trend.
• Diesel pusher motorhomes have their own price cliffs, with the transition from mechanical to electronic controls and integrated turbo chargers and exhaust/engine brakes. That happened around 1999-2000 and was complete by 2003-2004. But shortly after, EPA mandates on diesel emissions started to reverse the positive trend in 2007 and hit it hard in 2010 with the DEF mandate. So that period from 2003-2006 is considered highly desirable among the gear-heads.
• Depending on your preferences, the availability of full body paint (FBP) and multiple slides is a big factor. Most buyers love them but some are adamantly opposed. Rvs lacking FBP and multiple slides are generally significantly lower priced.
• Maintaining and repairing diesel chassis is noticeably more expensive than gas chassis.
• DIY vs dealer service is another major factor. You should probably avoid any rig that needs TLC or even is just behind on routine maintenance if you aren't handy enough to do a lot of DIY.

 

[Kirk]

. So based on MSRP, the depreciation is well over 30% as you drive off the sales lot. Maybe as much as 50%%

I agree with that as in my observations, no two people ever pay the same price for the same make & model, even when buying new. It is pretty safe to say that an RV bought new will be worth about 60-70% of MSRP after one year, but RV dealers are not required to show a real MSRP published by the manufacturer the way that automobile dealers are so few, if any ever show the buyer a real one and many dealers will display a document that they call the MSRP, when in fact that document was printed up in their office and prices shown are inflated and frequently dealer add-on items are also there as though from the factory. If you are a good bargainer, and buying from an honest dealership, then the first year's depreciation from the purchase price is likely to be about 10-15%.

Whether buying new or used, it is very difficult to price compare between dealers. Dealers of the same brand of new RVs are typically much farter apart than are new automobile dealerships and even if you can find two, it is extremely rare for you to find the same make/model configured the same on different dealer lots. For used RVs it is best to study prices on the internet advertising sites as well as the local dealerships in order to get a feel for what is reasonable and if you have no experience with RVs it is a good thing to find someone who has experience to go with you and help to figure out which are better choices. Very often the one that looks nicest is hiding problems that make it the worst choice to own. Since you are not sure that you will like the RV style of travel, you would be wise to rent an RV for a trip of a week or two first, just so that you have some feel for what it is like. We prefer RV travel, but it is far different from automobile travel, and many people find that they don't care for it. No matter what you buy to start, if you do not keep it for very long you will lose a significant amount of money to sell it.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

You can probably buy a clean, older, gas chassis motorhome and use it for several months or a year and then re-sell it privately for about what you have invested in it. There is some risk of an expensiv repair in that time period, but not too much if you shop widely. The buying & selling can be a nuisance but you gain a huge amount of experience so you know what features and amenities are important to you. An alternative is to rent a class A for 2-4 weeks and take a trip. Yes, it's expensive but buying the wrong $150k motorhome is also a very expensive mistake.

 

[Isaac-1]

There is no simple answer for this, a lot depends on the construction of the RV, and how it has been cared for and stored. Externally a coach with full body paint and either Aluminum or Fiberglass roof, will tend to be in much better cosmetic condition and have less chance of roof leaks than one with vinyl graphics and a EPDM or TPO membrane roof.

You also have to watch out for orphaned components, and automation systems, there are a lot of these out there on coaches built over the last 15-20 years, smart screens that operate everything inside the coach from the lights to the water pump, and when they die there are no replacement parts.

 

[TheBar]

As Gary and Isaac mentioned orphaned components is a problem in any Class A motorhome.

Because they are on a heavy truck chassis, like Workhorse, parts become difficult to find when they quit making them, and fewer were made so even used parts are not available. After 15 years parts start getting hard to find. Read this forum and you'll see the sad stories of people searching salvage yards to no avail.

I've had a Class A but I may be the only one to recommend a Class C. Barring accidents and moisture rot it may still be driving around when its 50 years old. One of our members, Judy B, had a Class C with over 250K miles and still going strong.

All the mechanical parts like the drivetrain, suspension, brakes, cab and dash parts, and windshields are standard Ford or Chevy van parts. I can get any of those parts for my 29 year old 1997 Ford Class C. In any small town in the USA. Plus any mechanic can work on it. And I'll still be able to get those parts when it's 40 years old because Ford is still making the same basic van. Plus all the parts and tires will be a fraction of the price of any Class A.

 

[Professor David]

Very good questions...enjoying comments. For 150 to 200K you should be able to find a very nice unit...as long as you take your time and do your research. A lot has to do with how well the rig was taken care of and the ownership history...not unlike buying a used car or even a house. Generally, older units are built better with better materials...the benefit being things may not break as frequently...possibly. Some have very strong opinions on such things as gas vs diesel and such. Lots of strong opinions on this. Pros and cons of both. Gas is more affordable and works for some. Diesel is great if the engine is powered sufficently for the rig weight. There are some diesel pushers that are under powered. Ride is better with diesel w the air suspension...though we have our gas rig dialed in with correct tire pressure and suspension upgrades. It really depends on how you will use the rig...months and months on the road vs shorter trips near home. As mentioned above regarding costs, much has to do with how handy you are and/or how much you actually want to work on the rig...or how much you are willing to pay out of pocket for someone to do the repairs/upkeep. It can be difficult and take time to find good people to work on your rig. Even brand new units can require repairs and upkeep, especially some units made during COVID. Some people have mentioned horror stories with warranty work with new units.

 

[PancakeBill]

I second the fancy control issues. The multiplex comntrols like in American Eagle all have to go back to ‘brains’ to determine what gets done, if that fails, I am not sure what the cost might be or availability. A wired switch is a $3 switch if it fails. I remember the features and benefits, the weight savings for multiplex, but the electronics of it always seemed worrisome 20 years down the road.

As to a sweet spot, right now I would say about 10 years old, before the Covid downturn, still in good shape. in an A, the Winnebago line is good, still good company, still have parts available etc. Tiffin another, but the sale to Thor, not sure how that will be for future available parts.

 

[Ken Wever]

Thank you to all - clearly a lot of accumulated knowledge here, I appreciate it!

One of the key takeaways I am getting is that for any RV you need to be prepared for stuff to break, become inop or just need some form of fixing. Doesn't really matter if it is 5 years or 25 years old, it's part of the deal, and you need to have a plan for how you'll deal with it - i.e. be prepared for DIY fixes when possible, or have a good repair facility nearby.

I do worry about systems or components that fail and there are no replacement parts available, so that underscores the importance of the manufacturer and how well they support their legacy units in the field. More research I can do there later as we begin actively looking.

We might try renting later this summer or fall, but I know we will make most of the mistakes in the book for the first several outings, and I don't want to prematurely dismiss the opportunity after an initial bad experience (or three or five ). Both of us camped throughout childhood with our parents and are pretty confident that we'll love it. It's just hard to take off my risk management hat even after I'm retired.

Also, this generally supports my initial thinking of looking in the 10 to 12 year old area, as we will have avoided the steepest part of the depreciation curve, but hopefully encounter minimal systems obsolescence. Again, more work to do and will come back with specific questions when we begin actively searching for a rig.

Parting question - is there a section of the forum, or another resource, where we could find a listing of contract inspectors to hire for a pre-purchase inspection? For airplanes, you would typically find someone who specializes in a given airframe (e.g. Bonanza), but for RVs I am guessing it is more of a generalist game. At any rate, where would I begin to look for such a person? We won't be actively shopping until later this year, and would like to find something well before next spring.

Thanks again to all, and look forward to becoming part of the RV community.

KW

 

[Kirk]

. Doesn't really matter if it is 5 years or 25 years old, it's part of the deal

While that is basically true, it is important to realize that as RVs get older they probably will need more repairs and maintenance and that it will probably cost more. But the most important factor in choosing a used RV is the condition and history of it. Low mileage is somewhat good but very low can mean that it sat around unused and that can be worse than a well-used and well-maintained RV with more miles. As you look at older RVs the history becomes more important.

I do worry about systems or components that fail and there are no replacement parts available, so that underscores the importance of the manufacturer

For the appliances that isn't usually a serious issue as they are mostly the same make and models in all RVs of any brand. In most cases there are only two or three manufacturers of the particular appliance and the service manuals for the majority can be downloaded, if you have the skills to repair them. If an appliance does need replaced, direct replacements are usually available, but expensive. Chassis parts can be an issue, if from Workhorse but most others are available. The body parts are typically unique and are seldom available for more than a few years after a model is no longer being built, no matter the manufacturer.

Parting question - is there a section of the forum, or another resource, where we could find a listing of contract inspectors to hire for a pre-purchase inspection?

RV Help is the site of one of the major inspector training schools (National RV Training Academy) and lists its graduates. The RV Training Institute also has a listing of their graduates.

 

[RV_Lee122]

What type? If its a gasser you'll want an 2016+ as those (Ford) were the first to get the 6-spd automatic. Beyond that I'd be looking for a cherry unit that has been owned by an older couple and maintained religiously, bonus points if stored indoors. You'll have better luck with a higher end unit from that era than something 2020+ IMO

When I say higher end = forged aluminum wheels, corian counter tops, ultra leather, porcelain toilet, real wood cabinets, full body paint etc.

 

[Isaac-1]

You can find an independent certified RV inspector using the inspector locator tool at the National RV Inspector Association NRVIA website NRVIA.org

Note expect to pay around $800-$1,200 or so depending on the local market for a proper RV inspection as they take about 6-9 man hours to complete, plus multiple man hours behind the scenes to look up potential recalls, complete the report, etc.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Diesel pushers? stay away from the Navistar Maxxforce engines. There were some built by TIffin? with the Cummins 5.0L V8 diesel which also had many problems (only built for a couple of years).

Best is anything with an inline 6 Cummins. Cat I think got out of the over the road market long ago enough that the vintages you are considering won't have the Cat engines.

 

[Professor David]

Renting is a very good idea. Definitely look into availability of chassis and even body parts for each manufacturer. In my experience, Winnebago is very good in this regard and they have made very solid units…if taken care of…like any other RV. There are several outfits renting class Cs, not sure about renting a class A but I have seen individuals renting out their class A. As Kirk writes above, house systems like refrigerators, toilets, microwaves, most, if not all, plumbing components, HVAC systems, slide components and such are readily available to swap out as needed…and generally not produced but the coach manufacturers. Any good RV tech can do this and if u are handy and inclined to it…there a ton of YouTube videos to take u threw the process likely with your specific unit if you buy a common unit. Also, there are several people on this forum who have really help me figure things out…saved my butt.

 

[Adventurous Traveler]

I've had three motorhomes that I bought used. Two were powered by the V10 Ford on the just-discontinued Ford F53 chassis, and the current diesel on a Freightliner Chassis with the well-respected Cummins 6.7 engine.

Almost from day one of RV'ing, some 18+ years ago, I aspired for a diesel pusher motorhome.
Finally got the current rig in my signature in 2019, used with 15000 miles on it. I always heard about how expensive diesel rigs can be to maintain, but I thought if I take care of it as I do with most of my things, I'll be fine.

For the 11-12 years that we owned the gas rigs, my repair costs were pretty minimal. Mice getting into the generator wires on the first rig, a Tiffin, costing me $1100, and an alignment on that rig, $500. That's it. On the second gasser, a one-year-old Georgetown, I put new steps on it for $400. I had a bad ceiling leak, and I discovered the factory had only hand-tightened the AC unit, which cost me $20 for an inch-pound torque wrench and a $4 roll of white duct tape. I was lucky to have a great handy brother who spent a day securing the "unsecured hot water tank" again from the factory, which probably would have cost $500-$1000 at a dealer to do. And, I put 6 new tires on it for $2200.

Now, the diesel rig that I always wanted, and that my wife and I put 45K miles on? Well, just last month, I spent over $25000 on repairs after the RV broke down on us in Raleigh, NC. Last summer, it was over $3600 for brake repair outside of Glacier NP. Four different dash AC units, about $600 each time they puked out. Summer of 2022 or 23, over $6000 for a new radiator. Fall of 2024, leaving for a trip to the Adirondack Mtns in NY, the alternator quits, another $1000. Six new tires in 2024: $3000. Towed by a heavy wrecker from my driveway because the serpentine belt went 50 miles from home, coming from a trip, the tow was covered by road service, repair over $2000 caused by a frozen AC that wore out the belt. These are just the highlights or lowlights, of the costs I have incurred. I have my local mechanic on speed dial! Now, I have very strong feelings about the venerable Freightliner Chassis and even worse Cummins Diesel engine. They are expensive to work on because of the nature of rear engine placement and the tight quarters mechanics have to work in. Most shops charge a higher labor rate to work on rear-engine diesel motorhomes than on tractor trailers, of Super C front engine diesel motorhomes. I hope you see where I'm going with explaining my experience owning a diesel motorhome.

My recommendation to the OP is that with a budget of $150-$175K, you can get yourself a really nice mid-2020's Tiffin Open Road gas motorhome. Some RV'ers prefer Newmar, but I always thought Tiffin had much nicer interior appointments. My favorite is the 36PA model that offers a beautiful interior, with more storage space than you'll probably need, and good-looking fiberglass and paint outside. Oh, that was the model we were shopping for before we came upon our DP.